To replace, or not to replace...

[Leadfootedracer]

I've been battling water temperature problems for months now. I check the temperature several times a day and plug in/unplug the heaters as I see fit, and I've also been leaving the tops open to help keep the tank somewhere near suitable.

The other day I was getting ready to break down the BRS dual media reactor to clean it and change the media, when I noticed the GFO wasn't tumbling. Gave it a shake and saw that the media wasn't rock solid, and checked the outlet hose for flow and discovered there is none. The MJ1200 that pumped water thru my 9W UV Sterilzer and then thru the dual media reactor has crapped out.

I unplugged the UV light and this pump and my tank temps have dropped dramatically. I am lead to believe this dying/dead pump has been the source of my stray heat all this time. Yes, i know the UV Sterilzer adds heat as well, and probably more so due to the reduced flow thru the unit.

A lot of people do NOT run UV, GFO or Carbon and have great success. What's everyone's opinion on this?

If I decide to replace the pump, i will use 2, and put the UV Sterilzer on its own pump to allow higher flow. I believe this would limit the amount of heat transfer to the water.


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[Leadfootedracer]

I've also been battling a green algae problem for a little over a month now. A lot has changed, so I'm not sure exactly what is causing it. Ontop of high heats and a bad pump, I had downsized my cuc, swapped out all 4 T5 bulbs, added a pooping machine (5+" foxface), feeding 20mL 2x a week of phytoplankton, and changed out the sand bed.

 

[Jeff.:P]

IMO:
Stop - 20mL 2x a week of phytoplankton.
Do not disturb the sand bed anymore.
Remove UV sterilizer once green water is gone.

Are you using RO/DI?

 

[Leadfootedracer]

IMO:
Stop - 20mL 2x a week of phytoplankton.
Do not disturb the sand bed anymore.
Remove UV sterilizer once green water is gone.

Are you using RO/DI?

I was using the phytoplankton to feed the pods, as I am preparing to purchase a mandarin goby in the coming months

I only disturb the sand bed with the scraper when scraping the glass, otherwise the sand sifting starfish and the foxface turn the top layer over as well as the nassarius snails.

Green water was gone months ago. The algae growth is on the glass/rocks.

Yes, I am using RO/Di water. Tested it today while making top off water and it was 0-1ppm.


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[Platehead]

What are your parameters?

 

[Leadfootedracer]

Water temp: 76.3 (at time of test, had sump shut down to do some cleaning regularly is 78ish)
Salinity: 1.024 (hydrometer)
pH: 7.8-8.0
NH3: 0ppm
NO2: 0ppm
NO3: 0ppm

This is using an API test kit. I haven't used it up yet, but when I do, I will spring for a more accurate kit. I also don't have the "other" kit that tests calcium, magnesium, and that other stuff.



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[G.T]

Answering your original Question!

1 A lot of cheaper AC pumps can run warm, and cause heat transfer. I only use DC pumps, much lower wattage, and i believe no heat transfer. UV's are a good source of heat transfer!
2 Personally other than my water change setup, i Refuse to use standard Glass Heaterstats! They are not accurate enough for our systems. Some are +-4 degrees! Anyways others will disagree. I only use external Thermostats +- 1/2 , which cost no more than a normal so called quality heaterstat!
Stability is a relative small word, But is one of the Keys in my eyes to a Better Tank.
3 Lots of water movement, with vigorous surface agitation. Gives maximum oxygen exchange.

Just a few Idea's for you.

 

[dannyp02908]

do you have a sump with a refugium? If not, I will again recommend against the mandarin. He will decimate your in tank pod population before you know it. No sense feeding the pods as you will likely be replenishing them regularly anyhow.

 

[reefstarter]

+1 to this , there is no need to feed phyto . I have a 50 gallon fuge full , and I mean full of pods and I never feed phyto .all you are doing is producing unwanted phosphates and nitrates . and yes you can run a tank without GFO . In my opinion GFO should be used if needed , for example you are having problems keeping phosphates down and can't figure out why . this is also part of what makes a stable system . once you have gone through and tuned your tank to where it runs smooth without having to make changes. Your tank is very very new . and I wouldn't expect it to be stable for at least 6 months of tinkering . but remember change ONE thing and let it be a while . after a month or so if that didn't work try another thing . baby steps

 

[Leadfootedracer]

do you have a sump with a refugium? If not, I will again recommend against the mandarin. He will decimate your in tank pod population before you know it. No sense feeding the pods as you will likely be replenishing them regularly anyhow.

