led flood light

[ldam]

has anyone try led flood light
spec look great
was consider replace my MH with it

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aquarium-Re...069?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f24bbd48d
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aquarium-Re...537?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4170001009

 

[stingythingy45]

Alternative to 250 watt halide lamp?
The first link say 350 watt halide.Where's all the sps in the show tank?
I'd use caution on that one.

 

[dz6t]

The same light almost burn a classroom down (it was a popular story on RC IIRC) and 100% stay away.

 

[ldam]

Thats 30w wonder if 50 or 100w would be better
By No mean i'm advertising but i can seem to find any info of a successful reef tank online with it
Would be cheap with 4 of these in 6ft tank Than other led on the market

 

[ldam]

Really didn't know that if you happen to have the rc link can you post it


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[dz6t]

http://www.3reef.com/forums/led-aquarium-lighting/psa-beware-cheap-ebay-fixtures-fire-143027.html

 

[ldam]

Thats that, Thanks for the head up,
I'm looking at a used rapid led 3w 96 led half royal blue/white for my 180gal 6x2x2 do you think that is enough for sps


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[dz6t]

I personally will stay away LED with just blue and white.

 

[jarrodsanborn]

they are multi chip on a single die. !00w on a single die isnt as powerful as 100w spread out over multiple 3w dies because of heat. Id say its more like 80w in comparison.
These lights are pretty poor in spectrum coverage. 20k in led is NOT the same as 20k halide. The leds are missing too much red,green, etc. I would avoid these lights personally.

That being said.....i WOULD use a single 6500k 20w chip with 2 20w royal blue chips flanking the white..... with some 3w chips to add some extra color if ya wanted. that would make for a powerful compact light if you provided a proper heatsink and fan.

here is an example of the chip inside the lights
http://www.ebay.com/itm/100W-High-P...571?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac3bc6c83

 

[higorc]

That just sounds like a lot of work. I am all for LEDs but like Dong said, whites and blues just doesn't cut it anymore. They will grow corals, but you will lose a lot of the Coral colors. Full spectrum LED fixtures have come down in price enough to not have to go through all the hassle you are talking about (no offense intended).

I have been using a Chinese PAR38 full spectrum light I bought on eBay for $80 in my Frag tank for 4 months now, and I have to say they out-perform my AI Sols Blues that I paid $800 a year ago on my DT.

Good luck with your project though, just letting you know what my experience has been with LED. Sometimes we have to go through it our selves though to understand/believe it.

Higor

 

[jarrodsanborn]

That just sounds like a lot of work.

Agreed. The only reasons to use large chips are: less soldering, and single point light vs array lighting. with 3-5 chips you can get great color blending, and avoid the disco ball shimmer. Its just like having a halide over your tank as far as shimmer is concerned.

The ww/cw/rb/nb/uv par38s available nowadays are awesome like you said. Only problem is coverage, and power per watt vs other fixtures like reefbreeders value rigs.

 

[jarrodsanborn]

Lol, we answer idam's question(i hope), and dive down a different lighting discussion path. Nah, were not nerds. Nope, not at all....

 

[amdphenomx4]

Just some stuff to note on the knockoff or unbranded LED emitters like those in the Reefbreeders fixtures and the common multichips:
- The white versions are reasonably close to the modern Cree/Luxeon/Bridgelux(not the fake ones like the Evergrow uses) as in, about 20% less output per watt or so
- The royal blue versions are terrible, literally half the efficiency of modern Cree/Luxeon emitters

As for the general stance on the cheap multichip LEDs, they work if you throw enough power down, but you're bruteforcing the light instead of using LED efficiency to your benefit. Multichip LEDs such as the Luxeon M and Cree MK-R which I'm currently using as a test rig are as efficient as ever and yet take the place of many 3W LEDs, 4 or more each. These LEDs are very good and would be much better than any eBay LED. The math I did was the 6 Luxeon M fixture I am testing has more output than a 50W white and 50W royal blue multichip.

Kessil multichips are a mystery to me as there is little information of the actual chips used.

