After living with the 1st sump I made ~ 20 years ago, decided to replace with a 2nd build to fix some issues with the 1st.
The issues with 1st:
1.) Incorrectly installed one set of baffles, where all 3 panels were seated on the floor, so water could only flow over all three. This created a lot of noise, salt spray/creep. Note: Never apply Weldon while on a conference call with work.
2.) The first sump had returns and drains on each end, and the skimmer in the middle along with rock, water change pump, auto top off ….
2nd Skimmer approach:
1.) All drains will empty into one end with the skimmer, and returns will be on the opposite end tied into a single DC Pump. The middle will be for a ~ refugium.
2.) Lower the height sides of the original, but make sure height is enough to contain all water in the event of a power failure/anti-siphon fails. Round off all edges and bring the sump more forward to ease cleaning out the skimmer.
3.) Match sump to fit the full length of area under tank (180 gal)
Construction:
1.) Picked up 0.25” , 4’ x 8’ sheet of cast acrylic from Piedmont in Marlboro. Had them cut it at 57”, as “cutting up” a full sheet can be a PIA on a table saw.
2.) Cut pieces to size (jointed edges), rounded key edges, and assembled with painters tape
3.) Applied Weldon 4. Note: Make sure sump is fully level and square to allow for complete “wicking” in the seams. Did not use pins, which I think is probably more critical with thicker acrylic.
The issues with 1st:
1.) Incorrectly installed one set of baffles, where all 3 panels were seated on the floor, so water could only flow over all three. This created a lot of noise, salt spray/creep. Note: Never apply Weldon while on a conference call with work.
2.) The first sump had returns and drains on each end, and the skimmer in the middle along with rock, water change pump, auto top off ….
2nd Skimmer approach:
1.) All drains will empty into one end with the skimmer, and returns will be on the opposite end tied into a single DC Pump. The middle will be for a ~ refugium.
2.) Lower the height sides of the original, but make sure height is enough to contain all water in the event of a power failure/anti-siphon fails. Round off all edges and bring the sump more forward to ease cleaning out the skimmer.
3.) Match sump to fit the full length of area under tank (180 gal)
Construction:
1.) Picked up 0.25” , 4’ x 8’ sheet of cast acrylic from Piedmont in Marlboro. Had them cut it at 57”, as “cutting up” a full sheet can be a PIA on a table saw.
2.) Cut pieces to size (jointed edges), rounded key edges, and assembled with painters tape
3.) Applied Weldon 4. Note: Make sure sump is fully level and square to allow for complete “wicking” in the seams. Did not use pins, which I think is probably more critical with thicker acrylic.