Yes, I have a sump with a fuge. It's not very large, but it is there. Has 10lbs sand, 20lbs rock, a light, some caulerpa, and soon to be some chaeto.



3-4 months ago I had a terrible green water problem. I added the UV, the GFO, and the Carbon at that time. The water has been pristine ever since. Like I mentioned, the only reason for this post is to gather opinion on wether to run these items full time or not. Some people have told me to keep the UV running and never look back.

Long story short, the pump died. I really should have been using 2 to begin with. I'm short on cash, and don't have the coin to get 2 new pumps. How critical is it, that I get this fixed?


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[Leadfootedracer]

The day I put the caulerpa in, maybe 3 weeks ago. I've had to split some off and give it away due to it growing out of the water


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[dannyp02908]

if the pumps you are looking to replace are maxis, look around this forum. ive seen people give away maxis for free. sometimes 5 bucks.

 

[Leadfootedracer]

if the pumps you are looking to replace are maxis, look around this forum. ive seen people give away maxis for free. sometimes 5 bucks.

That's pretty much where I'm at right now. I was given a used MJ1200 when i picked up the media reactor. I put the UV Sterilzer between the pump and the reactor as I only had the one pump. By doing so, I had to reduce the flow to not pump the GFO out of the reactor which makes me think the water spent too much time in the Sterilzer, causing it to get hotter than normal and cause my high tank temps. Hence the mention of using 2 pumps moving forward.

But my question has not really been answered. Is there a need to get these items running again? My tank has been doing very well lately. Tons of growth, pods appear to be thriving, bristleworms had a small population spike, and the fish seem to be doing great. I don't know how long the pump has been dead, so I can't really say how long the tank has been doing this well without it. Would make sense if the new algae growth would be a side effect of the pump dying tho.


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[G.T]

That's pretty much where I'm at right now. I was given a used MJ1200 when i picked up the media reactor. I put the UV Sterilzer between the pump and the reactor as I only had the one pump. By doing so, I had to reduce the flow to not pump the GFO out of the reactor which makes me think the water spent too much time in the Sterilzer, causing it to get hotter than normal and cause my high tank temps. Hence the mention of using 2 pumps moving forward.

But my question has not really been answered. Is there a need to get these items running again? My tank has been doing very well lately. Tons of growth, pods appear to be thriving, bristleworms had a small population spike, and the fish seem to be doing great. I don't know how long the pump has been dead, so I can't really say how long the tank has been doing this well without it. Would make sense if the new algae growth would be a side effect of the pump dying tho.


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The Tank will be fine without a UV. Most do not Use these, including myself. Your GFO is a good feature on your tank, if your po4 is elevated. Do you know what your Phosphate is? What Return pump are you using, from the sump? Where are you located, it does not say in your Profile.

 

[Leadfootedracer]

The Tank will be fine without a UV. Most do not Use these, including myself. Your GFO is a good feature on your tank, if your po4 is elevated. Do you know what your Phosphate is? What Return pump are you using, from the sump? Where are you located, it does not say in your Profile.

I do not know the phosphate level, no.

I am using a mag12 return pump, in the sump.

I am located in Woonsocket, RI.

Pic of sump just before finishing up plumbing this last time around.


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[dz6t]

feeding 20mL 2x a week of phytoplankton, .

What brand is the phytoplankton?

 

[Leadfootedracer]

What brand is the phytoplankton?

I'm using Kent Phytoplex. Instructions state to dose 10mL per 50 gal UP TO 3x a week. My setup is around 110 gal total volume.

Since using it, I have noticed the pod population sky rocket.

I did add a bottle of trigger pods to the sump a week ago, just to make sure they were propagating in the sump as well.


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[Leadfootedracer]

Well, I just got home from work and checked the temperature. I've had both heaters plugged in, set at "71 degrees" since about noon (12 hours) and the tank went from 77 degrees at noon to 85 degrees at midnight.

I've reopened the lids, unplugged the heaters, and begun to ponder what else could be causing this.


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[Rone]

Maybe that Mag pump is causing the temp issue. That size pump seems a bit to much for tank so I assume you got a ball valve to restrict flow?

 

[dz6t]

I'm using Kent Phytoplex. Instructions state to dose 10mL per 50 gal UP TO 3x a week. My setup is around 110 gal total volume.

Since using it, I have noticed the pod population sky rocket.

I did add a bottle of trigger pods to the sump a week ago, just to make sure they were propagating in the sump as well.


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I would cut down on the dose, the liquid inside the bottle can be loaded with phosphate and nitrate to keep the culture semi-alive. If you get an old bottle, it may contain mostly dead material as these additives are not refrigerated.