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LED lights in the UV range, questions and thoughts?
- Thread starter Coffee with Mango
- Start date
I second that request -- I would love to see a video tutorial on how to swap out old diodes and do the soldering, etc. In my mind, this is the biggest shortcoming of LEDs at this point.
That would be great RMc.
Right now, It looks like I will probably get the 48" Photon V2 custom made with the 405nm chips replacing half of the 420 nm chips. At only 8" front to back, that gives me lots of room to supplement with my beloved Fiji Purple T5 bulb and a second bulb to balance out any other aesthetic needs that might be apparent.
I did notice that ReefBreeders says that the CREE diodes they are now using cannot be soldered by hand -- meaning that even if I was willing to learn how to do that, I apparently would not be able to do that. Has anyone ever swapped out a CREE diode?
Right now, It looks like I will probably get the 48" Photon V2 custom made with the 405nm chips replacing half of the 420 nm chips. At only 8" front to back, that gives me lots of room to supplement with my beloved Fiji Purple T5 bulb and a second bulb to balance out any other aesthetic needs that might be apparent.
I did notice that ReefBreeders says that the CREE diodes they are now using cannot be soldered by hand -- meaning that even if I was willing to learn how to do that, I apparently would not be able to do that. Has anyone ever swapped out a CREE diode?
I just want to keep this stylo looking like this. When I bought it, it was purple with beige background. Now the whole thing -- polyps and background -- is hot pink. My chromis loves it too. This coral has been under the 405 chips (among others) in my 38 gallon.
In case they burn out -- I don't want to toss the whole fixture.
Yes -- but any of them could fail. If any of the CREE diodes fail, apparently I can't replace them myself (assuming I learn how to solder). What will happen with your Hydras when the warranty is up and some of the diodes fail? Same problem.
I don't think you're getting my point. They are ALL going to fail eventually -- no matter what premium you pay. Then the fixture needs to be tossed.
I see, that applies to all fixtures on the market.
Some LED fixtures are user upgradable such as Ecotech and AI.
Some LED fixtures will rust before their led chips fail. Such as eBay black boxes.
Metal Halides and t-5 are lasting much longer because you replace the bulbs.
Some LED fixtures are user upgradable such as Ecotech and AI.
Some LED fixtures will rust before their led chips fail. Such as eBay black boxes.
Metal Halides and t-5 are lasting much longer because you replace the bulbs.
How are AI user upgradeable?
AI are designed like that. They share the same heat sink designs. There are two platforms.
You can buy upgrade kits from AI and DIY.
All you need is a screw driver.
The original AI Sol has these upgrade path:
AI-SOl to AI Vega to AI Hydra to AI Hydra 52 then AI Hydra 52HD.
AI Hydra 26 to AI Hydra 26HD.
You can buy upgrade kits from AI and DIY.
All you need is a screw driver.
The original AI Sol has these upgrade path:
AI-SOl to AI Vega to AI Hydra to AI Hydra 52 then AI Hydra 52HD.
AI Hydra 26 to AI Hydra 26HD.
G.T
Salt Alien
What wattage solder iron are you using? Do you use solder wick, or a sucker? lol To the folks who may think that sounds crazy, the solder or as much solder as possible needs to be removed. You can either use a wick, which is a copper braid, which when applied to the solder and heat. The wick sucks up the solder. Or you can use a sucker, you melt the solder then this sucktion device sucks the molten solder away from the diode bead. RMc do you get the same issues with the heat transfering to the heatsink?
Where are you based?
Seriously? I was just at your house! How did you even get it so fast?
Well, I've pretty much decided to get it with the modification of swapping out some of the 420's for the 405's. I just need to place the order. With this modification, it's pretty much exactly what I'm looking for.
