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Can't Keep Shrimp Alive

Scott

Non-member
My tank is two months old and by most accounts doing pretty well.

But I can't seem to keep shrimp alive.

I started with a peppermint to clear up some aiptasia. He did his job and ate it right up. More on him in a bit...

Not long after I added the first peppermint, I enjoyed watching it so much that I added a cleaner shrimp. It died in about 8 days. In that case, it died mid-moult. It was sort of half out of its old shell and it stopped there. The next morning, it was crab food. I talked about it with my LFS folks and we chalked it up to a bad moult, one of those things, especially since the peppermint was fine.

About three weeks later, the peppermint shrimp died.

I replaced it with another peppermint a week or so later, and it lived about a week. It was belly up on the bottom this morning before the crabs found it.

I do a water change every few weeks. The two peppermint both died three-four days after a water change. Could be coincidence.

I've checked nitrates, nitrites, pH and all seem good. To double-check, I brought some water, both from the tank and a sample of my new water to the petstore. They said both are fine. Very little nitrates (0-20 range), no nitrites, pH is good. He did say that the water is hard, but since everything else is doing ok, it's difficult to blame that. The only red flag there is that I use my well water which is quite clean, but has tested with some copper (from the house pipes).

Everything IS doing well. Clown and Cardinal fish are happy. Several LPS corals are thriving, open and as big as ever, and softies are happy.

I do occasionally lose a snail or hermit, but that's one at a time, nothing epidemic. (and there's that pesky Eunice worm that seems to be contributing to that death toll)

Any thoughts? I love having shrimp, but I don't want to put another in without trying something to fix the root cause.
 
Definitly jump on your alkalinity, keep it up around 9-11
 
the bad molt may be to low iodine or iodide any mollusk or crustacean will require this trace element, to properly molt its exo skeleton,while growing. alk should be measured in dkh degrees of karbonate hardness and the levels would be 7-12 but higher elevations of 10-12 are better for sustaining long term ph stability. also a higher kh or alkalinity is needed to insure proper calcium carbonate skeletal growth from stony corals, also its rapidly used up while growing coraline algae.
 
We've talked about iodine as a possibility, but with my livestock the water changes should be enough. I do not currently dose that, but of course I could.

I've been dosing with some calcium and Coral-vite. And using Superbuffer-dKH to stabilize the new water on changes, which has been more toward the 7.4 pH range when made fresh from my tap.

Calcium and iodine is certainly getting used. Besides the 4 LPS corals, there's some green star polyps getting established and setting some new ground and a ton of tiny featherduster worms growing their spirals on the glass.

My pH is around 8.0 and alkalinity at around 180 ppm by my measurements.

180 ppm is an alkalinity ~10, right? I could certainly increase that.
 
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alkalinity 180ppm? im not familiar with that reading. is that meq/l maybe?
 
Your alk is fine, I would look at the Cu as more of an issue. Are you filtering your well water using a RODI?
 
ok it looks like ca maybe calcium but co3 ? some type of calium chloride maybe. i sugest you get a kh karbonate hardnes test kit. it measures in dkh degrees of karbonate hardnes. if you do so then you will want to maintain your kh or alkalinity between 7-12 (10-12) is better for maintaining long term ph and for your stony corals. gee i am having how they say it dazyaaavooooo here.
 
copper is a killer you know i bet you wont have a prob with ich lol!
 
The water was not filtered, no. I know, bad me. The Cu can't be THAT bad as there are inverts crawling around everywhere.

In any case, I will be getting test kits for Cu and kH, and iodone/iodide while I'm at it. They're all on order and we'll get to the bottom of all that.

>> bet you won't have a prob with ich

yeah, especially if there's nothing living to get it!
 
thats a pretty kool conversion tool, but it seemed broken when i was using it. it wasnt converting anything they all stayed at 0
 
that is a cool tool.

reefinghabit, it works for me. Are you picking the appropriate "convert from" option in addition to filling in one of the values?

Otherwise, it needs javascript. If that's disabled in your browser it won't work.
 
probubly my comp. it sux anyway windows 2000
 
whats your salinity at? shrimp are very sensitive when it comes to salinity changes. you said they died after water changes. maybe the salinity changed enough to shock them. are you testing with a refractometer or a hydrometer? my hydrometer was off by 0.006. i have a refractometer now.
 
hey just fyi there is a hydrometer out there just as acurate as a refractometer. its in a clear plastic tube with red rubber ands its a floating glass probe. and they cost 19.99 much cheaper than a 40.000 or 80.00 refractometer.
 
yeah sounds like the POS i bought at seaworld when i set my tank up.
 
is that a good thing or a bad thing?
 
it was bad. was .006 off. cause my clowns to stress out and get ich. they never recoved because i found out too late what the problem was. i dont see why people cheap out on tools to measure salinity. after all it is a SALT water tank. wouldt you think the level of salt is real important?

anyways back on topic. my friend just lost a CB and a cleaner shrimp because he hadnt topped off his 55g in a few weeks. he filled it up and the change in salinity was so great that the shrimp died a few hours later.
 
that sux. i always figured the glass hydrometer was much beter than the plastic ones with the floating lever. i hate them they are always inaccurate. but people still buy them. i use a refractometer at work when i can but mostly i use the glass hydrometer.
 
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