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- Thread starter Aquadan88
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OP
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Aquadan88
Aquatic Idiot
Update #4: Sump Attempt 1: Fail
So, after installing the sump/refuge back into the system, I found that it simply would not work. I could not safely get enough water into the system for it to properly work. So....back to the drawing board.
I think I have come up with a solution to the problem. I'm going to move the baffle over about 2", and cut it shorter by about 3 1/2". This way, I will still be able to have a constant water level in the refugium side, but there will be more water volume on sump side than there was before. This will give the pump a little more time and a little more water to pump into the main tank to get it to overflow back into the refugium sump. more water in the sump part means more time before the pump starts running dry.
Anyone else have some thoughts? Could REALLY use some help on this one!
So, after installing the sump/refuge back into the system, I found that it simply would not work. I could not safely get enough water into the system for it to properly work. So....back to the drawing board.
I think I have come up with a solution to the problem. I'm going to move the baffle over about 2", and cut it shorter by about 3 1/2". This way, I will still be able to have a constant water level in the refugium side, but there will be more water volume on sump side than there was before. This will give the pump a little more time and a little more water to pump into the main tank to get it to overflow back into the refugium sump. more water in the sump part means more time before the pump starts running dry.
Anyone else have some thoughts? Could REALLY use some help on this one!
The solution is to arrange the sump/ref so that with the pump off and all the extra water drained down from the display, the 10G will be just about full but not overflow. Then turn the pump on and let it do it's thing. Then measure how much volume gets pumped out of the sump.
That's how much empty space you will need to leave in the 10G when the pump is running.
Arrange the baffel accordingly and your good to go (but you will need the ATO in the sump section so the level will stay constant there.) Set it up so that the water level in the sump section is just slightly lower than water level in the ref section and keep it that way via ATO mounted in the sump section. This will keep those microbubbles under control as the water won't be falling so far.
HTH?
That's how much empty space you will need to leave in the 10G when the pump is running.
Arrange the baffel accordingly and your good to go (but you will need the ATO in the sump section so the level will stay constant there.) Set it up so that the water level in the sump section is just slightly lower than water level in the ref section and keep it that way via ATO mounted in the sump section. This will keep those microbubbles under control as the water won't be falling so far.
HTH?
OP
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Aquadan88
Aquatic Idiot
Ok, I understand the concept, and that would work, however, I'm not planning on using an auto top off setup. (don't have the money or the room for it)
(btw, I know how to set min/max levels on a sump/refug, I do work for a tank maintenance company lol)
I'm also thinking about just making the baffle about 4" high and not worrying about keeping a constant water level in the refugium portion. Basically it would just be one tank, with a divider to keep sand away from the pump. That would probably be the best idea, just in case the check valve on the return pump failed (don't know if that is known to happen, but better to be safe...)
(btw, I know how to set min/max levels on a sump/refug, I do work for a tank maintenance company lol)
I'm also thinking about just making the baffle about 4" high and not worrying about keeping a constant water level in the refugium portion. Basically it would just be one tank, with a divider to keep sand away from the pump. That would probably be the best idea, just in case the check valve on the return pump failed (don't know if that is known to happen, but better to be safe...)
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Did I misunderstand your question?
FWIW, I would think this set up would be very finicky with manual top off given the smallish size of the pump chamber, like if you miss one day the pump would likely be sucking air...
Doesn't take much space for a simple ATO system
FWIW, I would think this set up would be very finicky with manual top off given the smallish size of the pump chamber, like if you miss one day the pump would likely be sucking air...
Doesn't take much space for a simple ATO system
OP
OP
Aquadan88
Aquatic Idiot
FWIW, I would think this set up would be very finicky with manual top off given the smallish size of the pump chamber, like if you miss one day the pump would likely be sucking air...
Doesn't take much space for a simple ATO system
Well, that's why I think if I make the pump chamber larger, or eliminate there being two separate chambers with one overflowing into the other (I'd barricade the sand with a partition), it would solve the problem, and eliminate me driving myself insane.
However, there is a small closet (containing the water meter) right next to the tank. I suppose if i ever get ambitious I can put the barrel for the auto top off in there. But there's absolutely no room under the tank, and I really want to keep things contained (and neat). <-- my ocd showing. lol
BTW, thanks for taking time to help me out jimmy, really appreciate it.
jamesdong009
Anthony
Here are a few pics of my 10g refugium/sump.
