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Switching Salts for Cyano bloom????

mvallee

Non-member
Battling Cyano for over 2 months and really starting to get me down. I have tried everything I have had suggested and read to do and now considering switching salts.
Back Story;
Tank is just over a year old and wanted to start adding SPS 3-4 months ago, they all browned out, most suggestions were around nutrient control because a lot of my close up pics of the dying coral had GHA on the plugs. Nitrates were about .45 .6 and phosphates .30 so took the tact of adding a GFO and Carbon reactor and limiting feedings. Got nutrients under control with Phos at a constant 0 on my Hanna checker nitrates between .1 and .15 but with the initial Drop I got a Diatom bloom that led to a Cyano plague that I just can not kick. 3 days lights out helped and maybe time to try that again, Cheato and my macro algaes have pretty much stopped growing but still looking healthy so not much for them to feed on, Lowered the light intensity on my reefbreeder LEDS and Ocean Revive LED's with no effect. Weekly water changes of 30 gallons not helping. I even rearranged one of my rock piles to minimize any dead spots and added extra power heads. In my 180G I have 3 jebao PH WP25, WP40 and WP60, The 40 and 60 are on a wave controller tied together to create a side to side wave. and two koralia PH an 850 and 1025 I think plus a 1150GPH return pump from my sump with very little head pressure and the Cyano seems to sway nicely in the added flow :mad:.
I still spend 15-20 minutes blowing Cyano off rocks and corals every 2-3 days to keep tank looking decent and the back wall overflows are covered in the stuff so much effort and getting really disgusted.

Parameters have been good for the past 3+ weeks
PH 8.0 to 8.4 (night vs. day)
Cal 460
KH 9.5 to 9.9
MG 1450
SG 1.026 (refractometer)

My primary food is NLS flakes and Larry's reef frenzy.

I am now thinking about switching salts, currently using Red Sea Coral Pro, switched to this when I decided to try my hand at SPS from IORC and yes I am not slamming the salt I know it is good stuff but maybe the high levels of minerals and such of the salt without much in the way of SPS is contributing to the Cyano?????? Softies are doing really well but a constant battle with Cyano covering them, one of my brains has really not handled this well but my toadstools, Ricordea, Hammer, torch, mushrooms are doing good, I had a scrolling sponge that was really starting to take off before all this and is now pretty bleached looking and not sure it will pull through, Zoa's look good but the cyano does get on them and needs to blown off and one colony is not handling that too well with a section dying back. Fish are doing fantastic and my CUC is doing well though I think with the limited feeding my Blue throat trigger and hawks have been picking them off and not as many snails out and about so going to have to replenish them soon.

What do you think any chance salt could be contributing?
 
#1- don't blow off cyano! It only continues the cycle of spreading it throughout the tank and doesn't remove anything....
#2-instead of the above syphon it out when you do your water changes and even when your not doing your water changes you can stick a sock in your sump and syphon it through that. A lot better way to try and remove the nutrients the cyanobacteria is consuming.
#3- Everytime you do a water change clean your power heads off. Even though people say cyano hates high flow it always grows on power heads and this is a big way it spreads around.
#4- I get this same problem and I have a low nutrient system with predominantly Sps. I am really starting to think it has something to do with either the Gfo or maybe even the phosphates being to low? Not sure? Either way my current solution is setting up a Algae turf scrubber and it's been up and running for 4 days with growth already. Crazy so many things can grow without any of the main nutrients people say they need? P04 and N03.... both are currently reading 0 in my tank and I have a small amount of cyano and stuff growing on my Ats.
Lastly I don't think it's your salt. But also think that Reef Crystals is a great salt for an Sps tank. So I don't think you needed to switch.
 
Thanks I do siphon as much as I can 30 gallon water changes into 5 gallon pails is no fun but my 30' hose to the drain does not have enough suction. I will limit the blowing I can see that adding to the spreading but when stuff gets covered it is hard to look at but will try smaller siphons during the week to address that.

I agree with the GFO comment, from the research I did I slammed the GFO too hard and dropped the phos too fast probably killing off the things that were feeding on the phosphates and higher nitrates causing an imbalance in bacterias and micro organisms in the tank causing the diatom bloom that ended up feeding the initial cyano bloom. I have seen relation to GFO and Cyano on lots of posts but so many people run GFO full time successfully seems like I should too but definitely thinking about with the better husbandry I could try no GFO for a bit.

I am looking at building a cellar sump system and an ATS is at the top of the list of the reasons why.
One of the other reasons I changed salts was because of the brown film left on my mixing containers after mixing a batch. I am hoping to build a more automated mixing station and though that would add to the maintenance of the setup. my tank looked pretty good with IORC and thinking the higher levels in RSCP are not doing anything for me at this point.
 
