LED lights in the UV range, questions and thoughts?

[Coffee with Mango]

I've been reading a lot about whether zooxanthellae make use of UV light (at and below 400 nm) and based on articles in AdvancedAquarist.com, they seem to use it very efficiently. If I recall, this is also the wavelength that penetrates deepest into the water.

The action looks something like this:



So why is it so hard to find products that hit this range? The only LED fixture I can find that hits this range is the new AI Hydra with 400 nm chips. The only T5 bulb that I can find that hits this range is KZ Fiji Purple (with the added bonus of a touch of red at 660-670 nm).

The agriculture industry seems to have latched onto this range. I found this interesting well-priced 48" water-resistant LED bar that targets the 380 nm to 500 nm range exclusively:




Would this be a good way to supplement LED products currently available to the aquarium industry? How much UV is too much UV? Would going into this range help control diseases? Would it kill off beneficial tank bacteria? How can I measure how much is getting to the corals if regular PAR meters don't tell the story in this nm range?

 

[reefstarter]

From what I know led chips in that range are expensive to make and I thought way too much for corals . I think more needs to be looked in to on this subject. Here is spectrum of a radium bulb
http://www.personal.psu.edu/faculty...talHalideLamps2_files/photo3_files/f2fig3.jpg

 

[dz6t]

AgroMax use 400nM diodes as their lowest wavelength. Same as AI hydra.
400nM diode "spills" over to sub-400 nM.

 

[Coffee with Mango]

Yes, the 400 nm diode seems to run 350 to 450 nm. But it is hard to find in fixtures except for the new AI Hydra 52 HD.

What I am thinking is that I can buy the reefbreeder photon v2 for about $600 that will cover my 48" tank -- but which lacks the 400 nm diode -- but add one 48" agromax for $180 that has a strong 350-450 nm range and get my whole tank well-covered for $800 instead of $1300.

Here is an interesting article on LEDs and the wavelengths below 420 nm and how zooxanthallae use them, and how corals produce sunscreen for the UVA range (Dana Riddle):

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2014/5/aafeature

 

[cilyjr]

The ati purple plus hits the 400nm range. It's very similar to the figi purple.
I use 2 to supplement my older sol blues which lack both 390nm and 650nm areas.

 

[G.T]

I just got a light from SB Reef Lights. They use below 400nms wavelength to a great effect.

So what makes this spectrum so great, besides the great aesthetics it provides? Simple, where most black boxes like MarsAqua, GalaxyHydro, Reef Radiance, Evergrow and Reef Breeders use a shotgun method approach, loading in as many different diodes as possible, hoping to hit the right wavelengths!


The cross point of Chlorophyll A and C is 447nm, that is where Zooxanthallae are most efficient. We hit it very hard. Also note 420nm is where Chlorophyll A peaks and we hit that hard as well. We have more 420nm than any other black box. Also note 420nm is a trigger wavelength that tricks corals into thinking they are in shallower water, resulting in development of more protective pigment "Color". Note we don't hit the 470nm peak of Chlorophyll C as hard, there is a valid reason for this. Chlorophyll C saturates at a lower photon energy, and has a much lower density in most typical corals than Chlorophyll A. This means adding more energy there adds no value after a point. Instead we do something no other black box lights do, we hit the secondary absorption point of the cartenoids present in the Chloroplast hard. The cartenoids absorb the 490nm wavelength and convert the energy into a source the chloroplast can better use. The Cartenoid Peridinin is present in higher concentration than Chlorophyll C as well. We also hit the 660nm peaks of Chlorophyll A&C.


Finally we have 395nm True UV, which not only adds to coral fluorescence, but development of protective color pigments by again tricking the coral into thinking it's in shallower water. The issue with true UVs though is that the UV actually destroys the lens over time. We have solved this problem by finding a better quality diode with a silica lens instead of plastic. Makes for a little more expensive diode, but it will last more than the 1 year max you get out of a typical plastic lens.


For our white channel, we have just enough green and warm whites (yellow) for aesthetics, with the bulk of diodes in the 14K range. We also have 20K diodes, something no other black box has. This provides for a crisp white with hints of blue.That means our light provides more PUR than any other black box, while helping to provide coral coloration only possible with T5s before. It also allows you to run an even spread form channel to channel with a crisp 14K look. Dial the white down a tad and you're at 20K.


Not all black boxes are created equal! We will put our growth rates and coral color up against any LED, even the trendy high priced fixtures. Add to that quieter fans that have higher CFM for cooler operating temperatures and longer diode life, Built in mounting legs and hanging kit, and finally a 2 YEAR USA WARRANTY!! All for much less than other premium black boxes.

 

[Coffee with Mango]

Interesting what SB reef lights has. So what is the consequence of getting a product with Epistar diodes instead of CREE?

