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starting Led build 40 gallon breeder

robanister

Well-Known Member
BRS Member
Im starting my 40 gallon breeder Led Light build
what i have so far:

25 white prolight led 3w $50 1 extra

15 blue prolight led 3w $30 3 extra

2x Heat sink 19"x10.5" $80

think im going to order 3 meanwell eln 60-48d decided against buckpucks.
Have not decided on 60 degree or 35degree optics maybe both

Pics will be up soon as i get started with mounting leds:
Will use a 4 fan unit to cool heatsinks that i had from a prevous nano tank
 
Where did you pick up the LEDs
 
leds

ebay shipped from china made an offer to seller to get cheaper took 2 weeks to get
 
i would not use the 35 deg optics unless the fixture was mounted rather high
 
going to set it up in this way

x x x x x x----to eln 60 #1+
o o o o o o----to eln 60 #2+
x x x x x x-----to eln 60 #1-

o= blue
x= white

same for 2nd heat sink

thinking 60 degree optic on blue and alternating 60* and 45* for white

leds will be 3"x2" apart to leave room for future 5 blue 5 whie leds to go between whites and
blues

will look like this for each fixture

x x x x x x
x o x o x
o o o o o o
o x o x o
x x x x x x

might change configuration when i wire up 12 leds and see how they look.
 
If you use any optics over a 40 breeder you will cook your corals unless you have the light extremely high!
 
Seems like a lot of white, usually it's 50/50. I agree with the others, I would hold off on the optics. Especially the 45, that would be like a freakin lazer. ;)

I also prefer the xo approach as opposed to you layout. Just concerned the light may not be that even.

Good luck.
 
suggestions

Im trying to produce about 250 mh. want to grow acro from top to bottom...if you think i need less i have a nano to do as well so let me know what you think i might need to change. wasnt going to put optics on right away. was going to wait to order. 1st led build wish i had tried it sooner. im already cheaper than my 8-t5ho on my current 55gallon.
 
60 or even 80 will let you keep acro on the sandbed. i keep acro in my 15 (12 inches tall i think) on the sand with no optics and my lights are like 5 inches off the water
 
finished

Finally finished light...will post sometime this week with all the details and exact costs of all materials...thanks for all the thaughts....i went with my original plan came out great. no optics needed.
 
led

here you go with whites on
 

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Hi everyone just wanted to give an update on led build . I have added a 5w 15k in the middle of my tank. Also growth rates are doing great. If i had to do again i might replace every other white led with a blue to promote color of acros. My main pic shows progression. I decided not to go with any optics. Also dont worry about the thermal compound it doesnt work that great just use some super glue.
 
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If i had to do again i might replace every other white led with a blue to promote color of acros.

that would be a good idea.

I decided not to go with any optics.

also a good idea.

Also dont worry about the thermal compound it doesnt work that great just use some super glue.

this is a BAD idea. super glue is not thermally conductive. not only will it become dry and brittle with extended exposure to heating/cooling cycles, but what you have effectively done is thermally isolate the heat-generating LEDs from the heat-absorbing and heat-dissipating heatsink, thus drastically reducing the life of your LEDs and generating heat that will be radiated into your tank rather than away from it. you should have used thermal adhesive gel or thermal adhesive pads.
 
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Fyi super glue is use around led heatsink not under...and have had issues with thermal adhesives. And no you dont need ...see links for those who have just screwed the led to heatsink. the heatsink does the cooling not the thermal conductor. as long as heatsink is cool so is the led. I originally used thermal adhesive and had to replace every led i used it on.
 
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yes, i clearly stated that the thermal adhesive was simply transferring heat between the diode and the sink. that was my point. and yes, i am well aware that people have used screws to attach LEDs to the heatsink. in that case, the back of the diode is in direct contact with the heatsink, thus effectively transferring the heat generated by the LED. if there is a non-thermally-conductive material (i.e. super glue) between the metal back of the diode and the heatsink, it will act as an insulator and not a conductor, thereby retarding the transfer of heat between the two metal components. i maintain that super glue will become brittle after repeating cycles of heating and cooling.

i'm not trying to get into a pissing match with you. quite frankly, it doesn't impact me one way or the other if your LEDs prematurely burn out or completely fall off into your tank. i'm simply trying to pass on some helpful information to assist you in protecting what was no doubt a costly investment in your tank setup.
 
as long as heatsink is cool so is the led.

this is true IF AND ONLY IF the the two components are joined in a manner that promotes thermal conductivity. if the two were isolated from one another, the LED could be quite hot while the heatsink remained cool.
 
Even with screwing the led to a heat sink your suppose to use thermal grease to have the heat dissipation fron the diode to the heat sink.
 
Thanks for your input matt and jon. And I am glad you brought that up. I dont want to get in to it eather just letting you all know what has worked for me and hope it may help others. Also watch out for titanium products when using thermal compounds make sure they dont come in contact with aquarium water otherwise you might have fish die off....ie titanium dioxide poisoning killing fish by getting in gills.
PS this is right from artic silvers msds "Avoid runoff into storm sewers and ditches that lead to waterways. Water runoff can cause environmental damage. Silver can do the same.
 
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