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Should I change my RODI Filters?

GobyWanKenobie

Well-Known Member
BRS Member
Is it a bad idea to change my rodi filters when the water is so cold? I have the extra 25 feet in a bucket of very warm water, but my rodi is still just a drip. My filters are over a year old, but I don't want to ruin my new membranes by doing this when the water is so fridgid. I usually change them in August, but the calendar got away from me. My TDS appears to be O.K., but I can't keep up with the evaporation and normal water changes at this rate. My plan is to change them later this afternoon. Any opinions?
 
My well water is frigid and I just replaced my filters. I don't see an issue. I see a bigger issue not changing them.

The cold water should at most cut your output by 25pct. I have a 150gpd system and in the winter im now changing my flow restrictor to a 100gpd to compensate.
 
I change my sediment filter every 3 months, carbon filters every 6 months, DI once/yr. I make 10 gallon/week, this is based on color of the sediment filter and pressure drop during use. But everyone's water is different.
 
I changed everything, and it's running 100% better. Thanks for the input. :)
 
Don't let the water temperature affect when you change your filters - the temperature of the water has nothing to do with your "filter-changing-schedule." Here's some info from our FAQ's that might be helpful:

A good rule of thumb is to replace your sediment filter and carbon block after six months. A more precise way to maximize the usable life of these two filters is to use a pressure gauge to identify when pressure reaching the membrane starts to decline. This is your indication one or more of the prefilters (all the filters that touch the water before it reaches the RO membrane) is beginning to clog.

Also be cognizant of the chlorine capacity of the carbon block. A good 0.5 micron carbon block for example will remove much of the chlorine from 20,000 gallons of tap water presented at 1 gpm. Some original equipment suppliers commonly provide carbon cartridges rated at 2,000 to 6,000 gallons. Remember that all the water you process, both waste water and purified water, goes through the carbon block.

Regarding your RO membrane and DI resin, use your total dissolved solids (TDS) meter to measure, record, and track the TDS (expressed in parts per million [ppm]) in three places: 1) tap water, 2) after the RO but before the DI, and 3) after the DI.

The TDS in your tap water will likely range from about 50 ppm to upwards of 1000 ppm. Common readings are 100 to 400 ppm. So for sake of discussion, let's say your tap water reads 400 ppm. That means that for every million parts of water, you have 400 parts of dissolved solids. How do we go about getting that TDS reading down to somewhere near zero?

If you do some experimenting with your TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block do very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm, you can measure the water at the “in” port on your RO membrane housing and you'll see it is still approximately 400 ppm.

The RO membrane is really the workhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to a greater extent than others. For instance, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes have a rejection rate of 96% (i.e., they reject 96% of the dissolved solids in the feed water). So the purified water coming from your 100 gpd membrane would be about 16 ppm (a 96% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce purified water (a.k.a. “permeate”) more slowly, but have a higher rejection rate (96 to 99%). The lifespan of an RO membrane is dependent upon how much water you run through it, and how “dirty” the water is. Membranes can function well for a year, two years, or more. To test the membrane, measure the TDS in the water coming into the membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane. Compare that to the membrane’s advertised rejection rate, and to the same reading you recorded when the membrane was new. Membranes also commonly produce purified water more slowly as their function declines.

After the RO membrane, water will flow to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the TDS in the RO water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or 1 ppm, your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes you'll hear people complain that their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is a malfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin high TDS water. This will exhaust the resin quicker than would otherwise have been the case. Sometimes the problem is poor quality resin – remember that all resins are not created equal.

Additionally, don’t forget to sanitize the entire system at least once per year, and wash and lube your housing o-rings with food-grade silicone grease every filter change.

Russ
 
Thanks for the information. I never thought about sanitizing my system. What's the best way to do that?
 
We recommend sanitizing your RO or RODI system at least once per year. Schedule this
process at a time when you are planning to replace your cartridges. These instructions apply
to water purification systems without a pressure tank. Before you begin assure that you have
about an hour available, and that your work area and hands are clean. You’ll be working with
household bleach - prepare the work area accordingly.
Turn off the water supply to the system.
Remove all housings and remove all pre-filters and post-filters from the system including
sediment filters, carbon filters, in-line filters, and deionization cartridges. Remove the reverse
osmosis membrane(s).
Wash housings with a soft brush or cloth in warm soapy water. Rinse thoroughly to remove
all soap. Don’t forget to carefully remove and wash all o-rings. Lubricate the o-rings with a
small amount of food grade silicone grease and reinstall them.
Fill the first prefilter housings 3/4 full with potable water and one tablespoon of plain,
unscented household bleach. With this sanitizing liquid in the housing, screw the housing
back on to the system.
Turn on the water supply a bit, allow water to fill the entire system, and assure water is
flowing out of the waste line and the purified water line. Place the outlet of the drain tube and
purified water tube slightly higher than the system to assure these tubes are full of the
sanitizing solution. When the sanitizing solution has reached the outlet of each tube, and
with the outlet of each tube placed above the rest of the system, shut off the water supply for
30 minutes. The full 30 minute soak may not be necessary in all situations.
After 30 minutes, turn the water supply on and assure that water exits the system from both
the drain tube and the purified water port. Flush the sanitizing solution from the system for 5
to 10 minutes, or until the strong odor of chlorine can no longer be detected.
Turn off the water supply and install new filters, taking care to rinse the filters as appropriate.
We recommend keeping a maintenance record for your system. Record the date of the
sanitizing and filter replacement.

Don't forget - all our instruction sets can be found on our website!

Russ
 
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