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Has anyone local mod-ed a nanostream?
- Thread starter JayM
- Start date
penguinsix
Josh
I plan on doing it to my 6025s if I don't like the flow I get from stock.
if you read the RC thread, there are about 5 different mods. Which one did you do? I am considering their 'full-blast' and 'wide flow' mods, but want to be careful about functionality.
I don't run a wave timer right now, and they're on 24/7. Just wondering if the mods made the kind of difference they were talking about, and how hard it is in real life to do......
I don't run a wave timer right now, and they're on 24/7. Just wondering if the mods made the kind of difference they were talking about, and how hard it is in real life to do......
grundig5
Missing Colorado...
Ah OK.
I did the wide flow mod (cutting the tube down at the end), and the initial mod that sparked the whole thing (grinding some material away in the inner shroud). Its a night and day difference, and for me, almost too much. My tank is only 24x24 and the mods are supposedly around 1100gph+, so positioning is very important (and I still have no sand in the front). I also did some mod where I took the outer cross piece that was cut off in the wide flow mod and grinded it down into a stopper. it is then held in place with glue and the screen thing. This way they always restart in the correct direction, although this is only important when I shut down to feed. Functionally, they have worked just fine, but the motors have been replaced three times prior to modding (not as a result of modding, a result of poor initial craftsmanship on Tunzes end). Assuming yours are already on the latest batch of motors from Tunze, then you should be all set. I would say work in increments, grind a bit off, try it, grind more, try it, etc. Worst comes to worst, a new shroud is $12.
I did the wide flow mod (cutting the tube down at the end), and the initial mod that sparked the whole thing (grinding some material away in the inner shroud). Its a night and day difference, and for me, almost too much. My tank is only 24x24 and the mods are supposedly around 1100gph+, so positioning is very important (and I still have no sand in the front). I also did some mod where I took the outer cross piece that was cut off in the wide flow mod and grinded it down into a stopper. it is then held in place with glue and the screen thing. This way they always restart in the correct direction, although this is only important when I shut down to feed. Functionally, they have worked just fine, but the motors have been replaced three times prior to modding (not as a result of modding, a result of poor initial craftsmanship on Tunzes end). Assuming yours are already on the latest batch of motors from Tunze, then you should be all set. I would say work in increments, grind a bit off, try it, grind more, try it, etc. Worst comes to worst, a new shroud is $12.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1025361&highlight=6025+mod
25 pages of reading; guess I gotta buy a dremel tomorrow
25 pages of reading; guess I gotta buy a dremel tomorrow
The possible issues are that the prop might not self-correct on startup and run in reverse.
If you ordered a new front cover (since that is the only thing being changed) it does not void your warranty.
I also think you need to do more than remove the shroud for a 400GPH increase.
I'm still going to try it
Ive read more pages and youre right about doing more but its not that much more. Cut a few slits in the "neck" of the housing and cut out the inside tunnel and thats about it. Im going to try it on my dads 25. Ill see how it works. I dont think im going to shorten the neck for a wider flow pattern but maybe since if I dont like it I can order a new front for short money.
I always thought the 25 mod dealt with moding the prop and shaft(which is why I didnt want to) but after see that thread it seems almost too simple. Thanks Jay for bringing it to light. Those guys on RC seem to have come up with a great idea and application.
I always thought the 25 mod dealt with moding the prop and shaft(which is why I didnt want to) but after see that thread it seems almost too simple. Thanks Jay for bringing it to light. Those guys on RC seem to have come up with a great idea and application.
OK so I went home and tried it out on the 25 I have (excuse the coraline). I used my dremel and cut out about 1/2" from the neck and then used a sanding bit to smooth it out. Put it back to get and put it in the tank to see a big difference. Now I didnt go as extreme as some of the RC people did but I didnt want too much flow. I have to say it did increase the flow alot but not to the amount of a 45 and thats becuase I didnt take allof the plastic out. Ill prob. do some more mods on it but for now I kind of like the amount its pushing out. Heres some pics:
Original
Original
jc9394
Non-member
You don't need a Dremel to do this mod. I pickup a Black and DEcker knock off one from the outlet few weeks ago to do this mod and it only cost me 20.
http://blackanddecker.com/ProductGuide/CategoryOverview.aspx?cPath=1496.1508
I highly recommend the wide flow mod, it pumps out more flow but it is a lot more gentle flow.
http://blackanddecker.com/ProductGuide/CategoryOverview.aspx?cPath=1496.1508
I highly recommend the wide flow mod, it pumps out more flow but it is a lot more gentle flow.
the wide flow mod probably would be good for a nano or a smaller tank. If youre trying to push 4' (like me) you might not want the flow to die out after 12" (or so).
Jay, jaymyoung did his mods on a dremel press and they came out beautifully. Good luck with the mod and keep us posted on how you like it.
Jay, jaymyoung did his mods on a dremel press and they came out beautifully. Good luck with the mod and keep us posted on how you like it.
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