Looking to do a DIY Canopy for a 72G Bowfront

[Jennifer]

That was the tricky part. You have to leave the curve front 1/4 panels for last after you have the back sides and the 1in boards all nailed in place. Put glue on the board where the front panels would go. Start at 1 end with the first layer of 1/4 ply square it up and start nailing work your way all the way across the curve nailing as you go. Smear (technical term LOL) with glue and start the process again with the second layer of 1/4 ply. You can leave the ends of the ply a little long and then trim with a jigsaw and sand to leave a nice edge. I own pneumatic finish nailers and brad nailers makes the job go a lot smoother. I made the front hinge up which I did after the whole thing was done and glue had set. This made the front panel a little flimsy so reinforcing was needed (visible in the last pic).

 

[Jennifer]

I could have spent more time sanding and filling holes before I painted. Oh well It works perfect and it matches the look of stand to a T.

 

[pvh]

WOW! That's a lot of work. I'll have to wait to see when I'm in the mode for this project. Thank you Jennifer.

 

[Jennifer]

You are very welcome. It was a bit of work, but if you have the tools and a space to work it will come out fine. I have the tools but unfortunately I had to build it in my driveway.

 

[pvh]

I built the rear part of the canopy this weekend. Now comes the hard part, the front. I need to borrow a pneumatic nail gun and a jig saw. My canopy need to be able to support 45lbs of weight.

 

[Jennifer]

SweeeeeT!
Too Cool

Not long now till the fish get blinded HUH.

 

[vass]

Jennifer has got the basic construction right but the only thing that I would like to change would be not to use regular 1/4 ply and change to 1/4 wacky wood or 3/8 neatform. Both of these meant for bending and dont have a poplar core that will eventually crack and break you face veneer right though the paint or stain. You should double up on the layers and if you use the wacky wood youll need to put your own veneer skin because it is a rough surface. Use 3m's spray adhesive for this. Neatform is 1/8 masonite with a mdf backer the has grooves cut into it so it can bend easily. The only problem with this is that mdf expandes with moisture. But when you think that almost all of the premade stands that stores sell are just particle board you shouldnt have a problem. Go to your local custom kitchen shop and they should have both of these products laying around, if not I do in Mendon. Good Luck and use gorilla glue of titebond three for glue!!!!

 

[pvh]

Thanks...I'm working on the canopy right now...I should have a picture by the weekend.

 

[Jennifer]

Jennifer has got the basic construction right but the only thing that I would like to change would be not to use regular 1/4 ply and change to 1/4 wacky wood or 3/8 neatform. Both of these meant for bending and dont have a poplar core that will eventually crack and break you face veneer right though the paint or stain. You should double up on the layers and if you use the wacky wood youll need to put your own veneer skin because it is a rough surface. Use 3m's spray adhesive for this. Neatform is 1/8 masonite with a mdf backer the has grooves cut into it so it can bend easily. The only problem with this is that mdf expandes with moisture. But when you think that almost all of the premade stands that stores sell are just particle board you shouldnt have a problem. Go to your local custom kitchen shop and they should have both of these products laying around, if not I do in Mendon. Good Luck and use gorilla glue of titebond three for glue!!!!

Actually my method is just fine Thanks.
The 72 bow does not have that sharp a curve to it where you would worry about the 1/4 ply cracking. If I were doing a 46 or 26 bow I would use wacky wood.
Always people think the girl cant know anything about construction can she.

 

[Jennifer]

also it depends on the direction of the grain. In this application because the length of the curve is over 4 ft means you have cut the pieces from the long side of the sheet, which puts the grain running horizontal. Not vertical which would make it more likely to crack.

I really do not like having to defend myself on web chat boards.

PVH I am sure your canopy is coming along nicely. Hope to see some pics.

Thanks - Jenn

 

[pvh]

also it depends on the direction of the grain. In this application because the length of the curve is over 4 ft means you have cut the pieces from the long side of the sheet, which puts the grain running horizontal. Not vertical which would make it more likely to crack.

I really do not like having to defend myself on web chat boards.

PVH I am sure your canopy is coming along nicely. Hope to see some pics.

Thanks - Jenn

Jenn, good observation. I did noticed that the grains had to run horizontal to prevent an crack. However not realizing that the curve will make the overall length a bit shorter <48", I went and bought a piece that was exactly 48" to make the doors. So now I will have a small gap on each side of the canopy. Darn.

 

[Jennifer]

Jenn, good observation. I did noticed that the grains had to run horizontal to prevent an crack. However not realizing that the curve will make the overall length a bit shorter <48", I went and bought a piece that was exactly 48" to make the doors. So now I will have a small gap on each side of the canopy. Darn.

Oops, Oh well. Thats what molding is for. LOL