BirdmanReefer
Non-member
will a 125 gallon salt with stand on a 2nd floor be ok up against a wall? is it a close ok? or a for sure, no problem ok? assuming its up against a wall and the supports are in descent shape?
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125 gallon tank on 2nd floor? Ok?
- Thread starter BirdmanReefer
- Start date
SharkLover
T5 LPS
I wrote a long ardious post that somehow was deleted. Be on the safe side, go 70 or lower unless as jsrnec said you know more information about the structure. Or make sure you have renters insurance.
smartfish
Rob Smart
You have to consider .... what is it? 8 to 11 pounds per gallon of water plus the tank and stand. Unless I am wrong adding salt, sand and displacing the water with LR (depending on density of LR) I would lean closer to maybe 10 pounds per gallon. Ok so just guestimating. I think with the light and refugium if that is not included, maybe a container to top off water, I think you would be up and around 1500 to 1700 pounds. Any one can chime in if I am wrong it is a rough estimate. But go a little higher when estimating... myself better safe than sorry. JMO
Miller
Non-member
Wasn't deleted.....he posted in Reef Talk and Advanced Reef Topics.
SharkLover
T5 LPS
Thanks for getting to the bottom of that lol. Wasn't sure what happened
Mini4x
Sea Box!
Static load YAY!..
Depending the tank, a 125g even though it's bigger and heavier may be 'safer' depending on how your house is built. A 6 foot 125g is probably 'safer' than a 4 foot 125g. As the load is spread out better, so mayeb it crosses 4 joists instead of 3.. etc..
Ever see one of those waterbed setups when they have it setup on dixie cups?
Depending the tank, a 125g even though it's bigger and heavier may be 'safer' depending on how your house is built. A 6 foot 125g is probably 'safer' than a 4 foot 125g. As the load is spread out better, so mayeb it crosses 4 joists instead of 3.. etc..
Ever see one of those waterbed setups when they have it setup on dixie cups?
Shenlung
Tankless Wonder
MY own opinion on it is : if you're in doubt, reinforce or don't do it at all. Even if my house has 8" wood I-beams spaced 12" apart, I'd still run a center brace under the tank on the ground floor just to be sure....and 12" apart is supposedly enough to support 2500#'s or something like that. I had a discussion about this last year with someone (don't remember who or where) and got some rough specs, He said that if there is even the slightest doubt in your mind, put in a support column, the worst you could do is add a support that isn't needed, whereas not supporting could have you replacing a hole in your floor plus your entire aquarium setup.
Carcharodon
Pure Dangerous
I had a 135 (6'x18" I think) on the 2nd floor of an apt once...I'd still have an engineer take a peek if I were you.
BirdmanReefer
Non-member
thanks all i appreciate it and is the 6 foot long 125 gal tank so i think it should be ok im going to fill it up over like 4 days to make sure i dont hear any creaking or noises
I couldn't find my 7th edition code book ( don't tell anyone, I'm supposed to have it with me at ALL times ;-) but here is a link to help you at least try to figure out what you can and can't do with what you have existing.
Figure out the dead load/full tank weight (error on the side of caution)
Figure your live load (based on the room, ie; bedroom, attic, etc)
try to determine what size floor joists, and sheathing you have and their span/spacing. ( 2X8 16 o/c, 2X10 16O/C, span apprx. 10', 12'..from bearing wall to bearing wall)
The tables will give you an idea of whether or not what you have will 1) support the load, 2) how much deflection you will have (the amount the supports will bend possibly cracking the plaster/drywall below, even though it will support the load).
Good Luck, its not as hard to figure as it seems.
http://www.umass.edu/bmatwt/publications/articles/understanding_loads_using_span_tables.html
Figure out the dead load/full tank weight (error on the side of caution)
Figure your live load (based on the room, ie; bedroom, attic, etc)
try to determine what size floor joists, and sheathing you have and their span/spacing. ( 2X8 16 o/c, 2X10 16O/C, span apprx. 10', 12'..from bearing wall to bearing wall)
The tables will give you an idea of whether or not what you have will 1) support the load, 2) how much deflection you will have (the amount the supports will bend possibly cracking the plaster/drywall below, even though it will support the load).
Good Luck, its not as hard to figure as it seems.
http://www.umass.edu/bmatwt/publications/articles/understanding_loads_using_span_tables.html
delta
Impatient Reefer
The house design can either hold it or it can't, bearing wall or not. Once you're over 100gallons you should aways double check and make sure. A house build with a 2x8 floor joists on a 12' span 16"oc needs to have extra support to add a tank. This would be very common in a house build in the 60-70's
I would also look at the main carrying beam, under where you want the tank, of the house. this may be pushed to the hilt already, especially if it is multiple 2X's and not steel or LVL's or the like. Also check any large opening in the first floor walls under the tank position.
I would also look at the main carrying beam, under where you want the tank, of the house. this may be pushed to the hilt already, especially if it is multiple 2X's and not steel or LVL's or the like. Also check any large opening in the first floor walls under the tank position.
It DOES make a difference. I would start in the basement and follow the load dispersment all the way up to where you plan the tank to sit. (spans, headers, openings, etc)
The "typical' construction method of that era was "true" 2X material. That's a bonus, unfortunately, they usually under sized the height of the joist (today we would use say a 2x8 16 O/C, they may have gone True 2x6 16 O/C, or sometimes 20'' or 24" O/C.), especially on a second floor.
IMO, it would be well worth finding out the joist size and span, as well as what it's all being held up by. You could have a "balloon frame", where the joists are nailed to the sides of studs that go from the foundation all the way up to the roof. I would find out first, that's a fair amount of weight, especially in an older home. JMHO
