officeaquachuck
Non-member
water changes absolutely seem to exacerbate the problem. keep tank covered, light off until clear.
Algae bloom
- Thread starter Jelandusn
- Start date
My water is treated with sodium bicarbonate at the treatment center. This changes the ph so that it is sky high. I was planning to use the ro unit to filter that out. My water is super soft even with the addition. Running it through the ro unit doesn’t change the hardness much. I think it brings the kh down by one but right out of the faucet it has a one gh and 2 kh. The color for the kh changes a little with one drop but it changes completely with two. Filtered the kh changes completely with one drop so the softness doesn’t change dramatically. I was planning to use ro water so that I start with water with a ph and hardness level that is more natural. I could add something to raise the hardness if needed. I figured using ro water would be a lot more stable than using tap water that’s treated and has an unnaturally high ph. It’s higher than my test goes so I don’t know how high it is. As it is, I’m adding water with a ph more than 1 point higher to the tank with every water change. I’m sure that’s a bit stressful. If I can filter it and make the chemistry the same with each water change that’d be better.
CrypticLifeStyle
Non-member
Honestly it appears you have typical Massachusetts water. The PH is raised because it extends the life of the pipes. Fairly common. I think your reading too much into things to keep those fish. Don't try to match some specific PH some website says your fish requires. Your fish are not in that need of specific exact care or that your too far from acceptable ranges. As far as FW goes, IMO conditioning your fish to our Massachusetts water within a acceptable realm is fine opposed to constant swings trying to perfect it by chasing numbers that will require a lot of chemistry work or investment.
Most FW are not coming from the wild at this point. My rasboras in theory should be in a PH of 5 > 6.4 , but they thrive just fine in my treated tap with a little acid buffer to bring it a little closer to 6.5/7.
How old is the tank, how many gallons, how many fish, what kind of fish, whats your filtration, whats your media, how often are you feeding, what, and how much are you feeding, how often are you doing water changes, and how much water are you changing out. What test kit(s) are you using. What kind of light(s), what wattage how long are they on, how many hours a day is the room bright with artificial or natural light would you say. What kind of plants, substrate, chemicals used? Too many questions?
Probably get a better direction after some background information is given. My 2 cents...
Most FW are not coming from the wild at this point. My rasboras in theory should be in a PH of 5 > 6.4 , but they thrive just fine in my treated tap with a little acid buffer to bring it a little closer to 6.5/7.
How old is the tank, how many gallons, how many fish, what kind of fish, whats your filtration, whats your media, how often are you feeding, what, and how much are you feeding, how often are you doing water changes, and how much water are you changing out. What test kit(s) are you using. What kind of light(s), what wattage how long are they on, how many hours a day is the room bright with artificial or natural light would you say. What kind of plants, substrate, chemicals used? Too many questions?
Probably get a better direction after some background information is given. My 2 cents...
Last edited:
I think you’re reading too much into my desire to use ro water. I’m not chasing any numbers. In fact, I don’t even know what the ideal numbers would be. I know my fish all like soft water but I don’t know the perfect numbers to chase. I was just planning to use ro water because it would give me a stable source of water without the additives from the water company. I figured since it doesn’t remove all menerals i should be able to use it as is as long as the ph isn’t too low. I only said I could add something to raise to hardness if needed because it may end up being too soft for my plants. Lots of people who have freshwater tanks use ro water and reconstitute it to the hardness that they need. I was under the impression that it’s a fairly simple, straightforward thing to do.
