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Basement Sump project

What is the reason for the reverse standpipe in a basement sump?
 
It is a way to get bubbles to break before going into your sump. The idea he is using is two-fold. The reverse-durso part is that a vertical column of water exists with an exit at the bottom. The water flows down, bubbles rise up, keeping most of the bubbles from getting into the sump. The second part is making that vertical column a large diameter area, thus slowing down the speed of the water that is travelling down, making it easier for the bubbles to move up.
 
like... a bucket with a hole in the bottom? ;)
 
Yeah, but I still don't have room in my sump for a 5g bucket. :) Guess it's time to start planning the next one!

I lengthened the pipe at the bottom, and now i've got faster flow to the basement (I turned my pump to full-open :D), but it's still surging a little bit, and it still stops draining well if I remove the valve (allowing a 1/2" vent hole on top of the durso). Is that normal?

nate
 
For a durso to work the hole needs to be tiny and to stop the surging you need to get rid of the back pressure.
 
I have a valve on the durso, so I can close down the hole to make it work efficiently.

Now my drain is about 2" below the water level in the sump where it goes into the Tee. Still surging a little. I'll try raising it more when I have a few minutes.

Nate
 
why not just do it with pvc like this
 

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Yeah, maybe I will. Right now I think I've actually got things pretty good.

The new flow in the tank is totally nuts :D Next I have to figure out a way to distribute it better.
 
NateHanson said:
The new flow in the tank is totally nuts :D Next I have to figure out a way to distribute it better.

An easy, inexpensive way is to split the return line with a loc-line T... that's what I did in my tank because the retun comes out almost in the middle of the tank and with the T in place it gets evenly distributed around the tank.

Nuno
 
nunofs said:
An easy, inexpensive way is to split the return line with a loc-line T... that's what I did in my tank because the retun comes out almost in the middle of the tank and with the T in place it gets evenly distributed around the tank.

Nuno


Yeah, I think that's what I'll do. Tried to buy one at AA today, but they don't carry it. Anyone carry these locally?
 
Piscevore said:
loc line is an expensive form of pvc nuno :)

But it's easily adjustable, removed, or added to... besides the difference in price between regular pvc and loc-line won't make any dent in the cost of a whole setup ;)

Nuno
 
Looks good Nate. I don't know if this will help but, I have both my returns 11/2" going down to about 2" off the bottom of my fuge. Around those, siliconed to the bottom, I have two 3" pvc pipe about 2" below the surface. I drilled 1/4" holes all around the bottom of the 3" pvc to help with any restriction. They kind of telescope into each other. I don't hear a sound from my over flows..........
 
~Flighty~ said:
why not just do it with pvc like this


Mine is just like that, I just have the thinner pvc 2" from the bottom and holes drilled around the bottom of the wider pvc.......
 
NateHanson said:
Thanks for checking Nuno. I'd just need a wye, an outlet, and maybe a couple segments of 3/4.

Nate: sorry for the delay, it was already put away in a box in the attic... :rolleyes:
I do have a T (or Y), two nozzles and a length of segments (6), all in 3/4"... do you want to pick it up at my place, or should I bring it to the meeting? I'll probably go to AA sometime this weekend, let me know if you'd rather meet there.

Edit: does $10 sound fair? It cost $13.85+shipping from savko.com.

Nuno
 
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I'll let you know Nuno. I'm going to try an eductor that I got from Cindy. If that works I won't need to add onto my locline. I'll let you know.

Hope I didn't make you dig too hard! :)
 
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