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Center Brace

Sherri

Non-member
So I want to replace the center brace (it's 14 inches!) and have read all of the threads about that. Here's a question .... could you change from a center brace to Euro bracing?
 
Oooo... I found it. :D

This one is tough. I don't have a clue. That is one big tank to be removing the center brace, though. Any idea who makes it? It looks like an oceanic to me by the trim, and the fact you said it weighs a ton, but I don't know.

I would ask over on RC on the big tank or DIY forum. Those people are nuts and will try anything. Someone has been bound to have tried it before. On the other hand, I've seen a lot of major malfunctions over there as well. :rolleyes:
 
I don't recall how big the center brace on my old 72 bow front was but I never had any issues cutting it off and attaching a piece of acrylic with nylon nuts and bolts
 
You might be able to to do it, but I don't think it would be possible or recomended unless the tank is empty.
You would need to remove the current center brace and trim then clean everything and apply the euro bracing. Then it would need to cure for a few weeks.
But it will come down to the length, height and thickness of the glass.
 
It's 14 inches wide. I read about the acrylic and nylon nuts -- don't know how many you would need to replace a 14 inch wide center brace. But I got to thinking and wondered if it is possible to replace it with Euro bracing. There's a tank build from scratch on RC and they did it on that tank ... so I just wondered. I guess the difficult part is the top trim on the tank -- you would have to remove it and put the bracing on and then replace the trim. Just not sure if it is doable so thought I would ask if anyone had ever tried. I can ask on RC too after I try the search tool and see if it will work.
 
The tank is empty -- I am making several changes to it. Sort of a customizing of the tank! Moving an overflow and changing the bracing. I am going to build rock which will need 2 months to cure so doing this at the same time is doable. Is there a way to calculate what I would need? It's a standard 180 AGA, tempered bottom ...
 
As long as the tank is empty I see no reason why removing the trim and adding eurobracing wouldn't work.

As for the specifics on the engineering of it, I have no idea.
 
Yea, if that's the tank we're talking about it's an oceanic and yes the brace is just siliconed in.

Rusty's tank is like that one (except for the overflow set up) and the centerbrace broke. He was able to remove the broken one and install a new one he had a glass shop make.
 
That's the tank -- Paul says it's an AGA. I keep reading about how people get fed up with the center brace so I thought -- well -- let's modify while it's empty. I did get asked why I don't just resell it and buy a customized tank -- which is of course a good question. But I don't think removing one overflow and changing the center brace is too much. I just need to figure out how to do the bracing. Here's a question -- would I HAVE to remove the trim? Why couldn't the glass be glued in below the trim?
 
Well you need to stack and lap the glass it is a two layer process. One layer runs inside the tank one run on top and is siliconed to the top of the one siliconed to the inner glass. If you are looking to cut corners just go with two braces and forego the euro bracing.

But the information is out there to figure the design and whether it would be possible on your setup not sure where though.

Perhaps Dave Mcreeferson will chime in and give you a little more direction
as to where to look.
 
Yea -- I guess am having a hard time figuring out exactly what eurobracing means then! I thought it was just the glass that you see on the top . So when you say two layers and one runs inside the tank -- do you mean flush against the glass or is it also horizontal? I have been googling and have not found a clear example.
 
So, one layer is glued on the inside on the long sides, the short end is glued on top and then another layer is put on top of the long sides? So there is only one layer on the short end? The short end overlaps the long sides but then the second layer on the long side ends up flush with the short end? Am I looking at it right?

I found a thread on RC where a guy removed the trim off of an AGA 120. That does not look like fun. I am also thinking it would be hard to get that first layer to hold onto vertical glass. I would almost have to lay the tank on its side, somehow supporting the overflows, to glue those first pieces in. Unless I figured out a way to support it somehow. Thinking out loud ... sorry.

It is so tempting to do but I may chicken out! Is the shadow that bad on the center brace? I am toying with the 3 foot Solaris if I can find the money by the time I am ready to set it up. And then use my T5's for the other three feet ... and maybe a spot. Just wondering how bad the shadow is because you see so many people complaining about it. I will kick myself if I don't do it and end up hating the shadow!
 
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