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Boston Tap Water
- Thread starter cypho
- Start date
Ok, but WHY. What specifically are you trying to remove with the RO/DI filter? Chlorine, chloramine, ammonia, nitrates, phosphates, other organics, copper, lead, other heavy metals.... Any info about what problematic ingredients(and how much of them) you are removing with that RO/DI filter?
yukyuklee
Free.99
it removes organics, minerals, Chemicals... (chlorine and other stuff from the water)
Yes, that is what filters do. But can you be any more specific? What exactly is the "other stuff" in the water here, and how much of it is there?
__________________
Some examples from my past.
I lived in a rural area and the water had really high nitrates and phosphates. If you didn't filter your water, you were guaranteed to have one heck of an algae farm if you had anything approaching reef lighting. In addition, the water was really hard (lots of CaCO3) which is tough on your expensive RO and DI membranes. The water did not have much in the way of toxins though, so if you didn't have bright lights, or you were trying to grow algae, the tap water was fine.
I lived in a city where the water had really high levels of both chlorine and chloramine as well as quite a bit of heavy metal contaminants. Non-filtered water meant instant death for anything you put in it. The high levels of chlorine meant you had to pay particularly close attention to the carbon filter, but the water being soft meant that the expensive RO membrane and DI cartridge lasted practically forever as long as you were good at replacing the carbon filter regularly.
Then I lived in another city where the water was practically perfect. No nutrients to speak of, and the chlorine was so low that you could use strait tap water even without dechlorinator and all would be fine...most of the time. Occasionally the city would decide to up the chlorine levels all of a sudden, usually after a big rain, and you could run into troubles if you did not pay attention and at least smell the water for chlorine before you used it. But since it was chlorine and not chloramine all you had to do was aerate the water overnight if you found yourself out of dechlorinator. While the water was pure enough that you did not need to do anything to the water, if you did run a RO/DI filter, you had to replace the sediment filter like once a month because there was a lot of sediment in water.
So, what's Boston water like?
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I think you ought to have a look here: http://www.mwra.com/annual/waterreport/2009results/metro/boston.pdf
generally speaking, detectable nitrate or phosphate in the water justifies having a RODI filter, to prevent the introduction of those chemicals into a reef system. Water in Boston has detectable nitrates.
add in the MWRA disinfectant of choice, chloramine, and the need for the filter becomes stronger. In the event that copper comes off your plumbing (which is probably copper on the supply side of the plumbing in your house) and the need becomes critical. HTH
generally speaking, detectable nitrate or phosphate in the water justifies having a RODI filter, to prevent the introduction of those chemicals into a reef system. Water in Boston has detectable nitrates.
add in the MWRA disinfectant of choice, chloramine, and the need for the filter becomes stronger. In the event that copper comes off your plumbing (which is probably copper on the supply side of the plumbing in your house) and the need becomes critical. HTH
delta
Impatient Reefer
You are trying to make pure water, zero TDS (total dissolved organics)
The less you put in, the less you have to try and keep in control/remove.
RO/DI units are the most popular way of doing this, or you can run a DI system.
DI system have zero waste water but you go through a lot more DI resin. You can recharge the DI resins if they are run separately.
The less you put in, the less you have to try and keep in control/remove.
RO/DI units are the most popular way of doing this, or you can run a DI system.
DI system have zero waste water but you go through a lot more DI resin. You can recharge the DI resins if they are run separately.
There is no need to try convince me to buy an RO/DI Filter. I made that investment 15 years ago. I have one, and I completely understand what an RO/DI filter does, as well as why it may be useful/important? That is not what I'm asking.
My number 1 rule in fishkeeping is not to do anything just because some guy(or 15 people, or 15,000 people) told me to. I like to know why I do it, what exactly I am accomplishing.
I'm not saying that your wrong that Boston's water needs to be treated before it is used. I'm just asking what's in the water that you all are so afraid of.
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From your link, Nitrates seem quite acceptable to me: 0.06-0.14 ppm, I know that at least in my system, an additional .1 ppm of nitrates would be insignificant.
Now copper on the other hand looks very worrisome, 0.003-0.93 ppm The high end there could definitely cause issue. I'm definitely going to test my tap water to see where I fall in that range.
And the chlorimine, very good to know.
Again, Thanks
jbishop
CIA Agent / Constable
If you want to find out put Boston water in your tank and use it.
Tell me what you find out. Why do people use toilets? Same reason people use an RODI. Its cleaner.
UncleJT
BOHICA
I agree and often do things outside of the norm but using RO/DI water shouldn't fall under this type of thinking.
Everything..
