Still dealing with cyano trouble, I think?

[dcforester1]

I have been dealing with cyan(I think) for about a month now. I have cut way back on feedings, cut way back on lights. I was doing 1/3 water changes every 3days, bbut was told to cut back on that, and still have it.

About 2 weeks ago I started with Brightwells Bio-fuel, similar to vodka dosing. It has lowered my Nitrates (10), and Phosphates(.5-.25), but Im still having trouble.

All my levels are good, what do I do at this point? Do I just continue, as if its not there, and let it run its course?

Do I totaly eliminate light, and/or feedings?

Should I get something that will remove it. Things are starting to suffer in my tank, My Dendros, and Duncans havnt opened in about a week. I am starting to get discouraged, and dont know what direction to go in.

Someone said it could be caused from bad bulbs, I ordered some , and they will be in today, or tommorow.


I started to get the problems when I put the MP40 in. I am wondering if the change in the amount of flow in the tank is part of the problem. I had 4 Maxijets before, with 2 modified. I know the MP40 is more flow, but before I had more of the tank covered.

Any ideas on how long it hangs around? Is this a normal amount of time, or am I doing something wrong.

TIA Derek

 

[Blueflu1]

I am with you. I am battling it too. I just got new Resin, a new filter and new carbon blocks for my RODI today. Gonna see if that takes care of it.

 

[dcforester1]

It looks like a bunch of Anthelia is getting smaller. It is opening up, and looks healthy, but the patch of it is smaller. After 90% of my chaeto died. I had a small piece the size of a golfball left, and now its growing. So whatever killed the rest, didnt kill it all.

 

[delta]

If it is starting to effect your corals then you might consider trying a quick fix for the short term until you get your nutrients under control. Chemi-clean or red slime remover will both work short term. But if you do not deal with the nutrient problem then it will just come back.

But I would do weekly water changes 25%, siphon all detritus out & blow out all the live rock with a pH before draining the water for the water change. Keep your skimmer in top working order. light feedings. and if you have to, treat with a quick fix.

This won't happen overnight it can take a least a few months for things to get back into order.

 

[dcforester1]

Thanks Delta, I have cut way back on those things. I have a new skimmer, but cant seem to get it to work right. I just ordered a gate valve for it. It produces foam, but it just doesnt go over the top. If I adjust it any higher the tube comes out. Its a Euro Reef. I just didnt know if it would take weeks, or months. Thanks Derek

 

[Leroy]

Some would disagree with the use of chemicals and do everything as suggested in prior posts. Cut back on feedings, cut back on lights, add more flow, water changes. The spores from the cyano are still in the tank. Here's what has worked for many I've discussed about the bacteria and the treatment I've done to help other hobbyists:

Chemi Clean. Read, read the directions, remove all carbon and phosgen/chemi pure and shut down a UV sterilizer if used. Shut off skimmer. Be ready to do a 20% water change after 48 hrs. Add an airstone since the chemical has the tendency to deplete oxygen from the water. After 48 hrs do your water change, replace carbon and turn on the skimmer which is going to over foam and will need to be elevated and need some adjusting as it foams like mad from some of the chemical left in the water for a few days. Sometimes a second treatment will be needed if the cyano is over run in the tank. Make sure your water change calcium, alkalinity and magnesium match your tanks parameters so not to stress your tank from a large water change.

 

[Takara]

maybe try, macro in the sump?

 

[Brad S]

Cut the lights way back, pull anything like carbon you may be running out, cut feeding way back, and dose the tank up with red slime remover... 3 days later re-dose if you have to, few days after that vacuum up left over dead cyano, good size water change, run some carbon for a few days...


done deal

You can look for the root of the problem too, and go for the long term (no chemicals) remedy... But red slime remove works well, and it will not hurt corals/shrimps etc etc.

 

[dcforester1]

Thanks Leroy, and Takara,

I have changed to pellets, and cut way back on feeding. I have cut back to the point where I am afraid I am cutting back to far. The only thing I am adding is Brightwell Biofuel. I have to mod the skimmer, I think that is part of the problem. If anyone has a EuroReef skimmer, I would love to hear from you for some tips.

The cyano seems worse with the PC on, so I am using halides only for 6hrs a day. I had a bunch of cheato, but it died. I had a small pc left, and it seems to be growing. I dont want to use the chemi-pure, until the skimmer is really working better.

