Heater controller opinions or DA Reef Keeper Lite

[Bobbofin]

I was looking to get a heater controller such as a Blueline because winter's here. But I saw that the Reef Keep Lite is only $123 with four sockets and a temp probe. Really don't need an Apex at double the cost. Is the RKL any good? Not looking for ph probe, ato control or advanced features. A couple of extra outlets I can turn off and on at will in addition to heater control will do.

 

[evan.lundberg4]

RKL all the way man. One of the best decisions I made was buying one. Plus you can keep upgrading it if you want

 

[MrX]

Definitely a full controller (RKL or Apex) versus just a heat controller.

Just be aware that the RKL doesn't have network connectivity out of the box.

I like the Apex Jr.; has always done everything I needed it to do. Just ordered another one for my RSM C-250. Worst decision Neptune made though was to force you to get a Display head-unit.

 

[myram]

Really depends on what you want to spend and how much you are going to use.

Ranco temp controllers are the way to go, it's a commercial HVAC product that works great. You wire it yourself with as many outlets as you need, and it costs like $50 for a single stage unit that will run your heaters.

If you want to do more with your tank, then go for a controller..........there are many choices to chose from.............Reef Angel, Apex, ReefAI, ReefKeeper.

 

[s_kelley]

Had a reef keeper lite for years and agree it's one of the best purchases I've made. Get it for the temp probe and controller and mess around w the rest. I did the same and had it controlling everything within weeks of getting it

 

[Jocko]

Yeah without getting into a RK vs. Apex war... there are definitely certain purchases that mark the beginning of a new chapter in one's reefing hobby. A controller is one of those purchases. It's one of those things where you can never go back again. Like getting a smartphone or an HDTV. If you can swing it, go for it. I'm an Apex man myself, but it's hard to argue with $123! Although agree with comment about network connectivity. Factor that cost in. You won't be able to hold out for long without it. LOL.

 

[delta]

Without a doubt the controller as you can control more than a standard heat controller. But as stated previously once you get a controller and realize what it can do, it is hard to go back from a pickle to a cucumber.

 

[dannyp02908]

And if you are a DIY kind of person, look into arduino based controllers.

 

[Bobbofin]

I actually bought a a Willhi WH9002A digital temp controller on Amazon for $23.00 today. It's single stage 110 volt / 5 amp. My heater is only 150 watts for my 40 breeder so the heater will only pull 1.3 amps. All I need to buy a project box, outlet, cord, cord strain relief and I have a lot better controller than a Blueline, JBJ, Finnex, etc. The whole project might cost me $40.00. I had a Neptune Reefkeeper II many years ago. Never really got too much use out of it other than heater control. If I want to turn something off I can just unplug it. All my cords are marked. My Reefbreeders LED light and Tunze 6040 pump come with controllers already. I looked at the reviews for the RKL and people have had problems with the power bars and the Apex is a little pricey for me just for a temp controller.

 

[Marshall O]

I am using something similar on 3 of my tanks. Same idea, but it also activates a chiller as well. I'll try and post a picture or two later on.

 

[Marshall O]

Here is mine:

 

[Bobbofin]

Marshall O,

Did you install a larger relay in the box, say a 10 or 15 amp, in the box and have the temp controller control that? Being a service tech I think about those things. The amp draw on the 5 amp relay for a chiller might be a little much, cause arcing and burning out of the points in the 5 amp controller relay. For my application, I'm only running a 150 watt heater, which pulls 1.3 amps so it's not an issue, but with a chiller kicking on and off the amps a refrigeration compressor draws at startup it might be a bit much. I repair commercial lobster tanks so I know about this first hand.
I have a bunch of convection ovens in the field that the control relays are on the main board. After several years the points burn out and the oven won't heat or worse fuse together and the thermal overload trips. I kind of scratch my head as a service tech and think, "what were the designers thinking when they engineered this?" They probably should have had the control board energize a PID solid state relay or a old reliable magnetic coil relay which is replaceable at a few hundred dollars instead of $3000 for a complete new control board. This is the issue I have with Blueline, JBJ, Finnex heater controllers. After my Finnex controller failed, in the "off position", thank God I opened it up. I found a very tiny relay with it's points charred with no amperage rating on it that I could find.

 

[Marshall O]

Marshall O,

Did you install a larger relay in the box, say a 10 or 15 amp, in the box and have the temp controller control that?

No I did not, as my "chiller" is just a fan on a heat sink. So it draws well less than an amp.

 

[Bobbofin]

I searched around and instead of buying the C° controller, STC-1000, I found a F° that had a few more options for a few dollars more. It cost $23 with shipping on Amazon and it is a Willhi 9002A controller from China.

 

[Marshall O]

The reason I like the STC-1000 is it does both heating and cooling. But if you only need heating, than the one you found will, certainly do the job!

 

[Bobbofin]

The reason I like the STC-1000 is it does both heating and cooling. But if you only need heating, than the one you found will, certainly do the job!

Yup, and who cares if it's C° of F°. Set in at 24° C and forget it. Make up a little chart for conversion a couple of degree each direction.