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Finally about to setup my fuge/sump

jdeb101

Non-member
Ok, so Im almostready to hook everything up but before I did I have a few questions. (btw this is a 10 gallon fuge/sump that uses an overflow and Rio 1400 Plus return pump). What are the steps I take to getting it running basically. From what Im thinking I would:
a) Fill the sump with water to the lower baffles height
b) start the syphon
c) start the return pump

Heres a shot of the setup I have for my fuge/sump right now. (its still needs a cleaning and glued baffles). The flow in will be on the left side where I will also place my HOB skimmer, the fuge will be in the middle, and the return in the right side. Let me know what you guys think plz. Heres some pics.

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The only thing that may not be good is the size of the return area. As this is where evaporation shows up, you may need to top off very frequently unless you have an auto top off system.
 
The baffles look like they might be too thin. Did you test it out yet? That looks like the lexan i bought at Hd, mine bows badly. I ended up at lowes for a replacement, they have a much thicker acrylic sheet you can buy.
 
I would trim the baffles so they don't bow... clean the glass really good before with something that doesn't leave a film (vinegar and water)... 2 good coats of silicone and let it dry a good 24 hours in between coats. just my 2 cents
 
My baffles are a bit bowed already without the water in the sump. Does the bow really affect anything? I figured if water pressure was on both sides of the baffles theyd hold fine.

I could give the return section a little more space if necessary but I still dont really understand why it is that this section has the most evaporation. Would anyone care to explain this?

Thanks everyone, your helps appreciated!
 
Oh god... that stinks. :( I just ordered it from drsfostersmith.com. Is there a brand you recommend? I thought I heard before RIO's were good pumps, guess not.
 
So could someone please help me a little more with setting up my sump. Are the steps I stated in the first post correct? Im kinda confused about how the hole flow of water through the sump works. I know the overflow syphons water but is it possible that it would syphon to much? If someone could explain the whole setup/process of the sump that would help.
 
Some prefer to use glass baffles because silicone works best with glass to glass applications. You can easily get glass baffles cut to your exact dimensions at Ace Hardware. I got 4 baffles cut for 12 dollars. 12 bucks is less then the sheet of acrylic would cost you.
 
water entering the sump on the right I'm assuming? Overflow into the fuge might be pretty fast ...then into the return chamber on left? Should be ok...but the bowing will prob make the baffles leak and also your skimmer chamber so the height of the water might not hold. I would use glass....found thin plate glass cheap at Lowes and they cut to size for me. Silicone it up and in 24hrs had water in it.
 
yes...your order of events is correct......but your sump design will need some wwork before getting it running.

my baffles are acrylic and the silicone holds them in place fine and has for just over 2 years. the smaller pieces of acrylic plus the small amount of water in a ten gallon tank, there isn't any real pressure at all to hold back, they will be fine. i would just trim them some more so the fit well, no bowing, and then secure them.

now, the second baffle on the left needs to be off the bottom of the sump. the top of it needs to be higher than any water flow so that water will deffinately go under it and there should be a third bafflethat goes to the bottom so you can direct any extra bubbbles to the top. the thrid baffle will also be needed to put sand against for the fuge area.

you will need the same design before your return pump...one baffle will not work. you will end up with micro bubbles in the display if you don't use baffles for a bubble trap here. they are more needed here than on the other side to stop bubbles.

it was suggested that water will evaporate only from the return pump side, this is true. there is no equalizer in the sump....that is, no way for all the water to "touch" at the same time in the sump. it is all devided by baffles. and the only way for water to get from one to the next is by flow......so every chamber in the sump will work like the overflow in your tank. my design works this exact way and the small chamber for my return pump is where i have my float switches for my auto top off.....you will need to make one.....you will get sick of the constant topping off for sure, i did!!!
 
THanks Andy. Well I ran into some changes since the last time I posted here. First off I went with a 15 instead cuz the 10 leaked. Also the design of my baffles changed a little from the 10's. I made the flow come into the chamber with one baffle, the fuge will be in the middle I think, and the flow out will be in the last chamber where the 3 baffles will be before it. All my baffles are glued, I water tested it and they seemed to hold well(slight bow, but dont think it will be a problem), and Im ready to hook it up.

However....I ran into a really stupid problem Im smacking myself for right now. THe sump doesnt fit into my stands opening!!!!! The stand has two doors with a brace in the middle that I think Ill have to remove to put the sump in. Has anyone else here on BRS encountered this problem before? IF so Id love to know what you did. UGHHH....
 
i know others have removed that brace before.....i haven't looked for any threads but others might chime in.....on larger tanks, other forms of bracing were made untill the original one could be replaced....maybe you can go that route
 
Well I was just thinking of putting a piece of wood to brace while I cut out middle bracer. Slide in tank the glue bracer back in. I just realllllllly hope I never have to remove the sump in the future.
 
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