Thanks for the help. Derek

 

[delta]

Where is your skimmer placed? It should be as close to the drain in you sump as possible.

Have you checked to see if there is anything blocking the air inlet on the skimmer? Euro reefs are pretty bullet proof and should work with little to no adjustment. Maybe it is sitting too deep in the water? Perhaps you are over driving it (foam adjusted too high)? Hard to say without seeing it first hand

 

[dcforester1]

Where is your skimmer placed? It should be as close to the drain in you sump as possible.

Have you checked to see if there is anything blocking the air inlet on the skimmer? Euro reefs are pretty bullet proof and should work with little to no adjustment. Maybe it is sitting too deep in the water? Perhaps you are over driving it (foam adjusted too high)? Hard to say without seeing it first hand

Once again thanks evryone, Brad thanks I didnt see your post before.
My drain is going into the compartment with the skimmer in my sump. I tried messing with the water level. I even called them. They said to have it 1 1/2in up in the cup, when I do that it builds tons of foam, but it doesnt go over the edge.

Delta I am having an open house Christmas Eve, come on by and check it out. LOL Like I said I am waiting on the gate valve, they shipped it ground. It wont be here until next Tuesday.

Should I have my Carbon/GFO reactor shut off? If so how come what does that do? Or was that suggested if I was using Red Slime remover? Where can I get it locally? Skiptons, Petco?
TIA Derek

 

[reefkeeper2]

Try adding Brightwells Microbacter and some extra phosphate control like GFO. I am not familiar with Biofuel, but you could up the dosage a bit more or supplement with small amounts of vodka. Since your nitrate and phosphates are coming down, you need to be patient. It will take some time for them to really get low enough. None of the other standard methods will work well enough to lower nutrients to a point low enough to starve out cyano and keeping it under control. Chemi Clean will work, but only temporarily.

 

[delta]

Turning off the Cabon/GFO reactor was for Chemiclean/red slime remover treatment.

New skimmers can be funny like that.

Just throwing it out there have you checked your RO TDS?

 

[dcforester1]

Ya, the TDS is still 0, but I am waiting on a better phosphate test kit, and I am still getting new cart/res for the RO unit. Its just over a year old. So I think its just about time to look into changing some filters.

 

[Jennifer]

Hey Derek,

Here is how I dial my euro reef skimmer in: Open the output tube all the way or gate valve which ever you have. Then open the air valve all the way, slowly start closing the air valve until the air bubbles in the chamber come within an inch or so of the outlet tube (inside the chamber) just so that none are leaving the skimmer. Then slowly close down the outlet tube until you get the kind of skimmate you are looking for.

The skimmer should be sitting in about 8 to 12 inches of water. Most say 8 but I had mine at 12 and never had a problem. Also it is good to run some RO water through the air inlet to clear out any salt creep.

Cheers!

 

[Blueflu1]

Derek, from what I have read, pellet food is loaded with phosphates. I use frozen brine and mysis and I melt the cube in tank water in a dixie cup. Then I drain it with a net and put it back in the cup and replenish the water in the cup and slowly add it to the tank.

I have pellets but I use them probably once every 2 weeks. Only when I am in a hurry and need a quick feeding.

 

[dcforester1]

I got home today, and on the sandbed I have like a red/purple slime? It almost looks like velvet. The otherstuff was def brown stringy with bubbles. Is this something different, or does cyano change stages? I was getting .25-.5 readings with my API phosphate test kit. Today my Elos came in, and I got 0?????? I confirmed it with the API, also at zero. So basically all I found out today was that I wasted $30 on a Elos kit thats givin me the same results as the $10 API kit. Matt this weekend I start your system, and they will be eradicated once and for all.
Derek

 

[delta]

Is the brown stringy stuff look like snots? Does it disappear after lights out only to reappear when the lights come back on?

If so it is Dino and you need to nip it in the bud fast.

Phosphate test might be a false reading as you have Cyano and possibly Dino they will uptake the Phosphates and the test won;t read it but it is there.
I doubt you have Zero phosphates with the issues you are having.

 

[Blueflu1]

I had Dinos when my tank was newer Derek. PITA but once I beat it, it never came back. I think I am getting the upperhand on my Cyano now with my new filters.

 

[dcforester1]

How do I deal with Dinos know? The same way as dealing with everything else? Would it cause some of my coral not to open up?
TIA Derek