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Green/ Brown algae
- Thread starter MrCote
- Start date
OP
OP
MrCote
Non-member
not a very good picture of course. My camera is too complicated and takes too long to upload pictures so i had to use my phone. But that kind of has the same look as the algae on the back. But the algae on the back does look more stringy and is spread out. It doesnt look like solid spots. I touched the algae on this and it didnt feel like anything. Maybe a little bit velvety but not much texture to it.
Reverse osmosis deionized
Well water can have nitrates in it from run off getting into the ground water.You should test the water for nitrates before you use it.
eweston
Non-member
Have you tested you well water for phosphates? Have you reduced the amount of time your lights are on? Cut the lighting back to 3 hours or so for a few days to a week and see if that helps.
If I remember correctly, my tank went through a similar issue with algae after I first cycled it. I don't remember how long it took but it eventually cleared. It doesn't sound like the same issue that I recently experience with green hair algae and cynobacteria.
If I remember correctly, my tank went through a similar issue with algae after I first cycled it. I don't remember how long it took but it eventually cleared. It doesn't sound like the same issue that I recently experience with green hair algae and cynobacteria.
It's not that it isn't a problem, it's just that it's a normal nusiance problem.
Most any nusiance algae (other than dinos) will grow whenever there is available nutrients and light. Newer tanks usually have some excess nutirents from cycling in, and because as the aquarist gets to know their system it takes time to get the maintence and set up established well enough to keep nutrients in check. Regardless, we all fight an eternal battle to keep nutrient export and nutrient import balanced such that nusaince algaes don't take over.
Siphion out algae, siphion out detritis, keep your skimmer clean (and have one that does a good job in the first place), growing macro algea in a refugim and harvesting it as it grows, using GFO (phosphate remover), and carbon dosing, can all be ways of exporting nutrients.
Food, poor quality make up water, additives with nutrients in them, and anything that dies, are all means of importing nutrients.
Since we are keeping reef tanks, we need light, thus to control nusiance algaes we need to focus on nutrient export. Leaving the lights off for a few days will cause many algaes to die back, but if the nutirents are still in the water the algaes will grow back.
Most any nusiance algae (other than dinos) will grow whenever there is available nutrients and light. Newer tanks usually have some excess nutirents from cycling in, and because as the aquarist gets to know their system it takes time to get the maintence and set up established well enough to keep nutrients in check. Regardless, we all fight an eternal battle to keep nutrient export and nutrient import balanced such that nusaince algaes don't take over.
Siphion out algae, siphion out detritis, keep your skimmer clean (and have one that does a good job in the first place), growing macro algea in a refugim and harvesting it as it grows, using GFO (phosphate remover), and carbon dosing, can all be ways of exporting nutrients.
Food, poor quality make up water, additives with nutrients in them, and anything that dies, are all means of importing nutrients.
Since we are keeping reef tanks, we need light, thus to control nusiance algaes we need to focus on nutrient export. Leaving the lights off for a few days will cause many algaes to die back, but if the nutirents are still in the water the algaes will grow back.
OP
OP
MrCote
Non-member
alright, I have a good skimmer, My water quality was tested at tropic isle (i forgot what they tested for though) and they said it was good. Ill test it again with my freshwater test kit. I dont have freshwater nitrate test though, I do not have a refugium because of how it needs light 24 hours, my fish tank is in my room so it would be impossible to sleep with the bright light on at night. And I am going to be getting a phosphate and carbonate hardness test kit soon. Ill limit the lighting down to 3 hours a day for now though... is it ok to leave actinics on too? or do those help feed the algae?
The most important thing to be looking at here is phosphate. Even if you have a barely detectable level, that is still enough to fuel an algae problem. Nitrate is also a factor, but generally phosphate is the critical limiting factor if you want to choke out nusiance algae. Also, keep in mind that regular hobbiest test kits generally don't have the precision to accurately look at the super low phosphate levels that we are going for on reef tanks. If the test gives a clear reading, you have a LOT of phosphate. If it gives even a hint of a reading, it's still a problem. (don't expect TI staff to be all that knowledgable about this stuff, they have a few informed staff, but also many who don't have a clue).
As far as cutting light, it may work to some degree, but if the nutrients are still there, and they will be, you are 100% sure to have the algae come back. The only exception to this is that sometimes you can light starve dinos and cause them to crash and not come back, but I don't think anyone can explain why. Standard green film, cyanobacteria, turfs, hair, and macro algaes will all come back if the nutrients are present.
When you do test or have someone test your water, be sure to also check the make up water you're using for phosphate and nitrate. If there is any of either in your make up water, you will have to do something about that. Even very small amounts will compound and build up because the fresh water evaporates out of saltwater but the nutrients don't evaporate so topping off will be constantly adding nutrients.
As far as cutting light, it may work to some degree, but if the nutrients are still there, and they will be, you are 100% sure to have the algae come back. The only exception to this is that sometimes you can light starve dinos and cause them to crash and not come back, but I don't think anyone can explain why. Standard green film, cyanobacteria, turfs, hair, and macro algaes will all come back if the nutrients are present.
When you do test or have someone test your water, be sure to also check the make up water you're using for phosphate and nitrate. If there is any of either in your make up water, you will have to do something about that. Even very small amounts will compound and build up because the fresh water evaporates out of saltwater but the nutrients don't evaporate so topping off will be constantly adding nutrients.
Get a RODI system. You can get a nice one for less than $200, or they come up used for sale all the time
http://www.bostonreefers.org/forums...DI-4-stage-with-controller-Used-1-5hp-Chiller
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