 

[Joe Rice]

I just got a light from SB Reef Lights.

How noisy are the fans?

Also this is interesting from their web site:

"*Note the 2 year warranty does not cover the 395nm True UV diode. It is warrantied for 1 year. True UV diodes have a much shorter life span. Most less than one year. Ours have a silica lens cap instead of plastic so life will be much longer which is why we can go 1 year. You should get 2 to 3 years. However should one burn out out after one year we will sell you replacement diodes at cost. They are simple to solder in."

Admirable that they are being so honest about this. Many companies would probably figure that few customers would ever notice.

 

[Coffee with Mango]

G.T.. I just saw your video post on the other thread -- your tank is gorgeous. Thank you for pointing out this option for me.

 

[Coffee with Mango]

Simple to solder in? Really? I'm lucky I know what a soldering iron is never mind using it properly.

 

[dz6t]

UVL super actinic t5

 

[dz6t]

Instead of solder UV led chip every year, simply suppliment with UVL super actinic t5

 

[dz6t]

How noisy are the fans?

Also this is interesting from their web site:

"*Note the 2 year warranty does not cover the 395nm True UV diode. It is warrantied for 1 year. True UV diodes have a much shorter life span. Most less than one year. Ours have a silica lens cap instead of plastic so life will be much longer which is why we can go 1 year. You should get 2 to 3 years. However should one burn out out after one year we will sell you replacement diodes at cost. They are simple to solder in."

Admirable that they are being so honest about this. Many companies would probably figure that few customers would ever notice.

There is really not much difference in 395nM vs 400nM.
There is no magic in 5 nM

 

[dz6t]

Yes, the 400 nm diode seems to run 350 to 450 nm. But it is hard to find in fixtures except for the new AI Hydra 52 HD.

Actually, all AI Hydra series has the 400 nM diodes. From the original Hydra, to Hydra 26 and 52, then Hydra 26HD/52HD.

 

[dz6t]

Admirable that they are being so honest about this. Many companies would probably figure that few customers would ever notice.

Everyone will notice it so better be up front.
I used to have two LED fixture came with true UV LED diodes. All UV diodes burnt out just in 4 month. That is 8 chips that burnt out like a clock work. Also they "cured" the lens caps into yellow.

 

[Coffee with Mango]

Everyone will notice it so better be up front.
I used to have two LED fixture came with true UV LED diodes. All UV diodes burnt out just in 4 month. That is 8 chips that burnt out like a clock work. Also they "cured" the lens caps into yellow.

Are the 400 nm diodes any different from the 395 nm diodes in this respect? Why are 395 nm diodes miserable but 400 nm are not?

I have 405 nm diodes in my purple wave Buildmyled fixture and they haven't burned out for the two + years that I've owned them.. I can't honestly tell if they've faded at all though. My corals look great. My stylo is hot pink and growing out of the water.

 

[dz6t]

Are the 400 nm diodes any different from the 395 nm diodes in this respect? Why are 395 nm diodes miserable but 400 nm are not?

I have 405 nm diodes in my purple wave Buildmyled fixture and they haven't burned out for the two + years that I've owned them.. I can't honestly tell if they've faded at all though. My corals look great. My stylo is hot pink and growing out of the water.

I have Hydra with 400nM diodes that lasted for three years so far.
The good quality UV LED are normally quite expensive, I guess if they use those inexpensive UV LED generally used for pet urine detector, the result can be quite different.

 

[G.T]

How noisy are the fans?

Also this is interesting from their web site:

"*Note the 2 year warranty does not cover the 395nm True UV diode. It is warrantied for 1 year. True UV diodes have a much shorter life span. Most less than one year. Ours have a silica lens cap instead of plastic so life will be much longer which is why we can go 1 year. You should get 2 to 3 years. However should one burn out out after one year we will sell you replacement diodes at cost. They are simple to solder in."

Admirable that they are being so honest about this. Many companies would probably figure that few customers would ever notice.

Fans are quiet, i am more than pleased. I was expecting to put the 400 halide back on lol

 

[G.T]

Simple to solder in? Really? I'm lucky I know what a soldering iron is never mind using it properly.

I just changed 9 diodes/leds in another fixture. First time at swapping out diodes. I found that you need a quality soldering Tool, as the heatsink removes the Heat from the tip quite fast. So a high wattage soldering iron is needed. I replaced 9x 455 465 NMS. So no coloured leds in the fixture i modded. Plus i removed the 2 uvs, as this unit is not adjustable and the corals under the uvs only bleached out!

 

[G.T]

G.T.. I just saw your video post on the other thread -- your tank is gorgeous. Thank you for pointing out this option for me.

Your Welcome, and Thank you. I will be posting a video tomorrow, which is 14 days since Led fittment, from the 400 watt Halide. Please subscribe. Its very important lol