• ******* To read about the changes to the marketplace click here

Ideal QT: Scotts Fairy Wrasse-Ausy

Sokretys

Non-member
So im going to be getting a scotts velvet fairy wrasse asap. I have a bunch of different tanks around. 125, 75, 65, 29's, rubbermaids etc.

I currently have a hippo tang in my 29. I KNOW! badbadbad. He does appear to quite happy schooling in front of a koralia 2...BUT! needless to say i had good intentions to have him in a 125 or a 75 at the least many many months ago. Id like to have him in the qt at least as a temporary resident.

That being said, Do scotts like to bury themselves in the sand? i was thinking 1.5" of oolitic if thats the case. ill have an overflow down to a sump of some form with a g1x or g2. or its equivalent. BioBalls...pvc+ some baserock for a habitat.

What would be the best overall setup. id rather not go with a sponge filter though...ive had good luck with them, but i appreciate the convenience of a sump.
 
IMO sand in a QT is a waste. I QT'ed a yellow coris wrasse for a club member until pickup at a meeting (great deal at a LFS he lived too far away I was going there anyways) and didn't have any sand on the bottom and it was fine. It did stay near the bottom for the first few days and I could tell it probably wanted to dig but oh well :rolleyes: That's just my $.02
 
Fairy Wrasse do not bury in the sand. They make a mucus cocoon when they go to sleep. They like to settle down in a PVC pipe for the night.

Like Dave said, even when I am QTing a fish that burrows I do not give any sand. They may be pissed at first, but they will get used to it. Plus without sand they will quickly get onto our lighting and feeding schedule. This is one of the best way to QT a Leopard Wrasse. This way they have no choice but to be awake when we want them to.


No sand in the QT...kinda voids the point of a QT, as parasites can harbor in the sand. I wouldn't even do base rock.. Just a good bio filter and some PVC tubes for hiding.
 
I had to remove my hippo as it killed the first scotts I tried to put in. The scotts I have now is in my 180 and quite comfy. Does not bury sleeps in mucus.
scotts are strong fish AFTER they get acclimated but get very nervous upon first entering a tank if there are any fish that will pick on him I would try to remove it before adding the scotts, maybe for a week.

If you come across any female aussie scotts let me know I have been trying to get 1 or 2.
Your going to love the scotts in your system they are quite active after acclimating to the tank , mine even swims over to me when I am cleaning the tank walls.
 
Thanks for the insight guys. Unfortunately its not going into my own tank after qt. Just got a new client that has a 75. with maroon clown, yellow mimic tang, flame angle, royal gramma and a sand sifting goby (pink spotted?) That last fish was added 2 years ago. So im sure i will run into some aggression issues. But he wanted a fairy wrasse. I think a big super male will do the best once i get him parameters back to my liking.
 
I would go without lighting for a period if possible, maybe even cover the tank for a day with a sheet.
 
Keep in mind without a/some females a Supermale will lose its "super" colors, and if there is aggression from other tank mates could even turn to female.
IMO Scott's are OK, but really one of my least favorite Fairy Wrasse (IMO)

Paul,
Yes, NO liverock in the QT tank. The PVC should be more than ample hiding places for the fish. And the QT system should have a way oversized bio-filter.
 
I have about 5.85 gallons of bio balls in the 55g sump. which should handle at least 260 gallons. the whole mini system will have the sump, 75 and a 20l and 2x 10's on top for cleaners. i dont plan on medicating. but do plan on using instant oceans lifeguard. ive had a lot of success with it so far.

B-, this guy wants a fairy wrasse of some sort for his 75. my thinkin was go with the scotts since its one of the larger ones. perhaps a lineatus? Will they lose their coloring as well? I had considered a pair perhaps trio...but am concerned about the bio load. he has a remora pro with the rip 1200 and an eheim 2227/2229 canister. jack for flow other than that. upgrading to tunzes soon.

but yeah..with the given bio load, you think a trio would put it over the top?
 
Keep in mind without a/some females a Supermale will lose its "super" colors, and if there is aggression from other tank mates could even turn to female.
IMO Scott's are OK, but really one of my least favorite Fairy Wrasse (IMO)

Paul,
Yes, NO liverock in the QT tank. The PVC should be more than ample hiding places for the fish. And the QT system should have a way oversized bio-filter.

I have never heard of one reversing to a female?? is this really possible?? I thought they could only go from female to male?
 
I have about 5.85 gallons of bio balls in the 55g sump. which should handle at least 260 gallons. the whole mini system will have the sump, 75 and a 20l and 2x 10's on top for cleaners. i dont plan on medicating. but do plan on using instant oceans lifeguard. ive had a lot of success with it so far.

B-, this guy wants a fairy wrasse of some sort for his 75. my thinkin was go with the scotts since its one of the larger ones. perhaps a lineatus? Will they lose their coloring as well? I had considered a pair perhaps trio...but am concerned about the bio load. he has a remora pro with the rip 1200 and an eheim 2227/2229 canister. jack for flow other than that. upgrading to tunzes soon.

but yeah..with the given bio load, you think a trio would put it over the top?

I dont know about his system, but if you find a source with female aus scotts I am looking for 1 or 2 myself. :)
 
Paul,
Yes, NO liverock in the QT tank. The PVC should be more than ample hiding places for the fish. And the QT system should have a way oversized bio-filter.

I've got cured liverock in what are basically QT (or holding) tanks right now. So far no significant ammonia spikes and I've been doing ~ 15-20% daily water changes. The tanks have been running for a couple days.
 
Back
Top