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algae bloom
- Thread starter new2saltyfish
- Start date
randoma
Non-member
Also, unless you have a pH meter (calibrated), using the tests that require comparison to a color chart is probably +/- 0.4 or so. Which is to say, more or less useless... If your Ca/Alk are good and your tank is well oxygenated (good water flow), you probably don't need to worry about pH.
Since your ca/alk usage is probably pretty low, I'd go with Randy's two-part (I'm happy to give you a few cups of Dowflake and you can get baking soda at the supermarket). Dose whatever is required to get your Ca/Alk to ~400/~10-11dKH (or whatever you feel is appropriate for your tank). Then check your Alk again after a week - add whatever it takes to get your Ca/Alk back up to the previous week.. As long as you're not adding/removing much livestock from your tank, the amount you need to add should be pretty stable.
However, if you don't have much SPS/LPS/No clams, just doing 10-20% water change/week will probably keep your levels within reasonable boundaries.. In my main SPS tank, I test Alk daily, but I suspect that my coral-inches-per-gallons-of-water ratio is somewhat ridiculous. It is almost like having a nano again!
Since your ca/alk usage is probably pretty low, I'd go with Randy's two-part (I'm happy to give you a few cups of Dowflake and you can get baking soda at the supermarket). Dose whatever is required to get your Ca/Alk to ~400/~10-11dKH (or whatever you feel is appropriate for your tank). Then check your Alk again after a week - add whatever it takes to get your Ca/Alk back up to the previous week.. As long as you're not adding/removing much livestock from your tank, the amount you need to add should be pretty stable.
However, if you don't have much SPS/LPS/No clams, just doing 10-20% water change/week will probably keep your levels within reasonable boundaries.. In my main SPS tank, I test Alk daily, but I suspect that my coral-inches-per-gallons-of-water ratio is somewhat ridiculous. It is almost like having a nano again!
LuckyReefer
Reef Connaisseur'
As jay said you shouldn't add anything that you aren't testing for. With that being said, I paid 13.00 for the reef buffer at Aquarium Gallery, so its prety cheap... it will last ya quite a while. As I was saying grab some test kits, RO/DI water and some supplements and you will be well on your way.
OP
OP
new2saltyfish
Non-member
well i have the normal test kit of (nitrate, nitrite, ph, and amonia) have alk and calc test kits on the way...anymore that i should pick up?
That should take care of you for now.
I'm going to get a Mg. test when I dredge up enough money.
BTW,if you bring a sample to the meetings they test,Alk,Mg,Cal,SG,PO4 for $5donation.It's very helpful to find how your water test out from others using different kits/methods.
I'm going to get a Mg. test when I dredge up enough money.
BTW,if you bring a sample to the meetings they test,Alk,Mg,Cal,SG,PO4 for $5donation.It's very helpful to find how your water test out from others using different kits/methods.
Scott
Non-member
This is a key point that I've hit first-hand.
I had one big piece of LR that was a red-slime factory. I thought it was well-cured, but obviously it wasn't. The parameters gave zero indication that there was a problem. Just the very well-fed cyano.
Luckily, for me the solution was simple. Get the rock out of there.