But not to seem ungrateful, because I do appreciate the help, here are the answers to your questions. My tank is around 3 months old and is 90 gallons. I have mostly rasbaros in it. I have 38 sundadanio goblinus, 10 Trigonostigma somphongsi, 20 chili rasbaeos and 6 Scarlet Badis. The first two groups of rasbaros were wild caught along with the badis. They were added in two batches a month apart. I also have a few plants. For filtration I have two sponge filters along with a diy above tank sump that probably holds 3-5 gallons. I just added this less than two weeks ago so plan to remove the sponge filters once the new filter gets more mature. The water was just starting to get cloudy before I added the new filter. It has foam and something that’s kind of like expanded clay but it’s white. I forgot what it’s called but it’s used for aquaponics. I’m using safetysorb as a substrate. I feed live food mostly. I culture different micro nematodes and feed one swoosh every day sometimes twice. Only the symphongs and chili rasbaros eat prepared food so I only feed that once or twice a week. I’m hoping to get more fish converted but for now since so few fish eat it I don’t feed it often. I change the water every 7-10 days. I try for every week but with two toddlers around sometimes it doesn’t happen. Some weeks have been skipped. I change around 20%. I’d like to do a larger change but with the ph difference I figured staying around 20% would be safe. I’m using api test solutions. I have one beamswork fixture that is set to ramp on and off and is on 12 hours. I then have two cheap led spotlights that come on for 4 hours during midday. This has been my lighting schedule from the beginning and I haven’t had any problems until a couple of weeks ago. The room is bright but not super bright. I think the tank may get direct light in the wee hours of the morning. I came down once around 7 and there was a beam of sunlight very close to the tank. I believe it may get sunlight from sunrise until around 7am. I’m not up early enough to see for sure but I have since closed the blinds to the window in question. I dose the day after water change with an all purpose aquarium fertilizer. I need to get test kits and test before I dose more but I figured with the plants I have and the low nitrates they would probably appreciate a little something.
I hope this answered everything. I appreciate your help!
But not to seem ungrateful, because I do appreciate the help, here are the answers to your questions. My tank is around 3 months old and is 90 gallons. I have mostly rasbaros in it. I have 38 sundadanio goblinus, 10 Trigonostigma somphongsi, 20 chili rasbaeos and 6 Scarlet Badis. The first two groups of rasbaros were wild caught along with the badis. They were added in two batches a month apart. I also have a few plants. For filtration I have two sponge filters along with a diy above tank sump that probably holds 3-5 gallons. I just added this less than two weeks ago so plan to remove the sponge filters once the new filter gets more mature. The water was just starting to get cloudy before I added the new filter. It has foam and something that’s kind of like expanded clay but it’s white. I forgot what it’s called but it’s used for aquaponics. I’m using safetysorb as a substrate. I feed live food mostly. I culture different micro nematodes and feed one swoosh every day sometimes twice. Only the symphongs and chili rasbaros eat prepared food so I only feed that once or twice a week. I’m hoping to get more fish converted but for now since so few fish eat it I don’t feed it often. I change the water every 7-10 days. I try for every week but with two toddlers around sometimes it doesn’t happen. Some weeks have been skipped. I change around 20%. I’d like to do a larger change but with the ph difference I figured staying around 20% would be safe. I’m using api test solutions. I have one beamswork fixture that is set to ramp on and off and is on 12 hours. I then have two cheap led spotlights that come on for 4 hours during midday. This has been my lighting schedule from the beginning and I haven’t had any problems until a couple of weeks ago. The room is bright but not super bright. I think the tank may get direct light in the wee hours of the morning. I came down once around 7 and there was a beam of sunlight very close to the tank. I believe it may get sunlight from sunrise until around 7am. I’m not up early enough to see for sure but I have since closed the blinds to the window in question. I dose the day after water change with an all purpose aquarium fertilizer. I need to get test kits and test before I dose more but I figured with the plants I have and the low nitrates they would probably appreciate a little something.
I hope this answered everything. I appreciate your help!
CrypticLifeStyle
Non-member
I am, only because I'm throwing out a direction to help you possibly save money, and RO, and PH kept mentally high lighting from your posts to me, that's all while leaving other things for others to address 
. Your scenario now is something i went through as my first big disaster as a fish keeper back in 97', and i was still naive teen, and took all this stupid advise, and everyone had a million opinions, and I remember going to Tropical Isle spending close to $200- on a uv, and pump, and tubing, and phosphate remover as phosphates were detected by their testing, blah blah.
Anyways years later knowing better, this type of scenario, there's probably a cheaper, easier way before spending the $, and If your going to spend $, target the issue(s).
Going out buying RO or Distilled gets old, and if you do buy a RO unit you should have your water lab tested to see if there's anything specific to target for removal, and maybe customize the RO to your specific needs, and since this is a reef forum I admit I'm curious if you have a reef tank, and if so, maybe the conversation about the RO should be more a RO/DI one. That was the questions i had, and if you do RO, depending on plants, and what-not you'll have choice's for remineralization additives to go through. If you do/add shrimp they themselves have their own needed values as an example for molting etc etc. Then from there there liquid ferts, because between the 2 if not measured out right is just adding too much of something, know what i mean. Much bigger separate conversation, but you may already know all this, just wasn't sure of how much you knew or not. A lot of just in case information
Have you considered maybe a canister filter opposed to what you have going on now? I don't know If my brain would let me go to bed with a sump over my tank haha. Have the sundadanio goblinus gone after the chilli's? Are the scarlets skittish or territorial or passive? Just curious, i keep scarlets with cardinals, rummys, amanos, and cories, but thinking about moving them to a mr aqua 12g with my chillis, and fires.
