Pro Carpenters/DIY'ers...Cantilever a tank?

[naturebatslast]

Not really, but I want to cantilever, or just diagonally support, the tank about 8 inches. All in all about 8" in overhang. The tank is going in a "built-in cabinet"/old curio - more or less a box with a top, open at the front. So far I'm reinforcing bracketing and support, thankfully everything is mounted over my floor joists.

The tank is a 40 breeder, 3ft x 18 inch footprint, with the plumbing more like 3 ft x 22 inches. The top of the built in cabinet is 4 ft x 15 inches.

Can I just expand out and support the top through reinforcement/bracketing, then diagonally support the ends and middle with studs going to the joists.

 

[KJB]

Its tough to figure out EXACTLY what your doing, but I think I understand.

The general rule of thumb for cantilevering anything structurally is this: You can go out 1 amount for every 2 amounts back in. Meaning, if you wanted to cantilever joists out 4'-0", you would need to have 8'-0" supported back in. So, if your going to go out 0'-8", then you should have at least (minimum) 1'-4" supported back.

If the amount of support (lateral 2X4) is going to have the tank sitting on it completely, you should be fine (40 breeder, right?). If you are going to slide the tank forward to sit out on the cantilevered part, and leave space in the back for plumbing, that may be a bit sketchy....I personally would not do that. If you support the cantilevered section by adding a support (legs)straight down from each corner to the floor, then it MAY be alright to slide the tank forward to allow for plumbing in the back.

I hope this helps

20+ years carpentry experience. Lic. builder, const. supervisor, Gen. Contractor

 

[naturebatslast]

Thanks KGB! I may just be overhanging with about 9" out, and I think that I can do it with 3 2x4 diagonal supports, all anchored on the joists. I'll post a pic when I get home.

 

[reeferpj]

if your coming out 9'' i would put some nice posts on each corner. you should be Abel to get some thing to match your cabinet

 

[coralcor]

this is going to be cool

 

[reeferpj]

20+ years carpentry experience. Lic. builder, const. supervisor, Gen. Contractor

you looking for help

 

[KJB]

I may be in a month...send me a PM with some info.

 

[Lanesville Seahorse]

Hi,

I have cantilevered one of my 92 gals corner bows last year. I found that it is not only difficult but also stressful. Figure that the structure should not move, even a 1/8" for the life of your tank.
I have posted my information with a few pictures on a system that worked for me in the introductions forum named new to Boston Refers Seahorse and Corals.
Best of luck

 

[naturebatslast]

I've posted some pictures here, but here's reinforced the "base" cabinet. Looks like the location of an old/original doorway.
The overhang is going on today. And thinking about using 2 pieces of sandwiched 3/4" ply cut to cut as arches. Thankfully this is only 40 gallons.
Here's some more images....
http://www.flickr.com/photos/99864455@N00/tags/stand/

 

[snowmaker]

Could support front beam with a pair of balusters or smallish newel posts... say 3.5" x 36 or whatever length needed.. Like:
http://www.pagliacco.com/Balusters_newels.html
This option would be strong.
Trick tying new addition of deck at front into existing plank deck which I remember being trimmed in with the 1/4 round...
Looking at pic again, the deck almost looks crowned, like the center 2x4 is a tad long? Hard to tell from pic.

3, 45' angle braces? Kind of like under my balcony (not sure if you've seen) I think you mentioned. Make sure the "right angle part" of the right triangles - which will be in position against existing beam you made, is bomb proof. The 2x4's on 45' angle should handle the downward compression no problem, but the tensional force exerted (tank falling toward you) or like grabbing the top inside of your brace and pulling it toward you - that force could be high and fastening should be very strong for it. --- Hope that makes sense.

 

[KJB]

Having just thought about it......You ARE putting the 2X4's on edge, not the flat, right? If you are planning on laying them flat, don't. They will sag very quickly.

Everything in the pictures looks really good. Keep up the good work!

 

[naturebatslast]

Almost Done.
Before, butt ugly.

Almost done...thanks to St Joe and St Matt

I'll post more this week. A little left in shutting down the fish room for a smaller, more contained footprint. Just finished painting, have to baffle the sump, plumb in a 55g barrel with 60#'s of LR, drill holes for plumbing, cut the lip to fit, mount the display and then finally, enjoy.

 

[reeferpj]

looks great

 

[bigdog]

i think u will be fine just the way it is overhanging just make sure u us good glue and long screws just my 2 cents

 

[paulthomas]

looks great

+1 on that.

 

[naturebatslast]

Just need to
-add some sand and more LR
-switch out a Mag 9.5 for a Maxijet 5500, running both the return and the skimmer (downsizing by about 50 watts, yay!)
-remove a mag pump on the skimmer
-add a 1" plexi extension on the overflow
-find a nice little piece of wood trim for the front lip
-make a new T5 4 bulb light then
-build a new, slimmer canopy for said light, then I'm done.
The stand is sweet, it didn't budge whatsoever, no slow creak when filling, no sagging, no front or back pitch. Really solid, thanks again to Joe/Snowmaker and Matt/bunsenburner. More or less traded my fish room for about 4 barrels and a 40 breeder, with a total volume of about 110-120g.I'll post a sump pic later

DIY triangular overflow is working sweetly with a nice uniform surface skim.

"Custom" PVC bend (can you say offgas(!), best done outside), bulkhead is a standard 1.75" Uniseal that accepts 1" PVC pipe...about $0.79, my type of part! The standard bulkheads were just too long for a space of only 5". Really happy that worked so well.

 

[snowmaker]

Yay!
You're coming down the home stretch! Nice to have your tank back where you can enjoy it more.
Looks great!