The first section has the plumbing from the overflow and skimmer, the second is where the macro algae is kept, third is rock rubble, and last is the reactor and return pump.
HTH
The first section has the plumbing from the overflow and skimmer, the second is where the macro algae is kept, third is rock rubble, and last is the reactor and return pump.
HTH
OP
OP
Aquadan88
Aquatic Idiot
Looks good Anthony.
I think I'm going to bite the bullet and get the auto top off system. I installed a 5" baffle about 5" in from one side. I did that so that i could separate the live sand from the pump and stuff. I'll install an auto top off system at some point soon. (probably after I get the tank up and running.) I'll post pictures tomorrow.
I think I'm going to bite the bullet and get the auto top off system. I installed a 5" baffle about 5" in from one side. I did that so that i could separate the live sand from the pump and stuff. I'll install an auto top off system at some point soon. (probably after I get the tank up and running.) I'll post pictures tomorrow.
OP
OP
Aquadan88
Aquatic Idiot
Update #5: Sump Attempt #2
I got home a little early from work today so I decided to get working on the new sump setup.
The idea is that the water level will be over the baffle, so both compartments will remain the same level. I am eliminating the check valve. Mainly due to the fact that there is not enough back pressure to make the valve close (and because I broke it
).
I will probably be adding an auto top off system at some point. Most likely after the new year.
The Shambled Room:
New sump refugium setup:
My HORRIFIC silicone job:
I got home a little early from work today so I decided to get working on the new sump setup.
The idea is that the water level will be over the baffle, so both compartments will remain the same level. I am eliminating the check valve. Mainly due to the fact that there is not enough back pressure to make the valve close (and because I broke it
).I will probably be adding an auto top off system at some point. Most likely after the new year.
The Shambled Room:
New sump refugium setup:
My HORRIFIC silicone job:
Sounds like it's coming along. If you do drop the baffel level a good bit as you said above I bet you would be ok without ATO, but IMO it's more than worth it to set up an ATO (it's sooo nice to be able to ignore your tank for a couple of days when you need to )
For a simple ATO, you can get a float switch set up like these pretty cheap;
http://www.autotopoff.com/products.html
Then just a aqualifter pump for $10-15, and a holding container.
Or you could use the simple mechanical float valve and a small holding container. (If you don't have one, I have the hole saw to go with the kent style float valves, LMK)
Given that this is a smaller tank, I bet you could use something as small as a gallon for the top off res, and even mount it above the sump/ref inside the tank stand.
Oh, and BTW, I love these projects, always happy to help (or at least try to help )
)For a simple ATO, you can get a float switch set up like these pretty cheap;
http://www.autotopoff.com/products.html
Then just a aqualifter pump for $10-15, and a holding container.
Or you could use the simple mechanical float valve and a small holding container. (If you don't have one, I have the hole saw to go with the kent style float valves, LMK)
Given that this is a smaller tank, I bet you could use something as small as a gallon for the top off res, and even mount it above the sump/ref inside the tank stand.
Oh, and BTW, I love these projects, always happy to help (or at least try to help
)
OP
OP
Aquadan88
Aquatic Idiot
Thanks. I have a closet next to my tank (there's already a hole in the wall lol) I'll setup a water barrel and get the auto top off going from there. I'll probably use the float switch, which i can get from work for 1/2 than cheap. lolGlad there's a place like this to get people's help and opinions. I'll keep everyone updated as things continue.
I plan to do some major work this weekend. Due to the pending snow storm, I'll probably be home all weekend.
Also, for all those interested in the refugium, I'm planning on creating a custom lighting unit made out of Cold Cathode Tubes (yes, like the ones the techies use to mod their computer cases).
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Cherokee_Dude
Non-member
Nice project! If you've not abandoned the idea of a timer for your Koralia. i have the 3's and modded w/ a small length of airline tubing and I don't hear anything now (Or verrrry rarely)
jcallesano
Non-member
I see rockband in that picture.. WOOOO
OP
OP
Aquadan88
Aquatic Idiot
I'd love to see pictures of that mod, and a walkthrough of how to do it, if you wouldn't mind.
