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Kessil 360we's and anemones

Rhody

Non-member
I cant seem to keep any anemones alive in my display tank. My parameters are all where they should be and all i can attribute the problem to is the lighting. I moved the last rbta down to my sump in my basement and the nem recovered and is fine under a reefbreeders light i have growing my chaeto. My display tank consists of,

265 gal. 84L 24W 30D

4 kessil a360we 10 inch off surface
12 hour cycle starting from min setting to 65% for 4 hours and back down to min.

Maxspect 150 on pulse mode 8 sec on and off.

Tank has been running for 2 years. Mostly fowlr with some mushrooms and leathers.

Any insight will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
 
What % are you running the Kessil?
4 Kessil in such a big tank seems not enough for anemone even at 100%.
 
65% for four hours may not be enough, I realize you have a window of fair light on either side of the four hours but it doesn't seem enough to me.

Jim
 
I am struggling with my anemones since switching to LED, AI Hydra's from t-5's. I hope you figure it out and can share. I am running around 50% I would guess
 
I to am struggling with nems and my kessils I have them set to 35% max

What spectrum do you have them at?

Sent from the DeathStar on tapatalk
 
Too little light.
A Kessil 360we at 100% is about as good as a 175w metal halide or less.
Anemone need very strong lighting.
I run all my AI hydra at 100% max.
after all, LED manufactures over stated their light capacity in general. A rule of thumb is that LED is about 50% more efficient than metal halide. Kessil 360we is about 90w.
T-5 is more efficient than metal halide.
Kessil 360we is the least efficient compares to Hydra, Radion due to the multi-chip design.
In general, multi-chip LED suffers from efficiency issue over individual chips.
 
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The idea behind AI's new Hydra HD led is that you can drive the unit at its max capacity at all time while being able to adjust the spectrum to suit the coral need.
Such as drop down the white and red and divert the energy to blue channels.
If there is no need to drive the unit to max, Hyper Drive capacity is not useful.

According to US department of Energy, LED at its best is about 100 lumin per watt, t-5 is about 60 to 90 Lumins per watt, Halide is about 60 to 70 Lumin per watt.
 
I run two Kessil A360W and 4 t5s on 120G. I only run at 60% max intensity on the Kessils.
I am ramping the LEDs up and down. So max intensity of 50% to 60% is about 9 ours. T5s are on during this time also.
I also ramp color along same curve. Peaking at about 14K - 15K. In theory any way. (50% Kessil APEX fusion)
My BTA has done well under these lights. Just posted a pick in another thread on BTA and LEDs.
 
I've been keeping a gigantea under AI Hydra LEDs for over a year now with no issues, I run 2 of them on a DD150.
 
Let there be (enough) light! Yes long live metal halide.
According to MarineDepot, halide sales is up. The choice of halide is limited these days, but the winners have strong sales.
 
Im going to start raising the intensity 5% a week. I read somewhere on another forum to be careful with the intensity but what everyone here is saying makes sense. Only thing that doesnt in my situation is that the anemones would go down into my rocks before the started the downward spiral. It does make sense that the kessils wattage is lower thus should be set higher.
Thanks
Tom
 
Im curious, how long are people keeping the max intensity period per day. Ill stretch mine out if thats an issue.
Thanks,
Tom
 
Common BTA we keep in aquarium are from areas near water surface that receive full blast of sunlight, and obtains the majority of its energy from solar radiation via its symbiotic zooxanthellae.

My anemone tank receive 10 hr of full blast under metal halide
 
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I ramped up and held it at my max point for 4 hours before ramping back down.
 
Picture is my APEX fusion kessil intensity and color settings.
Shows ramp up and down along with peak intensity.
Blue line is the kessil color settings.

kessilfusion.JPG
 
It's a 120G display 48" x 24" x 24.
 
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