Whats the next step?

[nunofs]

I would recommend adding an auto top-off system... it can be done reasonably inexpensivly (just make sure you understand any compromises regarding redundancy and safety and are willing to live with them), it helps keep the water params more stable (namely salinity) and it saves you from doing manual daily top-offs. Also, when you start having more calcium/alk demands, you can simply fill your top-off container with kalkwasser... instant kalkwasser delivery system!

Nuno

 

[jango]

I don't think there are any carbon's that don't have any phosphate's, but yes some are better than other's. Also the studie's did not show what or if anything is leached out in time. The studies in the first thread are done with clean water for 24 hr's.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=513251
http://www.netpets.org/fish/reference/thielbook/thielbook8i.html
http://strange70.tripod.com/strange.htm

 

[Deafasa]

I'll list the purchases I'm glad I made, in no particular order

refractometer (or however you spell it.) There is a link over on reef central on using table salt to calibrate it.

litermeter-basically a peristotle (see Jeff can't spell) pump that turn on and off slowly delivering a set amount of water to your tank. Pros-automates water top offs and can run 3 pumps. Cons-additional pumps are expensive and the pumps are a little loud.

neptune systems aquacontroller-uses X-10, temp probe, and ph probe. Pros- Always knowing temp and PH. Can automate lights and heater. Cons-X-10 devices are noisy due to the relay they use.

floating magnetic algae cleaning-Can quickly clean the front glass and when the inside and outside halves seperate, it floats to the top.

Hope that helps

 

[Moe_K]

I don't think there are any carbon's that don't have any phosphate's, but yes some are better than other's. Also the studie's did not show what or if anything is leached out in time. The studies in the first thread are done with clean water for 24 hr's.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=513251
http://www.netpets.org/fish/reference/thielbook/thielbook8i.html
http://strange70.tripod.com/strange.htm

I quickly read through Schiemer's and Harker's articles provided in the RC link above. Schiemer's results (with bolding I added):

With the exception of the Vortex powdered carbon, none of the carbons tested leached any measurable amounts of phosphates. This was a pleasant surprise. Just a few years ago a carbon that didn't leach phosphates was the exception, and now it appears to be the rule.

The ratio of carbon to water used in these tests was considerably more than one would use in a typical aquarium application. Therefore, phosphate leaching shouldn't be a concern when using the brands tested here. One word of caution: I noticed that some manufacturers have changed the type/size/composition of their carbons from what they had been selling in the past, so it pays to test your carbon occasionally for phosphate leaching if you notice any changes in the appearance of the carbon you normally use or if you switch brands.

Schiemer tested 17 types of carbon, and I'll grant it was written in 1997, but am I missing something?

 

[Nikkoli110]

My biggest issue with my last tank was make-up water. My water level (and salinity) were constantly going up and down and up and down, even if I topped off every day. When I set up my current tank, one of my main priorities was automating the top-off, and my corals were much much happier and grew faster in the new tank (other changes too, of course, but I think the stable salinity was a big part of it). Your new MH will cause a lot of evaporation, so I would concentrate on a auto top-off system. It can be as simple as a 5 gallon bucket with a small powerhead, and a pair of float switches from "RobboT". He mentioned a little while ago that he'd assemble float switches for anyone who wanted it for less than $10 (I think).

Nate

Does anyone have a pic of this? Is it as simple as it sounds? That would be great, def. what I need. I don't have a sump though, so is it as easy as putting a 5 gal bucket under my tank (or a 10 gallon aquarium, I have plenty floating around) and then just throw the pump in, add the float switches and BAM!? Sounds good if its that easy! I actually did already stop to get the ph for the bak pak, but John at Sea Creature said that the Rio worked better for the bak pak, and that was what he uses. Its working great now, glad to have that back up and running. Next on my list is a refractometer and ph monitor. Does anyone make ph monitor and salinity monitors in one? And are they accurate? What I would like is something I could either sit on my desk next to my tank or mount inside the stand.

 

[Reef55]

Not to hijack, but I have a pinpoint ph monitor with the power supply adapter. You'll need to buy a probe for it though. $30 for it, and I can bring it to the meeting this weekend if you want.

 

[Chris A.]

If Nikki doesn`t take the ph meter i will.LMK

 

[NateHanson]

Does anyone have a pic of this? Is it as simple as it sounds?

Yes, it is. There's a good auto top-off thread in the DIY forum where you can see pictures of RobboT's setup, as well as a few others. Rob offered to make more of his version and the price he mentioned is about $50 - basically the cost of the parts (not $10 as I recalled earlier - sorry rob!)

You can just put a tank/bucket in your stand. Drop in a powerhead with a hose up into your tank (securely hung over the rim). Hang float switches in your tank (you can use two redundant switches incase one fails closed), and attach the powerhead to the switches. It's pretty straightforward. There are of course certain pros and cons to this system (and all others) but all of that is discussed pretty well in the thread I linked.

 

[nunofs]

Nikki, check out http://autotopoff.com/products/DT1/index.htm ... this is a tank-mount double switch system, same price as the one Nate mentioned. I bought the sump-mount equivalent from them and am pretty happy with it... I wouldn't trust a single switch system myself, I'd always be worried about it getting stuck and overfilling the sump/tank.

Nate: Rob's pictures are gone from that thread, btw.

Nuno

 

[pisces5296]

I myself have Robbo T auto topoff and very happy with it.
pm him and he will explain to you everything you want to know.

 

[jango]

from the Thiel article,

What is the truth on phosphate leachings? All carbon leaches "some" phosphate. That is its nature. All carbon removes iodine as well so using too much of it will deplete your iodine and will add some PO4 to the tank. The better brands of carbon though leach so little phosphate that once it is diluted in the aquarium the actual levels will be so low that they will be well within the ranges recommended (low PO4 level e.g. around 0.03 ppm). There are no carbons that do not leach any phosphates in the tank. The answer is to use a high quality brand that leaches very very little PO4. You can test what amount is given off by the brand you use by adding 1 tsp to a gallon of water, letting it sit for about 30/45 minutes and then testing for phosphate-Albert J. Thiel

 

[Moe_K]

I saw that, but I noticed it lacked any kind of experimental evidence. I'm also thinking Thiel stopped writing articles a while back, and was wondering if his material is out-dated.
His test might be the key to empirical evidence required for our phosphate hating reefers.

 

[jango]

His test might be the key to empirical evidence required for our phosphate hating reefers.

I think you hit the nail on the head...