LOOKING FOR 0ppm RO water system? that makes 150GPD for $159.00 only? Liquagen.com

[thespsguy]

I need to share this with everyone...
I bought several products from this company Liquagen.com to use in my saltwater aquarium. I have seen many other similar out there, some even much more expensive and I have to tell everyone that this 6 stage RO water makes 0PPM, not even 2 or 1 but ZERO ppm right from their system where the regular water is over 350ppm. Can you believe it? I have the 150GPD and indeed does 150GPD or more, very fast and pure water for my expensive hobby of saltwater where I pay only $159.00 for the perfect water. Do I need to say anything else for this price? beside I HIGHLY recommend. Don't waste your time in search around, just buy it!

Plus the installation is very easy and if you need, they go over with you by phone or text message. I spoke several times with the owner Himmat Singh and he is just great.

Their site is liquagen.com or at Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MS9NM9N/ref=twister_B01N24KG8S?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Andy V]

Thank you for posting.

A properly functioning/maintained RO/DI system should always be producing water with 0ppm TDS. This should be the case no matter what system you buy.

 

[thespsguy]

Thank you for posting.

A properly functioning/maintained RO/DI system should always be producing water with 0ppm TDS. This should be the case no matter what system you buy.

Unfortunately Andy more than 40% of what is sold out there saying that they are RO water, they are not. That is the true

 

[Andy V]

Unfortunately Andy more than 40% of what is sold out there saying that they are RO water, they are not. That is the true

I'm not really sure what you mean...what are you trying to say?

Are you saying that when hobbyists buy "RO" water from an LFS, they are not actually purchasing RO water "40% of the time?" Or poor quality RO/DI? I agree that purchased water isn't always 0ppm TDS.

But if you are saying that 40% of RO systems are "fake", I would have to see some evidence for that, because I am not aware of any.

An actual RO/DI system is quite easy to identify, set-up, and test for proper functioning. I would be shocked if any meaningful number of hobbyists had "fake" RO systems. The canisters are mostly commoditized anyway, it's the filters and membranes that do the real work.

Again, thanks for posting because if the system you linked to works well, it is a good price.

 

[Kelly's Reef]

Working in the Biotech industry with "Clean" water it really matters where the test is performed on the water. Is it from the source, the storage tank, Is it from a brand new hose that was just cleaned and sterilized, or a sterile hose that was installed yesterday, last week, or is sitting on the floor or in a bucket.
I have not seen the last in Biotech, but have seen it at LFS.

 

[Andy V]

Working in the Biotech industry with "Clean" water it really matters where the test is performed on the water. Is it from the source, the storage tank, Is it from a brand new hose that was just cleaned and sterilized, or a sterile hose that was installed yesterday, last week, or is sitting on the floor or in a bucket.
I have not seen the last in Biotech, but have seen it at LFS.

Shouldn't it just be an in-line test on the final output line?

 

[Kelly's Reef]

Shouldn't it just be an in-line test on the final output line?

Yes, but it makes a difference if it is a brand new line, or an old one.

 

[jah-hoeva]

Shouldn't it just be an in-line test on the final output line?

If your talking the TDS level of a reef level rodi system you are correct. This thread is all convoluted with misinformation and mislabeled terms.

 

[Kelly's Reef]

YES dirty hose will increase the numbers

 

[Andy V]

Yes, but it makes a difference if it is a brand new line, or an old one.

Well I suppose that if the TDS starts to move above 0ppm and doesn't go back to 0ppm after a filter change, then you might want to look at other causes like a dirty hose. That being said, my RO/DI system is 8 years old, I've periodically replaced and calibrated the TDS meter, and after a filter change it's never gone above 0ppm, i.e. a dirty line has never caused the TDS to read above 0ppm.

For reefing, the in-line test on the output line is more than adequate. Particularly since we are talking about whether an RO/DI system is functioning properly, NOT whether or not 0ppm RO/DI water dumped into a dirty bucket will test 0ppm.

 

[nemodan]

Well I suppose that if the TDS starts to move above 0ppm and doesn't go back to 0ppm after a filter change, then you might want to look at other causes like a dirty hose. That being said, my RO/DI system is 8 years old, I've periodically replaced and calibrated the TDS meter, and after a filter change it's never gone above 0ppm, i.e. a dirty line has never caused the TDS to read above 0ppm.

For reefing, the in-line test on the output line is more than adequate. Particularly since we are talking about whether an RO/DI system is functioning properly, NOT whether or not 0ppm RO/DI water dumped into a dirty bucket will test 0ppm.

Agree 100 %.

I have never cleaned or changed any tubing in 6 years and the water entering the last filter (DI) have always been 6-7 ppm and out 0 ppm.

I change the DI filter when the output is 2 ppm. It takes around 5-6 months from 0 ppm to 2 ppm. I do 35 G of RODI water every weekend.

In 6 years I only changed once (1) the pre-DI filters.

Cheers