Was the cloudiness a white or green before? That can help determine if it was bacterial or algae in the timeline. Safetysorb is pretty inert, but I don't know how hands on you are in your tanks, but once that stuff breaks down, If It hasn't already It's just a cloudy goo mess. Just sounds like there's a lot that has gone down in the past few months possibly biologically, and the system equipment Is still new, and changing, and decent livestock per say given the filtration situation, ferts etc etc. IMO water changes would do you nothing but good, but in conjunction with monitoring your 3 basics of the nitrogen cycle til the system is biologically balanced, then tinker from there. The plants will love the water changes too. A UV is a good investment to have around, just run it on a small pump though, all about that dwell time. 9w UV with a range of 40gph>80gph would probably suffice for your size tank, then you can also use it for ICH weapon as well when needed.
I think your light schedule is fine, just not familiar with it's PAR. I have always had issue's personally with LED on planted tanks while not being co2 injected. So to end my ramble (had some beers), not sure if it helped any, or confused you more, I think you'll be fine with some water changes, and it'll probably fix your issue without getting too crazy.
. Your scenario now is something i went through as my first big disaster as a fish keeper back in 97', and i was still naive teen, and took all this stupid advise, and everyone had a million opinions, and I remember going to Tropical Isle spending close to $200- on a uv, and pump, and tubing, and phosphate remover as phosphates were detected by their testing, blah blah. Anyways years later knowing better, this type of scenario, there's probably a cheaper, easier way before spending the $, and If your going to spend $, target the issue(s).
Going out buying RO or Distilled gets old, and if you do buy a RO unit you should have your water lab tested to see if there's anything specific to target for removal, and maybe customize the RO to your specific needs, and since this is a reef forum I admit I'm curious if you have a reef tank, and if so, maybe the conversation about the RO should be more a RO/DI one. That was the questions i had, and if you do RO, depending on plants, and what-not you'll have choice's for remineralization additives to go through. If you do/add shrimp they themselves have their own needed values as an example for molting etc etc. Then from there there liquid ferts, because between the 2 if not measured out right is just adding too much of something, know what i mean. Much bigger separate conversation, but you may already know all this, just wasn't sure of how much you knew or not. A lot of just in case information
Have you considered maybe a canister filter opposed to what you have going on now? I don't know If my brain would let me go to bed with a sump over my tank haha. Have the sundadanio goblinus gone after the chilli's? Are the scarlets skittish or territorial or passive? Just curious, i keep scarlets with cardinals, rummys, amanos, and cories, but thinking about moving them to a mr aqua 12g with my chillis, and fires.
Was the cloudiness a white or green before? That can help determine if it was bacterial or algae in the timeline. Safetysorb is pretty inert, but I don't know how hands on you are in your tanks, but once that stuff breaks down, If It hasn't already It's just a cloudy goo mess. Just sounds like there's a lot that has gone down in the past few months possibly biologically, and the system equipment Is still new, and changing, and decent livestock per say given the filtration situation, ferts etc etc. IMO water changes would do you nothing but good, but in conjunction with monitoring your 3 basics of the nitrogen cycle til the system is biologically balanced, then tinker from there. The plants will love the water changes too. A UV is a good investment to have around, just run it on a small pump though, all about that dwell time. 9w UV with a range of 40gph>80gph would probably suffice for your size tank, then you can also use it for ICH weapon as well when needed.
I think your light schedule is fine, just not familiar with it's PAR. I have always had issue's personally with LED on planted tanks while not being co2 injected. So to end my ramble (had some beers), not sure if it helped any, or confused you more, I think you'll be fine with some water changes, and it'll probably fix your issue without getting too crazy.
I already have the ro/di unit. I just can’t get it to work. I got new filters and it still doesn’t work so that was a waste of money.
