Looking for plumbing help

[jayteerq]

I am STRESSED. Did a water change last night on my 250g. Everything was smooth up until the time to turn return pump back on. Noticed a really loud humming vibration noise. Was only running at 50%. Pump is under a year old (Sicce SDC 7.0). I broke down the pump and noticed no issues, everything was clean. I noticed most the vibration noise coming from the soft silicone tubing that connects to the barb then hard plumbing. I have been recommended to just remove the silicone tubing and plumb hard plumbing the entire return line.

Second problem is… as I was messing around with my return line. I got a water drop on my head… lol my bulk head started dripping!! I assume from me moving the return line while diagnosing where the vibration noise was coming from. Bulk head did not like that at all.

Problem is I am very anxious about redoing this and would much rather prefer someone with more knowledge to help! If anyone who is knowledgeable has some free time anytime and would like to come help me. I would appreciate it so much. I can buy whatever parts I need to do the work so it’s just a matter of assistance with the rework. Can supply pizza and beer and even pay for your time. Thanks in advance.

 

[BiGGiePauls33]

Just give the bulkhead nut a 1/4 turn with some channel locks or let the salt creep build up and cauterize itself.

 

[Duds]

I agree with @BiGGiePauls33, you can even just turn the smallest amount and keep checking. That way you’re not stressing about cracking the tank from over tightening.

Your other part for me that’s completely reverse thinking from what I do. The soft tubing will help quiet down any noises and vibrations, hard lined will just make it worse.

 

[jayteerq]

I agree with @BiGGiePauls33, you can even just turn the smallest amount and keep checking. That way you’re not stressing about cracking the tank from over tightening.

Your other part for me that’s completely reverse thinking from what I do. The soft tubing will help quiet down any noises and vibrations, hard lined will just make it worse.

That’s what I initially thought about the return plumbing so idk why it’s making such a loud vibration noise. I ended up turning the bulkhead a half turn and it stopped dripping. Makes me nervous about longevity now though.

 

[Duds]

That’s what I initially thought about the return plumbing so idk why it’s making such a loud vibration noise. I ended up turning the bulkhead a half turn and it stopped dripping. Makes me nervous about longevity now though.

I would say it’s more you didn’t have it tight enough from the start but it was just in the right position to prevent any drips. Since you played with the plumbing it then started dripping. I wouldn’t worry personally

 

[Cpage101]

That’s what I initially thought about the return plumbing so idk why it’s making such a loud vibration noise. I ended up turning the bulkhead a half turn and it stopped dripping. Makes me nervous about longevity now though.

did you put your flapper check valve in backwards

 

[Spaceman]

I’m going to start offering service through Classic Corals, and this is definitely something I can help with. Personally, I almost never recommend using a check valve unless it’s absolutely necessary. In this setup, the check valve is so close to the pump that it can transfer vibration instead of reducing it. The silicone connector is supposed to absorb and dampen that vibration, but yours is just too short to do its job.

Also, make sure the pump is sitting on a proper vibration-absorbing mat. Those small changes make the system run smoother and a lot quieter, and they give the whole setup a more professional look.

 

[JBendel]

Has the vibration noise stopped?

There was a power outaged here and after cranking up the generator, checked the tank and the return pump was making vibration noise / zip water flow ... the Flapper in the antisiphon valve was stuck closed. Ditched the antisphon valve and just tapped a 1/4" hose fitting into the returns to break siphon, if the tank water drops ~ 1"

 

[jayteerq]

Has the vibration noise stopped?

There was a power outaged here and after cranking up the generator, checked the tank and the return pump was making vibration noise / zip water flow ... the Flapper in the antisiphon valve was stuck closed. Ditched the antisphon valve and just tapped a 1/4" hose fitting into the returns to break siphon, if the tank water drops ~ 1"

Yeah it’s weird. It was giving me an awful noise for about 30 min. Then stopped on its own lol. Not sure what it was

 

[Reefried]

Glad it is gone. I always thought the same, and in the past would use a little tubing before hard pipe. Now I just go full pvc and it’s not any louder.

I also do not like check valves. I would avoid them unless I absolutely could not.

 

[BiGGiePauls33]

Glad it is gone. I always thought the same, and in the past would use a little tubing before hard pipe. Now I just go fill pvc and it’s not any louder.

I also do not like check valves. I would avoid them unless I absolutely could not.

Same, this system is straight hard plumbed.

