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In fear of a flood! Gahhhhh!

Moe_K

Stabbed by Foulke
This evening I was finally able to fire up my return pump and complete the circuit of water from sump to tank and back to sump.
Yay.

Then I noticed the show tank gets really, really full. I've got just a couple of millimeters to work with before the water in the show tank overwhelms the overflows and laps over the tank walls.

The flow from the sump pump is incredible. Got me thinking that if one of the overflows gets clogged, I'll have a serious flood.

When I turn off the pump, the water drains below the overflow, and the top of the water level is more than an inch below the top of the tank's wall.

I think the solution is to slow down the return pump and allow more water to drain out of the show tank.
Am I correct?

Now the big question, how does one slow down the pump without damaging it, and preferably without doing crazy plumbing modifications?
I think I just need to step it down a little, not a lot. The pump is a Reeflo Dart. I've got about 6 or 8 feet of head pressure on there.

Thanks,
Moe
 
In short ball valve or direct flow back to the sump via a t

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I've only done the plumbing on my 40breeder until my dog smashed it, and didn't have this issue, so I really have no idea if this is the right way to do it. When I was building it, I was wondering about how to do it if needed. I found this picture somewhere. Not sure whose tank it is or what website I found it on, so not entirely sure I'm allowed to post it.

Looks like it would work and would be easy enough:
flow control.jpg


I would not do this until some experts chime in....
 
I use a ball valve. I read somewhere at sometime that some Reeflo pumps are more energy efficient with them being dialed back a bit
 
OK, I'll put a ball valve into the line.

I hope it's set it and forget it, right?
Don't need to adjust once I have it set to the right level?
 
I just use a ball valve to slow it down. I also have a float valve it my overflow that shuts down the pump if the water gets to high. I wouldn't run my tank without one. I wouldn't be able to relax.
 
Use a gate valve better control.
 
Yup, with centrifigual water pumps when you restrict the output it does no harm to the pump and actually causes a reduction in electricity consumption (some sort of physics thing, electricity use is dictated by the weight of water moved or something along those lines). Definately use a gate valve for finer control, but a ball valve will work if you want to pick one up locally. Bypass works fine, but then you are paying more for electricty and getting no advantage.

Just be sure to restrict the output and not the inlet to the pump - that will harm the pump.
 
Ok Here are some visual aids of what I have done to prevent flooding, A little background, I have a REEFLO Snapper which is a little underrated for my system, I have about 12 feet of backpressure.. I set this up knowing I will eventually go with the baracuda hybrid... (Just been too lazy to take the plunge) First off, I went with 1 1/4 pvc into 3 returns, (75 gal glass sump with 150 acrylic display) 2 1/14 overflows into 1- 2" inlet, my display water level is 1/2" below the surface... In the event of outage, 30 gal (approx 6") drains into sump due to suction (once again lazieness kicks in when drilling returns). So if you dial back pump and position dursos where water level is about 4" from surface, you will be fine... here are the visual aids photo (1).JPGphoto (2).JPGphoto (3).JPGphoto.JPG
 
hope it helps bud
 
Thanks everyone.

I see jt628 used a true union there - basically a ball valve in a union.
I'm just going to glue a ball valve in my return line - no union.
Am I still honky-dory?
 
Youll be all good Moe. I used a ball valve with a union so i could disconnect and do maitenence but if you dont need one then a straight up ball valve will be fine.
Love my Reeflo barricuda pump its crazy powerful! My ball valve isnt even half open and it powers a media reactor and makes the 12 foot height with ease!
 
Sweet. Thanks, all.
Gluing now.
 
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