UV sterilizer?

[charbel1011]

Hello everyone. Im still in the process of working on my build. And im install an aquacleat uv sterilizer 57 watt for 200 gallons waterbox. I want to know whats the best effective way to plumb it? Im very noob at plumbing. So please walk me through it. I bought a vectra s2 pump for it 1400 gph. Separate pump. This is how its mounted right now. Should i use the manifold? Or should i pull water from the skimmer chamber, and dump in return or wouldn’t that be effective against algae, diatoms etc… i dont want to plumb it with the return pump, as i want full control over the UV.

 

[rock-n-reef]

If the tank has two return lines going back to the tank, I would highly suggest plumbing one of the return lines through the UV (Return Pump >> UV >> Tank). That way you can keep the flow rate through the UV whatever you want, and the other return can have the high flow to the tank.

Also when mounting the UV, you would want to keep that at an angle with the water output from the UV higher than the input line. The reason for doing that is, you want the UV chamber and the bulb to be fully submerged in the water, or otherwise it could heat up and melt the outer chamber. If keeping that horizontal, you will end up with air pocket inside and the UV not functioning correctly.

From the picture, I cannot see where the bulb connector is. Make sure it is in a location that allows you to fully remove the bulb as well as the quartz sleeve easily for maintenence.

 

[charbel1011]

If the tank has two return lines going back to the tank, I would highly suggest plumbing one of the return lines through the UV (Return Pump >> UV >> Tank). That way you can keep the flow rate through the UV whatever you want, and the other return can have the high flow to the tank.

Also when mounting the UV, you would want to keep that at an angle with the water output from the UV higher than the input line. The reason for doing that is, you want the UV chamber and the bulb to be fully submerged in the water, or otherwise it could heat up and melt the outer chamber. If keeping that horizontal, you will end up with air pocket inside and the UV not functioning correctly.

From the picture, I cannot see where the bulb connector is. Make sure it is in a location that allows you to fully remove the bulb as well as the quartz sleeve easily for maintenence.

I have full access to the bulb. However i have no space for the UV to be mounted vertically.

 

[DylanCameron]

I have full access to the bulb. However i have no space for the UV to be mounted vertically.

It doesn’t need to be completely vertical, a slight angle will allow the air bubbles to escape

 

[Cooper2]

I feel better mounting mine so at least one port is vertical. They make a version called the “twist” that allows rotating the body to change port clock position. It looks like yours isn’t that style, so just point your outlets skyward. That will prevent it from only filling halfway and holding on to an air pocket. I like your use of the tool bracket to hold it. I found PVC pipe hangers at Home Depot work really well too and are inexpensive. The first time I installed an Aqua 25 watt unit I used an apex flow monitor and gate valve as I was concerned about flow rate to target ich. I came to realize it was overkill as those reducers on the unit essentially throttle it at about 350gph. It was nice to have an extra gate valve once I realized it wasn’t really needed.

 

[Cooper2]

I should also mention that when I removed the flow sensor and vgate valve I used a small DC pump dedicated for the sterilizer and the outlet is a second return to the tank. My thinking was if my main return pump failed or needs cleaning, the second pump will still be moving water for redundancy. It helps me sleep at night…lol

 

[charbel1011]

If the tank has two return lines going back to the tank, I would highly suggest plumbing one of the return lines through the UV (Return Pump >> UV >> Tank). That way you can keep the flow rate through the UV whatever you want, and the other return can have the high flow to the tank.

Also when mounting the UV, you would want to keep that at an angle with the water output from the UV higher than the input line. The reason for doing that is, you want the UV chamber and the bulb to be fully submerged in the water, or otherwise it could heat up and melt the outer chamber. If keeping that horizontal, you will end up with air pocket inside and the UV not functioning correctly.

From the picture, I cannot see where the bulb connector is. Make sure it is in a location that allows you to fully remove the bulb as well as the quartz sleeve easily for maintenence.

Now the thing is everything for waterbox is metric, and the most annoying thing ever. If i want to add the UV to the main return pump, i have to do a lot of modification and reducing to make it work. I was really hoping to put a pump for the UV in the skimmer chamber, and let it empty in the return pump. But that isnt effective at all for algae right? It has to be plugged at the main return?

 

[Cooper2]

Opinions will vary so take them all with a grain of salt…..pun intended..lol
I like the idea of increasing turnover in the display with a second dedicated return. If that’s too involved then be assured dumping the output into the return chamber is still ok. With regard to the metric to American fittings, I like using silicone tubing for adaptation. It also allows removal for disassembly and deeper cleanings. If you have limited real estate or just feel better using PVC to adapt, I’m happy to help you with creating the correct fitting. I have a shop and can basically rebore the socket of a T or elbow, as well as turn down American PVC to a metric diameter. 1” food grade silicone tubing isn’t too pricy and my go to favorite for this issue.

 

[rock-n-reef]

Now the thing is everything for waterbox is metric, and the most annoying thing ever. If i want to add the UV to the main return pump, i have to do a lot of modification and reducing to make it work. I was really hoping to put a pump for the UV in the skimmer chamber, and let it empty in the return pump. But that isnt effective at all for algae right? It has to be plugged at the main return?

Yeah, the metric fittings are a pain.

That would still work. I wouldn't worry too much about it. I have seen folks run it that way as well.

 

[charbel1011]

Opinions will vary so take them all with a grain of salt…..pun intended..lol
I like the idea of increasing turnover in the display with a second dedicated return. If that’s too involved then be assured dumping the output into the return chamber is still ok. With regard to the metric to American fittings, I like using silicone tubing for adaptation. It also allows removal for disassembly and deeper cleanings. If you have limited real estate or just feel better using PVC to adapt, I’m happy to help you with creating the correct fitting. I have a shop and can basically rebore the socket of a T or elbow, as well as turn down American PVC to a metric diameter. 1” food grade silicone tubing isn’t too pricy and my go to favorite for this issue.