Yes, that would be rock band. However, my brother has relocated my PS2 to his house, so he can learn to play the rock band drums. loljcallesano said:
OP
OP
Aquadan88
Aquatic Idiot
Update #6: Sump Attempt #2 - Successful
Well, after patching up the rough edges on my setup last night and this afternoon, I have finally gotten everything up and running. I installed the refugium back into the stand, and put everything back together. Filled her up, set the max level, and watched the pretty thing run.
I also put the Koralia Nano on a timer. I set it to 15 minute intervals starting at 7:00AM and ending at 5:00PM. I didn't have it go for 24 hours because I'm trying to mimic when the waves are heaviest in nature (if anyone has more info that would make this more accurate other than "tidal times change every day", that would be great!).
My plan for tomorrow (hopefully) is to hard-plumb the drain pipe, so I can have the water cross flow through the tank. However, I've noticed that when I submerge the end of my drain hose under water, my overflow fills up. If I submerge it halfway, it works fine. I believe this is due to the lack of a place for the air to escape. I think I might angle my return pipe at 45 degrees and drill a hole on top of the pipe about 1/2 down for the air to escape. Any comments, suggestions? Think this will work?
Here are some pictures.
Well, after patching up the rough edges on my setup last night and this afternoon, I have finally gotten everything up and running. I installed the refugium back into the stand, and put everything back together. Filled her up, set the max level, and watched the pretty thing run.
I also put the Koralia Nano on a timer. I set it to 15 minute intervals starting at 7:00AM and ending at 5:00PM. I didn't have it go for 24 hours because I'm trying to mimic when the waves are heaviest in nature (if anyone has more info that would make this more accurate other than "tidal times change every day", that would be great!).
My plan for tomorrow (hopefully) is to hard-plumb the drain pipe, so I can have the water cross flow through the tank. However, I've noticed that when I submerge the end of my drain hose under water, my overflow fills up. If I submerge it halfway, it works fine. I believe this is due to the lack of a place for the air to escape. I think I might angle my return pipe at 45 degrees and drill a hole on top of the pipe about 1/2 down for the air to escape. Any comments, suggestions? Think this will work?
Here are some pictures.
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My ATO on a 12G is a plastic container of about 1 gallon of water, a tiny powerhead I got for $7 and a Float switch I got for I think about $9. Works like a charm and clicks on and off about 3-4 times a day. Never had an issue with it for over a year now. I have to fill the gallon about once every week and a half or so (with Halide lighting so relatively high evap).
You can do it cheaply and have it functional. My guess is you have anough space somewhere to add a container of some sort and a tiny powerhead. No need t run from a different room wit a barrel. The smallest I have found are what I use, the type for fountains or running water in reptile cages. Many pet stores have them, as does Marine Depot I think.
You can do it cheaply and have it functional. My guess is you have anough space somewhere to add a container of some sort and a tiny powerhead. No need t run from a different room wit a barrel. The smallest I have found are what I use, the type for fountains or running water in reptile cages. Many pet stores have them, as does Marine Depot I think.
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Aquadan88
Aquatic Idiot
Yea, the Max line is where the water level is while it's running. When I shut the pump off, the sump fills up about 1 1/2" from the top.
I have a small Rio 180 that I think can use for auto top off. I've never really dealt with auto top off systems before. We use them at work, but I've never set one up. Does the float switch control when the powerhead dumps water into the tank?
And as for where I put the water source for the auto top off, the closet is right next to the tank, there's already a hole in the wall from when I ran lines for my fresh water tank (I had the canister filter in there).
The baffle is to keep the live sand from getting sucked into the pump, and away from everything else.
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I think you may still want to try to eliminate micro bubbles because that baffle isn't going to help that with the way its positioned. You may want to consider a filter sock over the return to cut down that bubbles. Also help add mechanical filtration a bit.
Yes, the float switch is wired to the power head, just cut open the power chord and splice it in, its simple. You will just need to mount the float switch to something that holds it at the water level you want to maintain in the return area.
Yes, the float switch is wired to the power head, just cut open the power chord and splice it in, its simple. You will just need to mount the float switch to something that holds it at the water level you want to maintain in the return area.
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Aquadan88
Aquatic Idiot
I think that once I replumb the return with PVC instead of the drain hose, it will make a huge difference with the micro bubbles. It will drain into the opposite side of the tank as the pump. There's not a whole lot of power going through the system, only about 150 gph or so.
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