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first attempt at hatching bbs
- Thread starter jebar777
- Start date
testhead1313
Here's lookin' at you
Keep it at a "rolling boil" - pretty vigorous. Don't worry about the eggs at the top, they'll usually get pulled back down.
JustDavidP
Non-member
Naw....you need to worry about rotifers, not bbs. They are pretty much bullet proof. A good rolling boil to ensure that nothing is settling at the bottom, on the sides, or atop the water.
FWIW, you need not be too worried about SG either. I've hatched them in LFS water (1.019 and lower) and in super SG water (1.03+). Look how wonderful they do in Salt Lake in UT?! dat be some nasty water!!
Make sure that the water isn't TOO warm, or you can have die off and at a minimum, start to grow PITA alga in the bottles.
Finally, know that in re: cysts/eggs... a little goes as long way. If you use too much, after the hatch, the water will pollute quickly (I've had it turn almost into a GEL) and you'll have die off.
Dave
FWIW, you need not be too worried about SG either. I've hatched them in LFS water (1.019 and lower) and in super SG water (1.03+). Look how wonderful they do in Salt Lake in UT?! dat be some nasty water!!
Make sure that the water isn't TOO warm, or you can have die off and at a minimum, start to grow PITA alga in the bottles.
Finally, know that in re: cysts/eggs... a little goes as long way. If you use too much, after the hatch, the water will pollute quickly (I've had it turn almost into a GEL) and you'll have die off.
Dave
OP
OP
i used a premixed packet that had salt and eggs in it and it says to add 1L of water. i added a bit more salt to bring it up to my salinity. i already have hatchlings in there too its pretty cool. i want to add them to my fuge and let them overflow into the maintank for food for my scooter blenny and anything else that will eat them.
JustDavidP
Non-member
They don't last long in a reef.
Something else to keep in mind, by using BBS in your system, you MAY introduce and encourage the spread of hydroids and other nasties that love to snack upon BBS. I have this problem in my seahorse tank from time to time....Just a thought.
Dave
Something else to keep in mind, by using BBS in your system, you MAY introduce and encourage the spread of hydroids and other nasties that love to snack upon BBS. I have this problem in my seahorse tank from time to time....Just a thought.
Dave
testhead1313
Here's lookin' at you
You need to decapsulate them by soaking them in bleach for a while. Let me see if I can find you the instructions, otherwise google artemia decapsulate or decapsulation.
Chris
Chris
testhead1313
Here's lookin' at you
From Aquatic Ecosystems:
"Artemia Decapsulation
Artemia or brine shrimp is commonly used as a larval feed for several aquatic species. In order to ensure the highest nutritional value, artemia cysts should be decapsulated prior to hatching. This will disinfect the cysts, remove the chorion (the indigestible portion of the cyst) and will also reduce the amount of energy that the artemia has to exert to hatch. The process increases the nutritional value and hatch rate of the newly hatched artemia and minimizes the risk of bacterial infections and gut obstructions by the chorion.
There are two common methods used to decapsulate the cysts. For both of the methods described, the first step is to hydrate the cysts by soaking them in either fresh or salt water for one hour. Dry cysts have a “dimple” that makes uniform removal of the shell difficult.
Chlorine Method
This method uses household bleach (6% sodium hypochlorite solution) or industrial chlorine (11% sodium hypochlorite solution). Fifteen grams of hydrated cysts are placed in a container with 300 ml of 6% hypochlorite solution. The cysts are then placed on a magnetic stirrer in a container of the bleach for approximately 3-5 minutes or until the cysts turn an orange/brown color. Immediately drain cysts into a 120-micron sieve and wash with fresh or seawater until no smell of chlorine remains (about 5 minutes). Hatch as usual.
Chlorine/Sodium Hydroxide Method:
This method uses full strength seawater, sodium hydroxide (NaOH, 50% solution), and industrial chlorine (11% sodium hypochlorite solution). Since the chemical reaction that takes place is exothermic (it generates heat) the seawater and chemicals used should be very cold (40-45°F) to prevent heat damage to the cysts. For each 100 grams of cysts to be decapsulated, place 15 ml of 50% NaOH (sodium hydroxide), 550 ml of 11% chlorine and 800 ml of chilled seawater in a container with heavy aeration or a magnetic stirrer. Keep in mind that there can be a lot of foam and the container should be large enough to prevent overspill. Add the hydrated cysts and watch for the cysts to turn an orange/brown color (3-5 minutes). Immediately drain cysts into a 120-micron sieve and wash with fresh or seawater until no smell of chlorine remains (about 5 minutes). Hatch as usual."
"Artemia Decapsulation
Artemia or brine shrimp is commonly used as a larval feed for several aquatic species. In order to ensure the highest nutritional value, artemia cysts should be decapsulated prior to hatching. This will disinfect the cysts, remove the chorion (the indigestible portion of the cyst) and will also reduce the amount of energy that the artemia has to exert to hatch. The process increases the nutritional value and hatch rate of the newly hatched artemia and minimizes the risk of bacterial infections and gut obstructions by the chorion.
