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Led's are a headache!

The 60-48d requires a dimmer to run it. The manual part you adjust in the driver sets the max it will put out. I know this because I have the same ones and has a problem with a manual dimmer.
 
i used 2of these to dim them...............and i just purchased an digital aquatics alc module for leds today.......


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that is not a dimmer. that is a constant current, adjustable voltage power supply. you could set that at 12V and run a few of your fans.

this is what you have:

RadioShack power supply (link)

you cannot use that for dimming. a dimmer/potentiometer acts as a variable resistor. as the resistance (Ohms) increases, current (amperage) decreases and the brightness of the LEDs goes down. as the resistance decreases, the current increases, and the brightness of the LEDs increases.

http://www.ledsupply.com/03023-d-e-1000p.php

check out that driver. these are the ones that i am using. the supply voltage can be 5-32VDC (from the power supply plugged into the wall) depending on how many LEDs you have on a string. the voltage will not change. the potentiometer changes the current going to the LED string.

you should remove those from the circuit and try wiring the LEDs directly to the driver.

so do you have all these components just sitting in a box taken off of the canopy?
 
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Do you have a multimeter?

What I would suggest is to turn them on and check for DC voltage through the heat sink. If there is DC volt you will know for sure that there is stray voltage. To check lead on heat sinc then to grounded area.

Not sure how you wired them if multiple sinks in line you could in theory determine which one is the problem.

As for the fans not spinning vertical position check voltage to them as they may not have enough to start under load.
 
Do you have a multimeter?

What I would suggest is to turn them on and check for DC voltage through the heat sink. If there is DC volt you will know for sure that there is stray voltage. To check lead on heat sinc then to grounded area.

Not sure how you wired them if multiple sinks in line you could in theory determine which one is the problem.

this is a solid suggestion. you will definitely need the assistance of a multimeter to diagnose your problem. if you have the components all taken apart and transportable, i'm willing to check them out for you.
 
those from rapidled would certainly work. those knobs are the potentiometers. looks like each one will control 2 sets of lights
 
no, that is for a digital aquatics reefkeeper control unit.
 
yea i have reefkeeper elite...........
 
(im jealous)

i dont think you can use that to control dimming of an LED fixture but i could be wrong about that because i dont have any experience with RKE units.
 
Digital Aquatics RKM-ALC

Multiple Ports
Serial I/O, 2 x 0-10VDC, 2 x Pod Ports

Serial I/O Port
This port is designed to interface with the Aqua Illumiation LED lighting array.

2 x 0-10VDC Ports
These ports will allow advanced control of dimmable T5 ballasts.

2 x Pod Ports
These ports give the ability to add an additional two Lunar Pods to as system.

Adapter Kit
The ALC now includes the switch adapter kit. Which is a 6' cable that you can cut to length to get two individual cables to wire up dimmable ballasts or the Aqua Illuminations LED arrays.

Tech Specs
AquaIlluminations Control: Six Fixtures Max per RKM-ALC
Connections
Serial In Port Serial Out Port Two 0-10VDC Ports Two Lunar Pod Ports
Physical Details
Dimensions: 1.0" x 2.25" x 4.30"
 
well i already bought the alc......i got a good deal with an sl2 module that reads ph and salinity and the alc for my lighting........couldnt say no...lol
 
where are u in boston anyway? i can bring the led's to u.......
 
I would try to get them going. After you posting how much of a pc of junk they are, I don't think they would be a hot seller. FWIW if you are going to tackle a DIY LED light you really need to know what you are doing. I built 2 back in April, and I got in a little over my head, and I had a pretty good understanding on how they work. I was bailed out by a buddy who knew a lot about them. I also had a bunch blown, but sorry to say its usually from heating them up to much when you soldier them. In the future the thermal epoxy is much faster/better connection. You might want to see if you can look up DoctaQ, he is very knowledgable about LEDS and might be able to help you. I am very happy with mine, but seeing them next to my MH, I like the MH much better. Looking at my electric bill now, I like the LEDS much better.


Good Luck Derek
 
im looking over your setup and at the specs for the driver on ledsupply.com.

so you have 12 individual LEDs wired in series connected to each of the 8 drivers?

so you have 4 heatsinks with 24 LEDs each = 96 LEDs / 8 drivers = 12 LEDs per driver.

it looks like your drivers are rated at 1.3A. what specific LEDs are you using? are they rated for that current?

ok, i see why you were using that power supply for dimming. it makes sense now. the drivers that you have require a 0-10V input signal for dimming. if you supply 3V, you will get 30% light output, if you supply 10V you get 100% light output. so that power supply must have been being used to supply this voltage. this is something that the RKE module can do also.

check this vid:

http://www.reef2reef.com/forums/aquarium-controllers/66693-video-reefkeeper-lite-alc-module-programming.html
 
im more than happy to try to troubleshoot these for you, but would prefer to do it in my own home where all my tools, parts, etc. are.

im taking some graduate classes right now so my time is limited so i cant promise that i'd get to them all in one sitting, but if you can part with them for a week or so, i'm happy to see what i can do.

right now, if you are not supplying voltage to the dim+ and dim- wires on the drivers and the circuit is open, you wont get any illumination.
 
yea...i think u better of taking a look at these...i dont mind if u keep them for a week or two...lol im in no rush! i have my halides so im good..........
 

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