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Ice Cap Retrofit T5 for 75 Gallon?

Bao

Well-Known Member
BRS Member
Hello all
I want to buy some new light for my tank, it is a 75 gallons with dimension of 48x18x21.

With this tank, I would like to keep LPS and zoanthids on the sand bed
Maybe some easy SPS on the top 1/3 of the tank.
Do you think 4x54w (48" long) T5 with Ice Cap 660 and individual reflector from Ice Cap will be enough light for my tank?

This is the details of the Retrofit T5 light that I am going to buy.
1x Ballast for the Ice Cap 660
4x Single Light Reflector for T5 bulb
4x T5 Waterproof endcap - pair
4x T5 Mounting Standoffs - pair.

Is there anything else you see that I need to get in order for me to complete the Retrofit and get it running.

I also need 4 bulbs, I don't know much about this. Please give me some suggestion on bulbs combination.

I want to see white light, not the yellow one and not too much blue either.

Thanks
 
I my friend just got two of these (for her 75)

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~idProduct~SL2415.html

Not installed yet but i can give ya a rundown next week, post install..

After pricing out the parts separate you come pretty close to getting the ballast free. I prefer not having a single ballasts. I'd even prefer one ballast per bulb, that way if one does you only lose one lamp.
 
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youd be able to do that with a 4x54 IC 660.
I just reordered my t5 bulbs for my pops 90g and went with 2 ATI Blue Plus, 1 UVL Super Actinic, 1 UVL AquaSun...if your wanted more par you could go with a 75/25 aquablue instead of the SA. The bulbs should be here by monday so Ill be reported further on the color spec. As of now I run Guisemann bulbs on his tank and dont like them at all. too washed out. I run a similar bulb combo on my 75 which is lit by a TX5 fixure and love the BLue+s and UVl bulbs.
 
What is the deal with the Overdriven Ice cap ballast? Does it mean that the life span of the bulbs will be alot less?
When I buy the ballast, it will always be overdriven or I have the option of turning it on and off? I don't understand this thing, someone please explain this to me.

I found this when I search for T5:

8*54 = 432watts
Then one member said this:

"On an Icecap ballast it will be more output than on a standard T5 ballast. On an Icecap ballast it would be 640watts for 8-48" T5s or 800watts for 8-60" T5s."

Does this mean that the normal watts for 8 bulbs is 432 but on the Icecap ballast, It will consume from 640w to 800watts to run the 8 bulbs?

or on the Icecap, it consume 432 watts and produce the light that is equivalence of 640 -800 watts?

Sorry about this, just a bit confusing for me.

Thanks
 
Installed this weekend, looks awesome. Used 2 10k aquasun and 2 420's Retrofitted into AGA hood quite easily. Came with Fulham Workhorse 5 Ballasts too, can't beat that.

I my friend just got two of these (for her 75)

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~idProduct~SL2415.html

Not installed yet but i can give ya a rundown next week, post install..

After pricing out the parts separate you come pretty close to getting the ballast free. I prefer not having a single ballasts. I'd even prefer one ballast per bulb, that way if one does you only lose one lamp.
 
What is the deal with the Overdriven Ice cap ballast? Does it mean that the life span of the bulbs will be alot less?
When I buy the ballast, it will always be overdriven or I have the option of turning it on and off? I don't understand this thing, someone please explain this to me.

I found this when I search for T5:

8*54 = 432watts
Then one member said this:

"On an Icecap ballast it will be more output than on a standard T5 ballast. On an Icecap ballast it would be 640watts for 8-48" T5s or 800watts for 8-60" T5s."

Does this mean that the normal watts for 8 bulbs is 432 but on the Icecap ballast, It will consume from 640w to 800watts to run the 8 bulbs?

or on the Icecap, it consume 432 watts and produce the light that is equivalence of 640 -800 watts?

Sorry about this, just a bit confusing for me.

Thanks
This does mean that a normal ballast running 4 48" T5s would draw 432 watts and the Icecap 660 running the same bulbs will draw 640 watts. Not sure if those are the accurate number. But yes by overdriving the bulbs, the ballast does draw more and the bulb life is most likely cut down but I haven't seen any reports on exactly how much it is cut down.
 
icecap

I have an icecap 660 and already talked to icecap on this.
The icecap ballasts run 54 watt and 80 watt bulbs both at 80 watts.
They recommend that if running 54 watt bulbs,to run them as cool as possible to extend the life.
He said as long as they are kept cool enough ,they will wear normally like any other bulb.but if they run hot,the life of the bulb can be really shortened.
Icecaps are awesome ballasts but if you are going to run 54 watters,buy the 54 watt ballasts.
Acording to neptune,icecaps also spike the hell out of the a/c line at first startup.
They recomended to me not to run my icecap 660 on the direct connect because of the initial spike.
Believe me,icecap is a great ballast,but make sure you match wattages to get the most of your lighting.
 
I ran IC660 overdriving 4 T5 bulbs on my 90 mixed reef for many years....worked fine. You should have no problem with that setup on a 75. I even kept clams on the sand. I use to use ATI bulbs exclusively...only because there weren't alot of choices. Overdriving does make the bulbs run around 80w each.
 
The icecaps do overdrive from all my research. You MUST run some sort of cooling fan to keep the bulbs and ballast cool. If the bulbs are overdriven then yes they use more wattage than whats on the bulb. Supposedly if you keep the lamps cool thier life is not drasticaly shortened.One good point is I think the warrenty on icecaps is 3 years as opposed to 1yr on other ballasts.Only bad point I can see is 1 ballast for all lamps as mentioned by someone else. I hope my countless hours of research helps you because I sure can't make up my mind. LOL.

good luck and let us know what you choose.
 
IC is the way to go...They overdrive the bulb a bit but with adequate ventilation you will not see hte degrade of the bulbs pre mature...(BTW...VHO,T5 & PC bulbs have a shorter live span than MH & staight flourescent...8 months is about the peak on them ....They really drop off & shift Kelvin after that!!!...IME that is....
HTH,
B
 
Well first of all, I don't care too much for the Shimmer (spelling?). I just want bright light so I can keep my corals happy. I do want to keep some SPS on the top half of the tank.

If I were to go with T5:
1) Do I have to run the fan all year long (even in the Winter) to cool down the bulbs?
2) I have to replace them every 8 months?
3) I will use Ice Cap SLR reflector with normal T5 ballasts ( don't want to use Icecap 660 to overdrive the bulbs). If I were to go with 6 bulbs configuration (2 blue actinic and 4x10k), Would it produce as much light (brightness, par and spectrum. I am a bit confused in this area) as a Pair of 150 MH (14K phoenix bulb?)

This is the retrofit I am thinking of buying
http://www.reefgeek.com/lighting/T5...5_High-Output_Retrofit_Kit_w!_Bulbs_by_IceCap
the tank is 75 with dimension of 48x18x21H.

Thanks
 
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You can run them for a year & a half if you like....The Mfg. claims they are usable up to that amount of time. If you get an icecap fan it has three speeds....It will spin faster when needed depending on temp in hood!

HTH...B


Oh...on the lighting....That is a little over 3 watts per gal...You should be able to keep some sps in that amount of light...(up high) Not all though!!! Most systems thriving with sps are upwards of 10 watts per gal
BTW...two 03 & four 10k would be a good split...
 
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