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Kessil 360we's and anemones

Hello again,
I spent a good part of last night reading posts on a RC thread called The Kessil Club. I was hoping to finally get a defintive answer as to the right settings for the kessils. While alot of the tank sizes didn't match mine and they discussed using different models of the kessils I was able to get some useful info. I read where some people are running 100% intensity over 29 gal biocubes and others are running 50-60 intesity over much larger tanks. That wasn't very helpful but what i did take from it is, even though they appear dimmer than the mh that alot were transitioning from the intesity is still very strong and you need to start off low (40-45%) and slowly increase it, watching your livestock's reactions. Secondly, the color setting seems to be within + - 10% of intensity. Many of the people posting seem to feel you need more fixtures than what you would think were needed. By their calculations I would need 6 to even 8 over my tank. I don't necessarily agree with that though i am the one posting saying im having a problem. A reoccurring statement was "are your corals stretching". I wasn't familiar with this phrase though i get what they are talking about. It refers to, are your corals reaching for more light. No one talks about the corals not getting enough light at any level of the tank however the Kessils will burn a coral at any level if you dont use some form of acclimation settings when they are introduced and slowly build the intensity back up, monitoring the "reaching" and conversly the "bleaching". I honestly think I messed up and should have done the acclimation period with my nems and will do so if I get brave enough to add another one. I think I would start at 40% and work it to 60%, then raise it in increments of 5 a week and watch how livestock reacts. The total daylight period seems to range from 12 to 16 hours a day with at least 2/3 to 3/4 of it being max intensity. Most people on the thread are very happy the the Kessils and some post pictures of coral growth over time under the lights. I truely believe the issue with leds in general comes from the fact that we can make these adjustments and all tanks dimensions are different right down to rock work and placement of corals on the rock. Its a big change from the days of buying a mh or t5 fixture, picking the bulbs you want and plugging it in. I really think you just need to go slow, acclimate each time you introduce new critters and closely watch how they are reacting.

Hope this isnt too long winded and helps some people out.

Tom
 
Hello again,
I just want to pass along another thing I read on that thread that I found to be useful. One of the people has a matching kessil pendant in their basement running over the sump. They have a tray in the sump for new corals. They use that light to acclimate any new pieces so that they don't need to mess with the display Tanks light settings. I know it's an added cost to buy another pendant but with the amount of money we spend on our tanks it probably doesn't add up to that much if you are running a sump in your basement.
Thanks again,
Tom
 
These are all valid points and i will try increasing both the color and intensity by 5% every week..will probably do about 2% every 3 days or so to see if that helps
 
I made one change this morning and i reviewed my programming for intensity, it seems i was only peaking and holding for about an hour, i have increased that to 4hours. Next ill start to up the intensity

I also read that thread on RC and as i increase the intensity i will bump the color as well
 
There are a lot of different kinds of opinion online, the try and true method is to use a calibrated (very important) PAR meter to measure the light output around your tank. If you are getting around 350 PAR at the position where your anemone is, you are good to go.
 
They mention a pur measurement of light over the par reading. Is there a pur meter? They said it was the usable light measurement and that par wasn't as useful. This is getting way beyond my experience.

Thanks,
Tom
 
There is another thread on BRS about new par meter that works better with LED. I hope the club invests in getting one for us to share. I like to use it. For me light is not an issue anymore although it might be worth bumping up intensity a little over time. My coral issues are always related to other areas of husbandry.

I am very happy with the kessil/t5 combo I have now. I use to be an MH T5 fanboy but now I am an LED believer.
But IMHO LED still require florescent suplaments as do MH. But thats opinion not fact. Its working for me.

For example the reverse monti and rainbow monti in pictures are 6 - 9 months under kessil / t5.
If you look close you can see the reverse monti original frag piece on plug wedged in crack.
Same with zoas/palys frags collected over last 6 months.
Purple deaths and captain america are from last years BRS auction. About 3 of four polyp each.

IMG_0832_zpsqtjrkyfn.jpg

IMG_0834_zpsdaxhxpol.jpg

IMG_0827_zpsvnxovh7g.jpg
 
Your tank looks great. I really feel the t5's fill some void the leds have. I have nothing to back it up, just seems like every led tank i see with t5's running look great.
 
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