There are two common methods used to decapsulate the cysts. For both of the methods described, the first step is to hydrate the cysts by soaking them in either fresh or salt water for one hour. Dry cysts have a “dimple” that makes uniform removal of the shell difficult.
Chlorine Method
This method uses household bleach (6% sodium hypochlorite solution) or industrial chlorine (11% sodium hypochlorite solution). Fifteen grams of hydrated cysts are placed in a container with 300 ml of 6% hypochlorite solution. The cysts are then placed on a magnetic stirrer in a container of the bleach for approximately 3-5 minutes or until the cysts turn an orange/brown color. Immediately drain cysts into a 120-micron sieve and wash with fresh or seawater until no smell of chlorine remains (about 5 minutes). Hatch as usual.
Chlorine/Sodium Hydroxide Method:
This method uses full strength seawater, sodium hydroxide (NaOH, 50% solution), and industrial chlorine (11% sodium hypochlorite solution). Since the chemical reaction that takes place is exothermic (it generates heat) the seawater and chemicals used should be very cold (40-45°F) to prevent heat damage to the cysts. For each 100 grams of cysts to be decapsulated, place 15 ml of 50% NaOH (sodium hydroxide), 550 ml of 11% chlorine and 800 ml of chilled seawater in a container with heavy aeration or a magnetic stirrer. Keep in mind that there can be a lot of foam and the container should be large enough to prevent overspill. Add the hydrated cysts and watch for the cysts to turn an orange/brown color (3-5 minutes). Immediately drain cysts into a 120-micron sieve and wash with fresh or seawater until no smell of chlorine remains (about 5 minutes). Hatch as usual."
JustDavidP
Non-member
What are you using for a container again? Are you keeping a decent light source on them? How long were they in the bottle after they hatched?
I use old plastic pretzel containers. They are barrel shaped. I drill two holes in the screw on lid. One for the airline and the other to let air escape.
I use IO at normal tank salinity 1.024 or so. I fill the container 3/4 with water, add the cycsts and aerate vigorously. Enough that the eggs don't settle, but not enough to blow them to the sides like a skimmer would. I keep a clip on , 60W desk lamp on the table and keep the bulb about 6 inchs from the container. Any closer and it gets too hot and you cook em.
I use the BBS in the first 24 hours. I simply unscrew the cap, let the eggs settle out, and the shrimp collect closest to the light source. I then use airline to siphon the shrimp through a brine net and rinse them. I put them right into the seahorse fry tank.
If they are over 24 hours old, I use phytofeast and fed them to make them more nutritious for the fish. IF you plan on growing them out to adulthood, you can't do it in a bottle. You'd need to set up a different tank for them.
Make sure you get a good brand egg. Some have miserable hatch rates. The decapsulated cycsts can be bought, but are expensive. If you want, you can use the recipe above or another. You can find them with a google search. Personally, I've found that only a couple/few get in with the BBS and they don't pose THAT much a problem. I'd not want them in the system in numbers.
D
I use old plastic pretzel containers. They are barrel shaped. I drill two holes in the screw on lid. One for the airline and the other to let air escape.
I use IO at normal tank salinity 1.024 or so. I fill the container 3/4 with water, add the cycsts and aerate vigorously. Enough that the eggs don't settle, but not enough to blow them to the sides like a skimmer would. I keep a clip on , 60W desk lamp on the table and keep the bulb about 6 inchs from the container. Any closer and it gets too hot and you cook em.
I use the BBS in the first 24 hours. I simply unscrew the cap, let the eggs settle out, and the shrimp collect closest to the light source. I then use airline to siphon the shrimp through a brine net and rinse them. I put them right into the seahorse fry tank.
If they are over 24 hours old, I use phytofeast and fed them to make them more nutritious for the fish. IF you plan on growing them out to adulthood, you can't do it in a bottle. You'd need to set up a different tank for them.
Make sure you get a good brand egg. Some have miserable hatch rates. The decapsulated cycsts can be bought, but are expensive. If you want, you can use the recipe above or another. You can find them with a google search. Personally, I've found that only a couple/few get in with the BBS and they don't pose THAT much a problem. I'd not want them in the system in numbers.
D
OP
OP
i was useing a 2 liter bottle of soda upside down with the bottom cut off with an airline to the bottom. i am useing sanfrancisco bay bradn packets with salt and eggs together. i adjusted the salt mix to match my tank, and i followd the directions on the package. i had a lot hatch i could see them swiming around, i had added some phyto about 1 day after hatching. i would like to add some to my fuge and let them overflow into the tank for my scooterblenny. i was also hopeing that some would grow out in my fuge and possibly mate?(possibly).
