alpha0r
Non-member
I have been on this forum a little while and I repeatedly see aquarists ask about microbubbles. I thought I would write one post I could link to rather than typing in an answer each time.
Microbubbles have four main causes
I) Pluming leaks (usually on the intake side)
II) Drain lines
III) Skimmers
IV) Poor sump design
We will look at them in order.
I. Pluming Leaks
As a pump sucks in water, it creates a vacuum. If there are any loose connections the pump will pull air into the pipe and push it back into the display much like a venturi pulls air into a skimmer. Usually you can fix this fairly easily by simply finding the leak and plugging it. You can often times hear the air being sucked in so simply follow your ears. If you can't find it easily here are some common places to look.
1) Tighten any hose clamps (you did use them right?)
2) Check all your threaded fittings. Teflon paste works best for sealing these fitting although Teflon tape and aquarium grade silicon works too.
3) If your running a pump externally, check any gaskets or o-rings and make sure the faceplate is on tight. I had a Mag-7 that spit bubbles everywhere until I replaced the o-ring.
4) PVC fittings *could* leak if improperly installed. Make sure the joints are clean and you use plenty of solvent on both the pipe and the fitting. The pipe should slide in easily. Also give it a twist to completely coat the joint.
II. Drain Lines
Drain lines will pull air and there is nothing you can do to stop it. The key is to get the bubbles out before they reach the return pump.
1)Direct the flow away from the pump. Simply put a 90 degree elbow on the end of your drain line facing away from the pump. If your problem isn't severe this may be enough.
2) Use a 100 micron filter sock. This is the simplest solution for moderate to heavy bubbles but also the worst IMHO. If you use a sock you will need to clean it every 3 days or so which becomes a real pain.
3) Build a bubble tower. A bubble tower slows the water velocity so that bubbles can escape. It is basically a large chamber with holes on the bottom for water to escape and a hole on the top for air to escape. People often put Live rock rubble in the bottom to make it harder for the bubbles to exit the bottom. Here are several links with different designs:
A solution to Micro-Bubbles (Melev)
Bubble Tower
Prugs Bubble Extractor
Reverse Durso
III Skimmer
1) Properly adjust your skimmer. If your water level isn't right it can cause bubbles to exit your skimmer.
2) Maintain a constant water level in the skimmer section.
3) Wait for the skimmer to break in.
4) Place the skimmer output as far away from the pump and let it push water away from the pump.
5) Use any of the mechanisms described under the drain line section on your skimmer output.
6) Cheap skimmers will put out bubbles. Thats why they are cheap!
IV Poor sump design
.
1) A sump only needs 3-5 times system volume flowing though. Many people like to use the return pump as the main flow component of there system but this is a bad idea. Use a modest pump and powerheads or a closed loop. If you already have a huge pump, use it as the closed loop and buy a small pump to replace it as the return.
2) Increase the distance between the drain line/skimmer and return.
3) Create a bubble trap between sections in the sump using baffles. I think an under-over-under-over works best if you have the space.
4) Eliminate waterfalls. For example you you have a 10' high baffle but the water in the next section is only 5'. This 5' waterfall creates bubbles, noise, and saltcreep.
5) Use a longer sump. Again the more distance the bubbles need to go the less likely they will make it into the tank.
6) Pun a 90 degree elbow on the return pump intake so that it only draws water from the lowest part of the water column.
I hope this helps you solve your micro-bubble problems. I do not claim to be an expert and I do not claim these are the only ways to solve your problems. I expect other reefers with more experience will post on this thread so make sure to read the whole thing.
Microbubbles have four main causes
I) Pluming leaks (usually on the intake side)
II) Drain lines
III) Skimmers
IV) Poor sump design
We will look at them in order.
I. Pluming Leaks
As a pump sucks in water, it creates a vacuum. If there are any loose connections the pump will pull air into the pipe and push it back into the display much like a venturi pulls air into a skimmer. Usually you can fix this fairly easily by simply finding the leak and plugging it. You can often times hear the air being sucked in so simply follow your ears. If you can't find it easily here are some common places to look.
1) Tighten any hose clamps (you did use them right?)
2) Check all your threaded fittings. Teflon paste works best for sealing these fitting although Teflon tape and aquarium grade silicon works too.
3) If your running a pump externally, check any gaskets or o-rings and make sure the faceplate is on tight. I had a Mag-7 that spit bubbles everywhere until I replaced the o-ring.
4) PVC fittings *could* leak if improperly installed. Make sure the joints are clean and you use plenty of solvent on both the pipe and the fitting. The pipe should slide in easily. Also give it a twist to completely coat the joint.
II. Drain Lines
Drain lines will pull air and there is nothing you can do to stop it. The key is to get the bubbles out before they reach the return pump.
1)Direct the flow away from the pump. Simply put a 90 degree elbow on the end of your drain line facing away from the pump. If your problem isn't severe this may be enough.
2) Use a 100 micron filter sock. This is the simplest solution for moderate to heavy bubbles but also the worst IMHO. If you use a sock you will need to clean it every 3 days or so which becomes a real pain.
3) Build a bubble tower. A bubble tower slows the water velocity so that bubbles can escape. It is basically a large chamber with holes on the bottom for water to escape and a hole on the top for air to escape. People often put Live rock rubble in the bottom to make it harder for the bubbles to exit the bottom. Here are several links with different designs:
A solution to Micro-Bubbles (Melev)
Bubble Tower
Prugs Bubble Extractor
Reverse Durso
III Skimmer
1) Properly adjust your skimmer. If your water level isn't right it can cause bubbles to exit your skimmer.
2) Maintain a constant water level in the skimmer section.
3) Wait for the skimmer to break in.
4) Place the skimmer output as far away from the pump and let it push water away from the pump.
5) Use any of the mechanisms described under the drain line section on your skimmer output.
6) Cheap skimmers will put out bubbles. Thats why they are cheap!
IV Poor sump design
.
1) A sump only needs 3-5 times system volume flowing though. Many people like to use the return pump as the main flow component of there system but this is a bad idea. Use a modest pump and powerheads or a closed loop. If you already have a huge pump, use it as the closed loop and buy a small pump to replace it as the return.
2) Increase the distance between the drain line/skimmer and return.
3) Create a bubble trap between sections in the sump using baffles. I think an under-over-under-over works best if you have the space.
4) Eliminate waterfalls. For example you you have a 10' high baffle but the water in the next section is only 5'. This 5' waterfall creates bubbles, noise, and saltcreep.
5) Use a longer sump. Again the more distance the bubbles need to go the less likely they will make it into the tank.
6) Pun a 90 degree elbow on the return pump intake so that it only draws water from the lowest part of the water column.
I hope this helps you solve your micro-bubble problems. I do not claim to be an expert and I do not claim these are the only ways to solve your problems. I expect other reefers with more experience will post on this thread so make sure to read the whole thing.