Thats what im using silicon tubing. So heres a pic for my setup so far i have the UV mounted at the back i have a manifold system with 1/2 output barb. Like how do i connect my UV to make it effective. I do have another return pump vectra s2 (1400gph) my main return pump is vectra m2 (2000gph) if i can put that manifold to use that would be awesome. I really like the idea of the UV. But i dont want to complicate things. So my hose for the return pump is metric its some weird metric size 32mm 1-1/4 i dont even know whats that size had to use a plastic clamp for the return pump. The barb fitting on the manifold is 1/2 so its all weird sizes. Im a plumbing noob. So im not sure how to put my secone pump and manifold to use.

 

[Cooper2]

It’s ok to vary things when what you have isn’t ideal according to common instructions. I have a few of the 25 watt Aqua units and I know the flow rate desired in the instructions was 350 gps for targeting ick. The 3/4” fittings supplied sort of act like restrictions keeping the flow rate slow. If you feed it from a 1/2” barb you will slow the flow even further. If you can, replace the 1/2” barb with a 3/4” on your manifold and run 3/4”ID silicone tube to connect. You can dump the output of the UV into the return chamber, but I expect the final return volume to your display will be sort of weak. I’d run another return up to display to keep turnover high. Maybe you can use an old J tube return for temporary run and see if you find the out put is best returned to the display instead of “recirculating” in your sump at the expense of GPH to the display. This is another great point of the silicone tubing, throw it together and see if you like the results, then put it together nice when you know it works.

 

[charbel1011]

It’s ok to vary things when what you have isn’t ideal according to common instructions. I have a few of the 25 watt Aqua units and I know the flow rate desired in the instructions was 350 gps for targeting ick. The 3/4” fittings supplied sort of act like restrictions keeping the flow rate slow. If you feed it from a 1/2” barb you will slow the flow even further. If you can, replace the 1/2” barb with a 3/4” on your manifold and run 3/4”ID silicone tube to connect. You can dump the output of the UV into the return chamber, but I expect the final return volume to your display will be sort of weak. I’d run another return up to display to keep turnover high. Maybe you can use an old J tube return for temporary run and see if you find the out put is best returned to the display instead of “recirculating” in your sump at the expense of GPH to the display. This is another great point of the silicone tubing, throw it together and see if you like the results, then put it together nice when you know it works.

Thank you cooper for your advice. It does seem like i might be complicating things. I forgot to mention that my sump total volume is 50 gallons so if i add a Vectra s2 in the skimmer chamber area to the return chamber area i might actually be fine. The tank is also brand new not even water in yet. I might run it this way and see results for myself

 

[BiGGiePauls33]

What's the total water volume of you system?

 

[charbel1011]

What's the total water volume of you system?

200 gallons. Empty. After that with rocks im not too positive

 

[BiGGiePauls33]

Was just curious why you got a UV rated for 355 gallons and not go with the 40 watt.

 

[charbel1011]

Was just curious why you got a UV rated for 355 gallons and not go with the 40 watt.

Because the 40 watts is super long and i dont know ehy

 

[charbel1011]

I feel better mounting mine so at least one port is vertical. They make a version called the “twist” that allows rotating the body to change port clock position. It looks like yours isn’t that style, so just point your outlets skyward. That will prevent it from only filling halfway and holding on to an air pocket. I like your use of the tool bracket to hold it. I found PVC pipe hangers at Home Depot work really well too and are inexpensive. The first time I installed an Aqua 25 watt unit I used an apex flow monitor and gate valve as I was concerned about flow rate to target ich. I came to realize it was overkill as those reducers on the unit essentially throttle it at about 350gph. It was nice to have an extra gate valve once I realized it wasn’t really needed.

Cooper question. Is it possible to have a seperate pump in the sump plumbed to the flow meter and then UV and then have the UV shoots up at the back of the display tank. Directly to the tank above?

 

[Cooper2]

Yes, and that's how I run mine. I don't bother with the flow monitor any longer as the 3/4" fittings restrict flow pretty close to desired rate of 350gph to target Ich, I came to realize it was a waste of a gate valve and real estate around the sump. I also like the fact if one return pump fails the other will sustain my tank until the problem can be resolved. It's also pretty nice that you can pull either pump for cleaning and maintenance and still have flow while doing it. I travel for work and only home on the weekends, so redundancy is really important to me. Every component will fail, it's just a matter of time, so I try to encompass a failsafe scenario in any way I can to make sure I come home to happy tanks and don't need to take up golf or something.....lol

 

[charbel1011]

Yes, and that's how I run mine. I don't bother with the flow monitor any longer as the 3/4" fittings restrict flow pretty close to desired rate of 350gph to target Ich, I came to realize it was a waste of a gate valve and real estate around the sump. I also like the fact if one return pump fails the other will sustain my tank until the problem can be resolved. It's also pretty nice that you can pull either pump for cleaning and maintenance and still have flow while doing it. I travel for work and only home on the weekends, so redundancy is really important to me. Every component will fail, it's just a matter of time, so I try to encompass a failsafe scenario in any way I can to make sure I come home to happy tanks and don't need to take up golf or something.....lol

Not my setup but woukd something like that works?

 

[Cooper2]

Other than the metal hose clamps that will likely rust?......yes, that's a setup I would run. I'd advise positioning the body in such a way that bulb replacement doesn't require removal, but I know sometimes there isn't enough room.