I do have a reef tank but I am very bad at reefing. I grow mostly hair algae. That’s kind of why I wanted to try ro water again. I got the unit back when I started the saltwater tank and it stopped work after a couple of weeks. I tried sending it back to be repaired but got the runaround. I was pretty discouraged after spending over $200 on something that pretty much amounted to a piece of useless junk that I never got around to replacing it for fear of the same thing happening. I figured since both tanks have algae maybe there is something in the tap water although I think part of my problem in my reef tank is because I don’t have a cleanup crew. I think there’s two little snails in there. The hermit crabs got kicked out into the sump because all they did was steal food from my dendro.
I have not considered a canister filter. I was planning to stay with the sponge filter because the fish are so little but it really wasn’t enough flow at all. I tried adding a small pump but that ended up being too much flow. The sump using the same pump works perfectly so I think I’ll stifk with this for now. It’s cheap and works and if I add plants to it will look nice also.
The fish all seem to get along pretty well. The sundadanio goblinus are super peaceful and my favorite of the three groups. They school beautifully and are so wonderful to watch! They don’t bother the chili’s at all. The chili’s will sometimes school with them but for the most part they stick to the top around the floating plants. I’m actually considering moving them to the five gallon that I have because they just look so overwhelmed but I’m worried that might be too small for all 20. The scarlets aren’t timid at all. They’re actually the jerks of the tank. Especially to each other. In the 90 that is just enough space for the 5 males to have their own turf but they still have little scuffles throughout the day. The female just tries to avoid the males but will occasionally spawn with the dominant male. It’s a lot of fun to watch this tank and I’m happy to say that keeping the lights off for 3 days has helped a lot! Here’s a pic of what it looks like today. Still not crystal clear but much better. I’m going to do a water change tomorrow but sadly it will not be with ro water as the stupid filter isn’t working.
I do have a reef tank but I am very bad at reefing. I grow mostly hair algae. That’s kind of why I wanted to try ro water again. I got the unit back when I started the saltwater tank and it stopped work after a couple of weeks. I tried sending it back to be repaired but got the runaround. I was pretty discouraged after spending over $200 on something that pretty much amounted to a piece of useless junk that I never got around to replacing it for fear of the same thing happening. I figured since both tanks have algae maybe there is something in the tap water although I think part of my problem in my reef tank is because I don’t have a cleanup crew. I think there’s two little snails in there. The hermit crabs got kicked out into the sump because all they did was steal food from my dendro.
I have not considered a canister filter. I was planning to stay with the sponge filter because the fish are so little but it really wasn’t enough flow at all. I tried adding a small pump but that ended up being too much flow. The sump using the same pump works perfectly so I think I’ll stifk with this for now. It’s cheap and works and if I add plants to it will look nice also.
The fish all seem to get along pretty well. The sundadanio goblinus are super peaceful and my favorite of the three groups. They school beautifully and are so wonderful to watch! They don’t bother the chili’s at all. The chili’s will sometimes school with them but for the most part they stick to the top around the floating plants. I’m actually considering moving them to the five gallon that I have because they just look so overwhelmed but I’m worried that might be too small for all 20. The scarlets aren’t timid at all. They’re actually the jerks of the tank. Especially to each other. In the 90 that is just enough space for the 5 males to have their own turf but they still have little scuffles throughout the day. The female just tries to avoid the males but will occasionally spawn with the dominant male. It’s a lot of fun to watch this tank and I’m happy to say that keeping the lights off for 3 days has helped a lot! Here’s a pic of what it looks like today. Still not crystal clear but much better. I’m going to do a water change tomorrow but sadly it will not be with ro water as the stupid filter isn’t working.
I am, only because I'm throwing out a direction to help you possibly save money, and RO, and PH kept mentally high lighting from your posts to me, that's all while leaving other things for others to address
Anyways years later knowing better, this type of scenario, there's probably a cheaper, easier way before spending the $, and If your going to spend $, target the issue(s).
Going out buying RO or Distilled gets old, and if you do buy a RO unit you should have your water lab tested to see if there's anything specific to target for removal, and maybe customize the RO to your specific needs, and since this is a reef forum I admit I'm curious if you have a reef tank, and if so, maybe the conversation about the RO should be more a RO/DI one. That was the questions i had, and if you do RO, depending on plants, and what-not you'll have choice's for remineralization additives to go through. If you do/add shrimp they themselves have their own needed values as an example for molting etc etc. Then from there there liquid ferts, because between the 2 if not measured out right is just adding too much of something, know what i mean. Much bigger separate conversation, but you may already know all this, just wasn't sure of how much you knew or not. A lot of just in case information
Have you considered maybe a canister filter opposed to what you have going on now? I don't know If my brain would let me go to bed with a sump over my tank haha. Have the sundadanio goblinus gone after the chilli's? Are the scarlets skittish or territorial or passive? Just curious, i keep scarlets with cardinals, rummys, amanos, and cories, but thinking about moving them to a mr aqua 12g with my chillis, and fires.