I agree with the above DO NOT blow the cyno around. Also take a look at some natural reef videos and look closely at the rocks. Not saying leave all the cyno but leave some maybe to keep it in check one small bit is all it will need to colonize
 
I have been using red sea coral pro for salt mix too and i have been having cyano that seems like it does not go away. Im wondering if it could be the salt mix. This is not the first time i have seen this salt mix do this i have read it on rc
 
I like the way red sea mixes so fast, I can make a 5 gallon bucket in 30 minutes if needed so thinking about trying the regular red sea salt instead of the coral pro, I am not blaming the salt just thinking it could be a contributing factor in my tank realizing they are all different.
I have also read a lot about the changes in 02 levels in our homes due to being closed up for the winters, dropping the PH levels in our tanks and causing strange things like Cyano and diatoms, maybe with some nice weather and able to open some windows soon things will go back to normal. fingers crossed.
 
doing a quick Google search came back with lots of hits for RSCP salt as cause but usually turned into much deeper conversations discounting that theory unless it was too fast of a switch from one salt type to another.

Most of the things I read I have tried with the same results as lots of people.
I did not think of sunlight hitting my tank though which seems to be a common cause as the sun changes angles in the sky. I will have to keep an eye on that. Never give up.
 
I used chemiclean after about a month or two of battling cyano. I was really skeptical at first because I hate using chemicals to fix problems. It feels like using a band aid versus a more permanent solution. However, it worked like a charm and I've been cyano free for a month now. I reduced my feedings and I've made sure to get on top of any algae. Just follow the directions and you'll be good. My tank consists of softies and they all survived. My mushrooms shriveled a bit but they came back after I turned my skimmer on and threw in some carbon. This could be a good alternative to completely switching salt mixes.
 
When there's cyano on corals and you don't want to break out the syphon...... Grab the reefers best friend and lifelong companion
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The turkey baster!!!
Lol sorry just trying to add a little humor. But really that's what I use and when I have cyano I sometimes bust out the baster 2 or 3 times a day. The more you remove the better. Imo
 
so do you use the baster to suck the cyano off or blow it off, I have been using one to blow it off everything and suck up the larger pieces as I can catch them floating by,
 
You also might consider adding a strong UV with low flow to kill what's in the water column and prevent the spreading.
 
A uv sterilizer would not help with cyano. I have seen it not work and i have tried it myself.
 
Chemiclean.

Used twice in 2 tanks with SPS,LPS and softies. In 24 hs all gone. Follow instructions !!!! Be careful with the skimmer !!!! . Shut it off, add the product, both times I used 3/4 of the recommended dose. After a,few minutes start the skimmer and be ready to recalibrate it because will do a LOT of bubbles. Can overflow the cup. Recalibrate and do not shut-off. Needed for oxigenation.

Cheers
 
I used 50% of the recommended dose. Instructions say to turn off the skimmer for at least a day. 20% water change after two days. Chemiclean needs time to work so if you turn on the skimmer too early then you will lower the effectiveness. They suggest you wait because the skimmer is needed to take out dead cyano from the water column.

The instructions also say you need airstones to keep the water aerated. I just kept my skimmer running with the collection cup removed. That way the water is plenty oxygenated and chemiclean wasn't being removed from my system before it could do its job. It's a little trick I found while surfing around different forums.
 
I use the baster to suck the cyano off corals. Always seems to grow on my zoas idk why? Maybe lower flow....
I also have used Cemi-clean on a couple occasions and it's worked well and I personally had 0 negative effects from it. I will say though that I believe over time the strain of cyano in your tank can become resistant to the treatment because the first couple times I used it, it worked miracles, but this last time I used it the cyano seemed to sit back and laugh at it! :p
I feel your pain though because I've seemed to always battle cyano and it baffles me as to why it comes back? I use a 5 stage Ro/Di, I run gfo and carbon and I have a oversized skimmer. Nutrients are very low... The person that figures out the cure for cyano will be a rich man/woman...
 
Sounds like cemi clean could be a good option. I had been considering the the red slime remover, same concept.
Thanks for the suggestions all great and somewhat comforting to know so many have had a tough time with this as well, I don't feel like I have failed in some way when so many others have had the same issues with no concrete reason.
 
I used 50% of the recommended dose. Instructions say to turn off the skimmer for at least a day. 20% water change after two days. Chemiclean needs time to work so if you turn on the skimmer too early then you will lower the effectiveness. They suggest you wait because the skimmer is needed to take out dead cyano from the water column.

The instructions also say you need airstones to keep the water aerated. I just kept my skimmer running with the collection cup removed. That way the water is plenty oxygenated and chemiclean wasn't being removed from my system before it could do its job. It's a little trick I found while surfing around different forums.

Good tip the skimmer with cup removed !!!
 
There are also bacterial and enzyme additives but even with those you have to be careful, but better than possibly nuking pods or inverts
 
Good tip the skimmer with cup removed !!!
I raise my skimmer about 2" and hook a ball valve to the air intake. That allows me to continue using the skimmer and hopefully removing the Doc that the Cemi-clean are supposed to bind up. While still keeping good oxygen in the water.
 
I raise my skimmer about 2" and hook a ball valve to the air intake. That allows me to continue using the skimmer and hopefully removing the Doc that the Cemi-clean are supposed to bind up. While still keeping good oxygen in the water.

I raised the gate valve level so the skimmate poured over into the sump. Same concept. After the treatment period I also threw in a bag of activated carbon. I wanted make sure chemiclean was out of my system as fast as possible. People said their skimmer went crazy for a couple days after treatment. Mine was under control after half a day using AC. I tossed the AC after a couple days so nothing could leak back into the water.
 
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