Neptune Aquacontroller Junior and DC4HD Problem

[Chuck Spyropulos]

I recently bought the AC Jr and two of the recommended DC4HDs. The DC4HD is a box with 4 outlets each of which is controlled via the AC Jr. These boxes use a "direct connect X10 signal" as opposed to a conventional X10 signal. You simply connect the AC Jr to the DC4HD via a phone plug and you are supposed to get noise free control. These units are recommended by Neptune for use with noisy ballasts that create intereference with conventional X10 signals. The DC4HDs are supposed to be Heavy Duty but I am having what I think is a heat related issue with these units.

My problem is that my lights are switching ON ok but not OFF. Neptune Tech support says the problem may be heat realated. This makes sense since everything works on my work bench. But once installed in my hood, the units do not switch off my MH lights. The max ambient operating temperature, according to Tech Support, is only 105 degrees F! So apparently when all the lights are ON the temperature inside the hood rises and the units stop functioning! These things cost me $150.00 each! My $20 Digital Electornic Intermatic Timers have been working fine for 5 years! I think they are having trouble keeping the internal box temerature down which is why the units are spec'd with such a low max ambient operating temperature. Come on, these things are recommended to be used with MH lighting, which is a huge heat source! I could use long extension cords on my ballasts but I just heard another story of one of these DC4HDs melting (see link below).

See the thread below for another story from Richard Durso....his DC4HD actually melted! I smell smoke

I am returning everything back to Marine Depot for a full refund....it is really too bad since the AC Jr is really great! It is much more flexible than my Octopus 3000 with a really great programming interface, without any additional software to by! But I bought it to specifically control my lights and to shut off the lights if the water temperature got to high (something my Octopus 3000 does not do!), and to clean up the rat's nest in my hood. But I will not risk a house fire!

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=660342&highlight=Aquacontroller

 

[starrfish]

Chuck - that's too bad to hear. I was thinking of getting the AC Jr. What about if you used the X10 modules with the noise filter that they sell?

 

[ScottM]

sounds like its a DC4HD issue rather than the actual controller.
X10 modules are the way to go IMO

 

[Chuck Spyropulos]

Noise Filter

I have tried all of that with my Octopus 3000 and it did not work. There are 2 types of filters: one that does not allow any X10 into or out of a noisy device not requiring X10 control, and a narrowband filter module that lets X10 through to an X10 device and filters out the input noise.

I tried both of these including X10 signal amplifier/bridges but still did not get reliable performance with my "Noisy" ballasts. I think that the problem is that the noise in my powerlines and ballasts is radiating, i.e. electromagnetic interference. Inline filters can filter out some noise conducted through the power and signal cables but nothing can filter out electromagnetic noise from the ballasts and/or powerlines.

However for newer, lower noise ballasts these filters and amplifiers could allow reliable conventional X10 control via the Aquacontroller or the Octopus. So if you have newer ballasts you may get reliable X10 control using conventional X10, possibly but not necessarily with the use of X10 filters, amplifiers, etc.

I really like the Aquacontroller better than the Octopus and the Junior model is really all you need. My problem is with the DC4HDs so don't count out the AC Junior for your application....it may work really well. FU!!!!

Chuck - that's too bad to hear. I was thinking of getting the AC Jr. What about if you used the X10 modules with the noise filter that they sell?

 

[Chuck Spyropulos]

X10

Yes, Scott, for newer, less noisy MH ballasts it is probably the way to go. But I am stuck with the old noisy Blueline ballasts and was hoping that the DC4HDs would allow me to control the lights with the AC Junior.....But the whole setup cost me $500.00! I may look into replacing my 4 old ballasts with the new Icecaps. I need 2 250 Watt MH electronic icecap ballasts and 2 400 Watt MH icecap electronic ballasts.....I bet I could get the 4 of them for under $500 which is what I will probably do once I return from vacation!
Then I could control the lights via my Octopus 3000 via conventional X10 control....sounds like a plan!

sounds like its a DC4HD issue rather than the actual controller.
X10 modules are the way to go IMO

 

[Reef55]

Interesting... I have been using a Neptune AQ2 for about 6 months now, all X-10 modules. I have PFO HQI 400 watt ballasts, a 400 watt electronic MH ballast, an icecap 660, and a lights of america 65 watt PC for lights, all controlled by them. I have various other pumps and fans and other stuff on them too, and haven't had any problems.

 

[starrfish]

FU!!!!

 

[Deafasa]

105 degrees is very hot for electronics gear. I don't know what they have in those units, but I am betting they have some silicon chips that are not rated beyond standard consumer\business class use. A mechanical timer (or standard X-10 module) would have no problem functioning.

I would bet in the near future there will be a warning not to mount the boxes in lighting canopies.

Jeff

The max ambient operating temperature, according to Tech Support, is only 105 degrees F! So apparently when all the lights are ON the temperature inside the hood rises and the units stop functioning!

 

[Aquaman_68]

Yes, Scott, for newer, less noisy MH ballasts it is probably the way to go. But I am stuck with the old noisy Blueline ballasts and was hoping that the DC4HDs would allow me to control the lights with the AC Junior.....But the whole setup cost me $500.00! I may look into replacing my 4 old ballasts with the new Icecaps. I need 2 250 Watt MH electronic icecap ballasts and 2 400 Watt MH icecap electronic ballasts.....I bet I could get the 4 of them for under $500 which is what I will probably do once I return from vacation!
Then I could control the lights via my Octopus 3000 via conventional X10 control....sounds like a plan!

Dump the blueline ballasts & the noise filters will work on with other ballasts such as the new ice caps. (as long as they are not 400 watt....You run 250's right?)
The problem with the bluelines is the cables that connect to the ballast as well as noise from inside. That is why the noise filter doesn't work. Chuck, You have, singled your interference noise being cause by the ballasts correct? I've seen a blueline pump causing interference in an x-10 circut as well.
I run x-10 via the octopus 3000 & I had to run a noise filter on the 400 watt ice cap ballast which wasn't even hooked up to x-10. It was on a seperate circuit swiched on by an independent ice cap timer too. After much research (like always it seems!!!) I found out the x-10 circuit uses the ground wire for it's signal. So.........figure it out. Any noise from another circuit can travel into your x-10 circuit via the ground...Which is connected to all other circuit. The only way to eliminate the noise is by seperating the ground to the x-10 circuit down at the fuse panel where all the grounds are connected together. I talked to a local electrical store & they said they had some kind of unit that could be installed to do this. I think I recall it was alot of money though.
The bluelines have two areas of noise leaking out .....one from the cables & one internally. You can block the one internal but not the one from the cables & that is why the noise filters did not work for you.

HTH

B