Was the cloudiness a white or green before? That can help determine if it was bacterial or algae in the timeline. Safetysorb is pretty inert, but I don't know how hands on you are in your tanks, but once that stuff breaks down, If It hasn't already It's just a cloudy goo mess. Just sounds like there's a lot that has gone down in the past few months possibly biologically, and the system equipment Is still new, and changing, and decent livestock per say given the filtration situation, ferts etc etc. IMO water changes would do you nothing but good, but in conjunction with monitoring your 3 basics of the nitrogen cycle til the system is biologically balanced, then tinker from there. The plants will love the water changes too. A UV is a good investment to have around, just run it on a small pump though, all about that dwell time. 9w UV with a range of 40gph>80gph would probably suffice for your size tank, then you can also use it for ICH weapon as well when needed.
I think your light schedule is fine, just not familiar with it's PAR. I have always had issue's personally with LED on planted tanks while not being co2 injected. So to end my ramble (had some beers), not sure if it helped any, or confused you more, I think you'll be fine with some water changes, and it'll probably fix your issue without getting too crazy.
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CrypticLifeStyle
Non-member
What brand ro unit, and how many stages, and what are those stages do you know? Hair algae may not of been the ro units fault, but we don't have your history/background on it to determine is age was a factor or not in the timeline or water results to look over. Do you know what your water pressure was through the unit? If you do research a new purchase, I personally use BulkReefSuppy 6stage 150gph water saver unit with inline 3 stage TDS. My pressure is from 65psi to 75psi max, and never lower then 62psi. I have mine hooked into my laundry hookups. I believe anything below 60psi you need a booster pump for. If you have a significant other in this decision tell her or him there's also the addon of drinking water as well. That has worked for a few people
Sponge filter is too small for that size tank IMO. If it was a shrimp tank you could get away with it long term, but a 90g does have some volume, and plants need flow. A sunsun is a cheap canister filter solution to consider. Maybe 2x 304 models for the livestock you keep. The flow isn't great, but a lot of media room. If put together right, and not bumped into it should last awhile. Don't get caught up into the UV though in canister units, flow too fast to be effective, and they usually get so hot they melt/deform the media baskets. Replacement parts are stupid cheap via amazon. I just see this making life easier, and the tank less equipped in appearance. If you buy used a Eheim 2028 is one of my favorites, no longer made but see on CL time to time. Just a suggestion, usually FW guys switch to canisters eventually.
If you scape the tank right you can have a lot of flow, but areas where the fish can just chill as what you have does like slow moving water, (plants, rock) but the plants, and mere water volume in itself needs some flow. The chilli's will definitely do better in a smaller tank, but a 20g is big enough. I keep 35 chilli's in a fluval 7g ebi tank, and they thrive. They are dropping babies so moving them into a 12g long, but plenty of room, and that's why micro fish are so awesome. Big worlds in little tanks.
Glad the tank is looking better, I think you'll be just fine.
Sponge filter is too small for that size tank IMO. If it was a shrimp tank you could get away with it long term, but a 90g does have some volume, and plants need flow. A sunsun is a cheap canister filter solution to consider. Maybe 2x 304 models for the livestock you keep. The flow isn't great, but a lot of media room. If put together right, and not bumped into it should last awhile. Don't get caught up into the UV though in canister units, flow too fast to be effective, and they usually get so hot they melt/deform the media baskets. Replacement parts are stupid cheap via amazon. I just see this making life easier, and the tank less equipped in appearance. If you buy used a Eheim 2028 is one of my favorites, no longer made but see on CL time to time. Just a suggestion, usually FW guys switch to canisters eventually.
If you scape the tank right you can have a lot of flow, but areas where the fish can just chill as what you have does like slow moving water, (plants, rock) but the plants, and mere water volume in itself needs some flow. The chilli's will definitely do better in a smaller tank, but a 20g is big enough. I keep 35 chilli's in a fluval 7g ebi tank, and they thrive. They are dropping babies so moving them into a 12g long, but plenty of room, and that's why micro fish are so awesome. Big worlds in little tanks.