 

[Reefried]

Same, this system is straight hard plumbed.View attachment 226857View attachment 226858

Exactly. This is what I do too.

And check valves can be super annoying. They need to be cleaned at least once a year, maybe twice. And for most tanks and sumps they are not necessary. If I had a 250 with a 30 gallon sump I would probably use a check valve. But with most current tanks and sump sizes, just positioning the return output high enough should take care of siphon break and added sump volume during return pump power loss

 

[jayteerq]

Lol well I’m dumb as rocks because I installed a check valve on my return plumbing but not my main drain. When return is off, tank drains like 4” down to the main drain line

 

[jayteerq]

Lol well I’m dumb as rocks because I installed a check valve on my return plumbing but not my main drain. When return is off, tank drains like 4” down to the main drain line

Thank goodness my sump can hold the amount. I want to install a check valve on my main drain but don’t have the confidence to not screw it up. The sump is very close to over flowing when I turn off power and I don’t like the thought of that

 

[Chris.Reef]

Do not install check valves on your drains. 1 there is no need and 2 they could get clogged.

If your sump is almost overflowing when the power is off you will either need to get a bigger sump or lower the water level in the display. For the IM tanks you will want the water just barely going down the secondary overflow and the majority of the water going down the primary overflow which should have a gate valve on it to throttle the flow.

The secondary drain is what sets the water level in the display and you can shorten the stub to lower the level which in turn will send less water to the sump when the pump stops.

You will also want to make sure there is a check valve on the return or better yet a anti siphone hole on your return line nozzles so there isnt a siphone going back down into your sump through your return pump piping.

 

[jayteerq]

Do not install check valves on your drains. 1 there is no need and 2 they could get clogged.

If your sump is almost overflowing when the power is off you will either need to get a bigger sump or lower the water level in the display. For the IM tanks you will want the water just barely going down the secondary overflow and the majority of the water going down the primary overflow which should have a gate valve on it to throttle the flow.

The secondary drain is what sets the water level in the display and you can shorten the stub to lower the level which in turn will send less water to the sump when the pump stops.

You will also want to make sure there is a check valve on the return or better yet a anti siphone hole on your return line nozzles so there isnt a siphone going back down into your sump through your return pump piping.

Yeah. I actually raised the secondary drain to increase my water level lol. I thought the stock height sat too low and i wanted it higher. I guess that's the price to pay. But yes, currently, the water is trickling into secondary.

 

[Reefried]

I am confused. Most people install check valves on their return (to tank from pump) because their return outputs are positioned too low in display. Or because their sump cannot handle amount of tank drain to sump when return pump power is lost.

You said your tank drains 4” when return pump is shut off. How is this possible? Shouldn’t back-flow to the sump stop as soon as water in display becomes lower than the teeth on your weir? Assuming return outputs are not lower than weir teeth thus creating a back siphon through return outputs? I would assume the teeth of your internal or external overflow box are not 4” below the water line while tank is running?

 

[Spaceman]

Lol well I’m dumb as rocks because I installed a check valve on my return plumbing but not my main drain. When return is off, tank drains like 4” down to the main drain line

Now thats a terrible idea check valves are only for poorly designed tanks

 

[jayteerq]

I am confused. Most people install check valves on their return (to tank from pump) because their return outputs are positioned too low in display. Or because their sump cannot handle amount of tank drain to sump when return pump power is lost.

You said your tank drains 4” when return pump is shut off. How is this possible? Shouldn’t back-flow to the sump stop as soon as water in display becomes lower than the teeth on your weir? Assuming return outputs are not lower than weir teeth thus creating a back siphon through return outputs? I would assume the teeth of your internal or external overflow box are not 4” below the water line while tank is running?

I’ll try to explain it better. I’ve told others before, it was my first time plumbing and I am really clueless so idk I winged it. Bayareareefer has the same tank and he recommended I increase the height of the secondary drain pipe in the overflow box to raise my water level because stock water level on this tank was quite low. I had agreed. So I added an extra inch to my secondary. So now, my water level is an extra inch high. I just measured the water level in the overflow box and it’s sitting at 4.5”. Maybe a bad idea. If you guys think it’s a recipe for disaster, I can easily remove secondary drain pipe and bring it back to stock height. I’m open to learning and this was just a subject I had no clue on. But hey my water height is really nice lol I like how full the tank looks.

 

[jayteerq]

Now thats a terrible idea check valves are only for poorly designed tanks

That’s kind of you. I’ll make sure I hire you to do the plumbing for my next tank.