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DIY Auto top off system
- Thread starter Fitzy
- Start date
110oceanic
Non-member
wow! what size nano?
110oceanic
Non-member
that is 3% top of total volume. I have 110gal w/10gal sump and I top off 1gal a day. are you sure yo don't have a leak?
OP
OP
Fitzy
Non-member
Yup. That was my initial thought as well. While it was cycling, i drained all the water out, lifted the tanks, and no wet spots. No salt creap eather. Im thinkin it might be beacuse my tank is at 85. I know this is rather warm, but i cant cool it off either. Heater is set at 79, so the rest must be comming from my PC lights... maybe???
I've done a DIY top-off with two float switches, and a solid-state relay. I actually have a couple of float switches lying around. Here is a picture http://reefcentral.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=152687&papass=&sort=1&thecat=500
When I had a sumpless 15 gal with MH, I used to lose about 1/3 - 1/2 gal per day. 1 gal sounds a bit high, but not totally unlikely. 85 degrees is a bit high; make sure your heater isn't stuck on. Take it out for a couple of days and see what happens.
-pavel.
When I had a sumpless 15 gal with MH, I used to lose about 1/3 - 1/2 gal per day. 1 gal sounds a bit high, but not totally unlikely. 85 degrees is a bit high; make sure your heater isn't stuck on. Take it out for a couple of days and see what happens.
-pavel.
rharlow
Non-member
I've done one for my 65gal. RO/DI fill ups a 5gal container, controlled by normal "toilet" type float. That feeds a perstaltic pump (bought off ebay) that is controlled by a lower float (turn on) and upper float (turn off) and 12vdc relay. (bought kit from autotopoff.com). Works like a charm. I also have this feed a kalc reactor to topoff kalc, or throw two valves and it bypasses kalc.
Chip
Chip
Mine powers an aqualifter pump, and I use a 5 gal bucket with kalk as feed.
The whole thing runs off the lower floatswitch in my system. When level drops, it turns on, when it rises it shuts off. The range is about 1/8 - 1/4 inch. The upper switch is just for safety -- it's always ON since it's in its dropped position. If the lower switch ever jams, the water will push the upper switch up, turning it off. The switches are wired in series (one after the other -- both have to be ON for the pump to run).
-pavel.
The whole thing runs off the lower floatswitch in my system. When level drops, it turns on, when it rises it shuts off. The range is about 1/8 - 1/4 inch. The upper switch is just for safety -- it's always ON since it's in its dropped position. If the lower switch ever jams, the water will push the upper switch up, turning it off. The switches are wired in series (one after the other -- both have to be ON for the pump to run).
-pavel.
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I've been running about the same thing as pavster for about 4 years now with no trouble. I do have the switch connected to an aquacontroller which then toggles an x10 module with the aqualifter plugged into it. I have a little airline valve in the tubing between the top-off water bucket and the pump so when it's on it replenishes at a fast drip. I set up the controller so the pump only comes on between midnight and 5am if the float switch is low. This way it isn't turning on and off all day long and it stays on steady for an hour or two, slowly dripping the water in to replace the gallon or two that evaporates every day.
NateHanson
Non-member
I had a sump system, and set it up using a mechanical float valve from US plastics. I also intended to use a solenoid valve, 12v power supply, and a float switch to create a safety cut-off in case the sump or display water level got too high.
Nate
Nate