Glad the tank is looking better, I think you'll be just fine.
It’s a bulk reef supply five stage unit. It seems as though I need to get another booster pump as my water pressure is too low. I have a sediment filter; two carbon filters, some other thing and then the ro filter. There’s also a separate di filter but I didnt connect that.
I was thinking the hair algae was because of using tap water. Just a guess, though. It comes and goes so maybe not. It think a lot of the algae will go away if I get a cleanup crew. I’ve been meaning to do that.
I think I’ll move the chili’s to the smaller tank. It’s empty other than pest snails and plants so it’ll be good to finally have something in it.
I was thinking the hair algae was because of using tap water. Just a guess, though. It comes and goes so maybe not. It think a lot of the algae will go away if I get a cleanup crew. I’ve been meaning to do that.
I think I’ll move the chili’s to the smaller tank. It’s empty other than pest snails and plants so it’ll be good to finally have something in it.
What brand ro unit, and how many stages, and what are those stages do you know? Hair algae may not of been the ro units fault, but we don't have your history/background on it to determine is age was a factor or not in the timeline or water results to look over. Do you know what your water pressure was through the unit? If you do research a new purchase, I personally use BulkReefSuppy 6stage 150gph water saver unit with inline 3 stage TDS. My pressure is from 65psi to 75psi max, and never lower then 62psi. I have mine hooked into my laundry hookups. I believe anything below 60psi you need a booster pump for. If you have a significant other in this decision tell her or him there's also the addon of drinking water as well. That has worked for a few people
Sponge filter is too small for that size tank IMO. If it was a shrimp tank you could get away with it long term, but a 90g does have some volume, and plants need flow. A sunsun is a cheap canister filter solution to consider. Maybe 2x 304 models for the livestock you keep. The flow isn't great, but a lot of media room. If put together right, and not bumped into it should last awhile. Don't get caught up into the UV though in canister units, flow too fast to be effective, and they usually get so hot they melt/deform the media baskets. Replacement parts are stupid cheap via amazon. I just see this making life easier, and the tank less equipped in appearance. If you buy used a Eheim 2028 is one of my favorites, no longer made but see on CL time to time. Just a suggestion, usually FW guys switch to canisters eventually.
If you scape the tank right you can have a lot of flow, but areas where the fish can just chill as what you have does like slow moving water, (plants, rock) but the plants, and mere water volume in itself needs some flow. The chilli's will definitely do better in a smaller tank, but a 20g is big enough. I keep 35 chilli's in a fluval 7g ebi tank, and they thrive. They are dropping babies so moving them into a 12g long, but plenty of room, and that's why micro fish are so awesome. Big worlds in little tanks.
Glad the tank is looking better, I think you'll be just fine.
CrypticLifeStyle
Non-member
DI is what is going to clean up that last 1>3% in the water typically. They sell color changing DI resin, which i use, and it's pretty spot on in accordance to what the inline tds reads, and what my hand held TDS reads. A TDS is good to have as well so you can keep on top of when to replace stages. Anyways, check out the Bulk reef supply videos on youtube, you'll probably fill in a lot of question/information gaps. They do a pretty good job explaining everything.
Yeah, tap water isn't going to work for everyone. Before you buy a booster pump, maybe check the other water sources, and see if there's any with higher pressure. 60psi is the minimum, get past that, and your good.
Yeah, tap water isn't going to work for everyone. Before you buy a booster pump, maybe check the other water sources, and see if there's any with higher pressure. 60psi is the minimum, get past that, and your good.
Matt W
Chemist
Hi All,
I too have used RO water in FW applications in mass. Primarily in shrimp tanks and then I would remineralize to desired targets. But find that for either high light/CO2/EI tanks or low light/ULM tanks tap works mostly fine (and re-mineralize as needed to tank directly).
Also, have a spare in-tank UV if you would like to borrow (Westwood or Kendall Sq pick up only)
I too have used RO water in FW applications in mass. Primarily in shrimp tanks and then I would remineralize to desired targets. But find that for either high light/CO2/EI tanks or low light/ULM tanks tap works mostly fine (and re-mineralize as needed to tank directly).
Also, have a spare in-tank UV if you would like to borrow (Westwood or Kendall Sq pick up only)
