Again IMO asking for trouble using a normally open valve here means in a power failure or switch failure you are allowing unlimited flow into your sump
Marc, it isn't a normally open valve...I'm not that crazy. It is a normally closed valve that is opened by my control system. The control system will only open the valve when it sees no voltage across the switch. So in other words the control system monitors the switch, then tells the valve to open when needed. If for some reason the power goes out, I can manually fill it with a toggle switch. That sucks you had a poly tube pop off on you, but that isn't normal. Poly tubing should hold for years if put in right. It isn't in code out here, but in other states it is used to plumb a lot more than rodi. My bath tub and shower were plumbed with 1/2" poly tubing in my house in Montana.
>Marc, it isn't a normally open valve<
Ahhh Good to hear.
I must have misread
Actually it's not the poly tube itself thats unreliable, it's the conectors that we have available (reefsafe)
I come from 20 years as a medical and dental equipment guy. I don't think I ever saw a connector fail (brass with a sleeve and poly ferral built in) But over the years I've seen many tens if not hundreds of floods caused by leaving poly tube at presure.
I think thats why I cringe at the thought of an RO system left on
Why wouldn't you be able to use a brass ferral? I'm not using brass, but I was just wondering how much copper could leach out of that tiny brass piece. Has anybody used them? You normally don't hear of people who use tap water having hurtfull amounts of copper in their tanks, so I would like to think a brass ferral on the rodi lines wouldn't hurt (as long as it isn't in contact with the salt water).
Not sure
After all all the water feeding it comes through copper.
Brian (aquaman) used all brass fittings to build his super, overkill, anally designed RO/DI system and credits them for a build up of copper in his system. I know he did extensive reaserch and high end testing on it.....Maybe he has some input?
Another very simple way to decrease the risk of disaster is to run the pump on a timer (in addition to the float switch). You set the timer so that the pump could only be on for a length of time slightly higher than the length of time that you know from experience it needs to be on to keep up with evap.
are there timers that can start, when the float switch comes on, and over ride the pump if needed? that sounds like a killer idea greg....any ideas on timers like that? i think this is how i might try it if greg knows of any good timers....thanks for the idea
The way you do this is you plug the timer into the wall. Set the timer for just longer than you want the pump on. Then plug the level controller into the timer. Then plug the pump into the level controller.
The timer comes on and if the level is low the pump comes on. We went into this in detail on a thread not too long ago....I'll take a look for it.
Thats a great Idea Greg,
Another benifit to that one is if you set the timer to night time (oppisite your lighting cycle) it will help balance your off photo period PH fall.
I spent last week figuring this out for my 16g nano I'm setting up now. I approached it from this perspective: How can I get reliable auto top off that removes most risk and is easy to maintain without buying a Tunze?
1) Get a reservoir that can hold a 1 week supply of top off water no matter what time of the year.
2) Get a digital wall timer that supports two ON and two OFF events per day. The timer must have an override button to support testing.
3) Get two float switches and two extension cords. NOTE: You will be setting BOTH switches to open on LOW.
4) Get a small pump that won't burn out if it runs dry. Azoo, I think, makes one for desk fountains.
5) Get a night light
6) Construct a custom acrylic box and holder that keeps the snails out and dampens any wave action (no holes on the sides). The switches are attached to an acrylic top held in place by a nylon bolt and wingnut. The box is constructed such that taking the switches out for cleaning is easy and you do not have to readjust the switches when you return them to the tank. (I've got 10 thumbs and I did it.)
7) Wire one float switch into each extension cord. Call them A and B.
8) Plug the timer into the socket and set one or two ON periods per day of about 3 minutes. Remember to use drip loops and secure the connection points from accidental spills and spray.
9) Plug A into the timer. Plug the nightlight and B into A. Plug the pump into B.
MAINTENANCE
Once a day
If your top off system fails to activate, you will notice the unusual low water level within a day or two with normal feeding/viewing.
Once a week
Fill reservoir.
Hit override switch. If nightlight remains on after the pump stops, switch A is stuck on open.
Once a month
Remove the box top with attached switches and clean them with a soft toothbrush.
Unplug the two cords and nightlight and reassemble such that switch B is now switch A. This promotes even wear of the electrical components of the switches and virtually guarentees that you will not get a double switch failure.
is this something that oyu have built? if so could you take some pics and post them....if you can't post em we'll all be happy to help you. you could email them to me and i'll post them if you need me to. arweeks@verizon.net
This is my second attempt at a DIY acrylic project. It is ugly but perfectly functional. I used a mini torch and that was problematic. I also rushed it and made a host of minor rookie errors. I just bought myself a full size torch tonight and some supplies to make a jig for getting nice square even bends.
Last step, I need to get a couple of nylon nuts to fit the top shaft of the switch. I'm not sure how to figure out the correct size.
at a DIY acrylic project. It is ugly but perfectly functional. I used a mini torch and that was problematic. I also rushed it and made a host of minor rookie errors. I just bought myself a full size torch tonight and some supplies to make a jig for getting nice square even bends.
