• ******* To read about the changes to the marketplace click here

Nitrate Reduction Methods

ive heard salinity swings can brown corals is there any chance of ph or alc swings? i think that might do it? hmmm.....
 
Last edited:
There should be no swing in salinity since I'm running an ATO that is pretty accurate to a point where if I take a spoon of water out the tank, it would trigger the refill.

PH however does swing. 8.0 at the lowest to 8.26. I don't think it's that crazy of a swing.

ive heard salinity swings can brown corals is there any chance of ph or alc swings? i think that might do it? hmmm.....
 
ALK, CA, and MG are pretty much constant at 10dkh, 420, and 1200 because of Ca Reactor.
 
Not sure if I remember the deatils but I recall something about low iron levels causing macroalgae to stop growing and/or die off
 
I have to agree. 5-10 isn't high enough to harm anything imo/ime. I'd be willing to bet most people would be very surprised at the results of a nitrate test in their system. With the fish load in mine, I'm happy to get a reading that is within the color chart. :D

Ditto! :rolleyes:
 
How are you about doing consistent water changes?

I only ask because my exp has been that even when all the tests come out good, if SPS seems unhappy, a couple of good water changes often makes it happier. (not that I'm any acro pro, and not that I'm very good about water changes in the first place....) Plenty of stuff in there that we cannot, or do not test for that could be getting depleted, or accumulated, over time.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Just a thought,but how about the lighting.
Is there a possibility that the ballast is going and not push very much PAR?
How old is the bulb?
How's the temp swing of the tank from halide on and off?
The SPS you tried,could it have just got shocked by the lighting?
Did you try starting it down low at first,then move it up the rock?
Lastly,why give up?I'd just systematically work through the system till I found the problem.Otherwise I'd always wonder what caused it.
Also,try a few SPS in different areas.
 
If the chaeto is dying, that may be your source of excess nutrients right there.

I've heard of a few people having good success lowering nitrates with plumbing a deep sand bed(a Brute trash can 1/2-3/4 full)to their system. Wet skimming should help with phosphates also.

I'm with Don. :D Put a brute trash can in line with your system and call it a day, Nick. :p Right beside the stand is a good place for it. ;)
 
I'm with Don. :D Put a brute trash can in line with your system and call it a day, Nick. :p Right beside the stand is a good place for it. ;)

shhh thats where im hiding mind too :o ooohhhh nooo i think im turning in to one of those crazy reefers guys!!!
 
For my new SPS dominant system, I'm going to be taking a much different route than I have in the past. I'm going to be aiming for a super low nutrient level using bacteria, carbon source, and amino acid dosing. I've been following a few people on RC who are using this method and getting excellent results so it's something I want to try. I've been in the hobby/industry off and on for 20 years now and there are many ways to "skin the cat". This is just something different I want to try.

For my bacteria, I am going to be using Brightwell's Microbacter7 and I will be using 80-proof vodka as my carbon source.
 
I had a problem with my SPS not being happy too. Before beginning zeovit I checked all of my water parameters. The usual suspects were ok but I found potassium to be very low. It was down to around 200 ppm when it's supposed to be between 380 and 410 ppm. After I brought it back to where it was supposed to be things began improving.
 
When running GFO thru a reactor, how often do you change it? Just wondering. Do you wait until your levels rise? Or is it only good for a set amount of time?
 
I'm very inconsistent with my water changes. Sometime 2 months, sometime 3 months or 4 months. I'll start my weekly waterchange now since I want to do this sps thing right. But then, I heard people haven't changed their water for 6 months and their sps is doing great.

How are you about doing consistent water changes?

The fixture was upgraded from an Geisman to an Elos. The ballast is the same and bulb is the same brand.
I do not like to stick my hand in the tank too often. Once I've placed a coral, it stayed there. But I have had different acros placed in different location and they all browned out.

Just a thought,but how about the lighting.
Is there a possibility that the ballast is going and not push very much PAR?
How old is the bulb?
How's the temp swing of the tank from halide on and off?
The SPS you tried,could it have just got shocked by the lighting?
Did you try starting it down low at first,then move it up the rock?
Lastly,why give up?I'd just systematically work through the system till I found the problem.Otherwise I'd always wonder what caused it.
Also,try a few SPS in different areas.


I've been reading about this MB7 and Vodka system and want to give it a try too. But chemical methodology is my last resort.
For my bacteria, I am going to be using Brightwell's Microbacter7 and I will be using 80-proof vodka as my carbon source.

Never checked my Potassium level.
I had a problem with my SPS not being happy too. Before beginning zeovit I checked all of my water parameters. The usual suspects were ok but I found potassium to be very low. It was down to around 200 ppm when it's supposed to be between 380 and 410 ppm. After I brought it back to where it was supposed to be things began improving.
 
Okay, really sick of doing water changes to bring down the nitrate. I will get a bottle of Vodka tonight! Will see how it goes.
 
Hey, who asked ya? :p

LOL. I wasn't cracking on your suggestion. I was attempting to say that there's NO WAY Nick would have something like that near his display. :D Unless of course, it had "Elos" factory engraved on the side of it. LOL! HAHA! I'm sorry Nick. It feels like "Pick on Nick" day for me. :D :p
 
Back
Top