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nuclear option for bubble algea

Jahn

Non-member
I can't stand it anymore, want to get rid of it, permenantly.
Plan to move corals and fish to another tank for a while.
For the main tank, is there any option ( chemical warfare) that will eradicate the bubble algea? collateral damage at that point won't matter.
then water changes, carbon, and a few weeks and reintroduce fish.
I don't want to break down the main tank 90G, some of the rock has been there 5 years, but if there are no other options....
Any reasonable/ unreasonable suggestions welcome
 
I had a really bad problem with it a few years back and I added like 30+ emerald crabs into my 120 and it was just about gone after a month or 2. I am starting to get it again, it was on some stuff I got a few months ago, so I am going to do the same thing again real soon.
 
I had a bad problem with it too. My best defense after physical removal, and the emeralds was a 40g breeder tank down in my basement with a 6" DSB tied into the system, and a phosban reactor.

No fertilizer, no algae.....
 
I have also had success with emerald crabs. You can always remove them after they finish their job.
 
I'd say it's your rock, being 5 years old, is the cause of your bubble algae. Emeralds will/may clean it up, but I think it will just come back because of some phosphates locked in the rock.
I have the same issue, I'll have eventually exchange some old rock, with new. The old rock will be cooked until no phoshates are detected.
 
i had it bad a while back, i took a chance getting a foxface, between the foxface and 1/2 a dozen emerald crabs i no longer had any....
 
A+ on the emeralds had it bad on my 125 dropped 5 emeralds in there and ripped off all the big stuff been about 3 weeks no so sign of it
 
emerald crabs seem like a good idea, but the backside of the overflow was covered, concerned that the crabs might block the pipes.
Does anyone know if fresh water algeacide would work on bubble algea?
 
I would avoid chemicals at all costs and do the Emerald Crab thing.

It works really well.
 
phosphate filter killed everything except hair algae for me.
Emerald crabs IMHO are completely useless to combat a algae problem, don't bother.
 
i wouldnt use an agleacide with corals. i also dont know if its your rock or more so the fact you the spores are already in your system without any control factor. foxfaces will eat it and some tangs and as many said it emerald crabs too. use a control agent before a chemical.
 
dont just get 2 or 3 crabs--you need to get a bunch just like pep shrimp to help against aptasia
 
sorry to bring back an older thread, but rather than start a new one.

How many emeralds would you suggest for a bubble algae problem in a 65g tank?
 
4 to 5 emerald crabs or 1 ea. Foxface and/or Scopas Tang. Had a clam come in to my tank with the shell covered. No sign of any after 24 hours. Two of the best nuisance algae cleaners out there. Crabs will do it also but much slower process. You want it gone now, those two fish will do it for you!
 
4 to 5 emerald crabs or 1 ea. Foxface and/or Scopas Tang. Had a clam come in to my tank with the shell covered. No sign of any after 24 hours. Two of the best nuisance algae cleaners out there. Crabs will do it also but much slower process. You want it gone now, those two fish will do it for you!

yeah, would be nice to have it gone really fast but I think both of those fish will be too big for my tank. I might be able to do a small foxface just for this purpose but would have to get rid of it after a few months.
 
Nutrient control. All other measures are short term fixes IMO.

Things to look at...

What kind of bio-load do you have?

How is your flow?

Feeding,
-What are you feeding?
-How much are you feeding?
-If you feed frozen, do you rinse it?

Maintenance...
-Regular water changes?
-Using RO/DI?
-Skimming efficiently?
-Are you regularly blowing off the rock-work?
-How about the sump, is there built up "muck" on the bottom?

I am sure I am missing some stuff, but that is a good starting point/list I think. If you have an algae problem, predators are nice, but you need to go after the root of the problem or you are just masking it.
 
Nutrient control. All other measures are short term fixes IMO.

Things to look at...

What kind of bio-load do you have?

How is your flow?

Feeding,
-What are you feeding?
-How much are you feeding?
-If you feed frozen, do you rinse it?

Maintenance...
-Regular water changes?
-Using RO/DI?
-Skimming efficiently?
-Are you regularly blowing off the rock-work?
-How about the sump, is there built up "muck" on the bottom?

I am sure I am missing some stuff, but that is a good starting point/list I think. If you have an algae problem, predators are nice, but you need to go after the root of the problem or you are just masking it.

Awesome list Dave! There is some stuff on there that I should definitely look over. If something in there is my problem will bubble algae eventually eradicate itself over time if parameters were off or due to faults in my maintenance schedule or will they continue to remain but not get any worse?
I have been trying lately to remove it physically but there are definitely areas where I can not reach.

Thankfully its not too bad, you really have look close to really see that it is there is certain spots but the fact that it is there bothers me and I want it gone.
 
As for what you have mentioned:

I feed a variety of foods from pellets to flake to froze brine and mysis. Although I do not rinse the frozen food, I guess thats a first place to start. I feed every other day.

I do about a 15% water change every two weeks. Should I start doing bigger changes every two weeks or smaller every week.

As for my bio-load I only have a Clown, Watchman Goby, Fairy Wrasse, and a Coral Beauty so I believe I am on the lighter side of that.

I do not have a RO unit but do my water changes with pre-mixed water from Skiptons and use RO/DI from the local grocery to do my top offs with. I have tested this water and have not tested and phosphates in it.

No Sump
 
Awesome list Dave! There is some stuff on there that I should definitely look over. If something in there is my problem will bubble algae eventually eradicate itself over time if parameters were off or due to faults in my maintenance schedule or will they continue to remain but not get any worse?
I have been trying lately to remove it physically but there are definitely areas where I can not reach.

Thankfully its not too bad, you really have look close to really see that it is there is certain spots but the fact that it is there bothers me and I want it gone.

Correcting the problem will take time. I would suggest a combination of manual removal and/or predators in addition to the improvements in your maintenance practices. You will find in time that the stuff just wont come back and less and less work is required to keep it out of your system. The key is to stick with the maintenance even when it seems that you are "done". A reefer's work is never "done". ;)
 
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