If you want a cheap halide replacement, you're going to need to spend around 200 dollars per 250W halide.

With my non calibrated DIY PAR meter I was getting around 20% more PAR from a 250W halide at the bottom, but the LEDs also have no optics so it is a 120 degree spread which is a lot for 2 feet. A 7 foot diameter cone of light from each LED at the bottom. If it was focused to 90 degrees it'd easily beat them. My plan is to use 50 degree optics at 1-1.5ft above the water to have good spread and mixing of light.

 

[Bostoreef]

I will not buy from this guy "the_jonvh" . I got his LED light " Bar " ; very cheap build and not defective !!!!. send it back the same day.

 

[Bostoreef]

+1 Full spectrum is the way to go.

 

[Bostoreef]

Just some stuff to note on the knockoff or unbranded LED emitters like those in the Reefbreeders fixtures and the common multichips:
- The white versions are reasonably close to the modern Cree/Luxeon/Bridgelux(not the fake ones like the Evergrow uses) as in, about 20% less output per watt or so
- The royal blue versions are terrible, literally half the efficiency of modern Cree/Luxeon emitters

As for the general stance on the cheap multichip LEDs, they work if you throw enough power down, but you're bruteforcing the light instead of using LED efficiency to your benefit. Multichip LEDs such as the Luxeon M and Cree MK-R which I'm currently using as a test rig are as efficient as ever and yet take the place of many 3W LEDs, 4 or more each. These LEDs are very good and would be much better than any eBay LED. The math I did was the 6 Luxeon M fixture I am testing has more output than a 50W white and 50W royal blue multichip.

Kessil multichips are a mystery to me as there is little information of the actual chips used.

If you want a cheap halide replacement, you're going to need to spend around 200 dollars per 250W halide.

With my non calibrated DIY PAR meter I was getting around 20% more PAR from a 250W halide at the bottom, but the LEDs also have no optics so it is a 120 degree spread which is a lot for 2 feet. A 7 foot diameter cone of light from each LED at the bottom. If it was focused to 90 degrees it'd easily beat them. My plan is to use 50 degree optics at 1-1.5ft above the water to have good spread and mixing of light.

I have Evergrow IT2080 and IT2060.
I use the IT2080 on my 65G 24'' deep tank: I have it set at About 35% Max. ---> About 75Watt Not bad at all.

 

[dz6t]

With my non calibrated DIY PAR meter I was getting around 20% more PAR from a 250W halide at the bottom, .

It also depend on what brand and color of the 250w halide bulb you compare to.

Using the club's light meter, light hangs at 1 feet from water surface, the par meter reading right right below the water surface for 250w halide as following for comparison:

Phoenix 14K Single end: ~500
Phoenix 14K double end:~380
Giesemann 13K (more like a 10K in color); ~850 (WTF)
XM 14K: ~250

 

[amdphenomx4]

I have Evergrow IT2080 and IT2060.
I use the IT2080 on my 65G 24'' deep tank: I have it set at About 35% Max. ---> About 75Watt Not bad at all.

As I said above, they'll work if you give them enough power. Have you measured PAR at all?

It also depend on what brand and color of the 250w halide bulb you compare to.

Using the club's light meter, light hangs at 1 feet from water surface, the par meter reading right right below the water surface for 250w halide as following for comparison:

Phoenix 14K Single end: ~500
Phoenix 14K double end:~380
Giesemann 13K (more like a 10K in color); ~850 (WTF)
XM 14K: ~250

Yea, it's a simple DIY PAR meter I made a few months ago to check LED output. The lamps are 250W 12000K Coralvue mogul bulbs on terrible spider reflectors. It may be off by a bit, but it will be off linearly, not exponentially. At least for comparison purposes it works fine for what I'm doing.

 

[higorc]

Oh man...this is totalling deviating from the original question people...Let's not make this another LED light debate for the sake of Idam's original question....

Higor's EVO 3D

 

[dz6t]

Back to the original topic, stay away from these fire hazards.