• ******* To read about the changes to the marketplace click here

Need advice on new reef tank

You had a typo, not sure what you mean by "feit to back". I'm not understanding what you're saying - if it's mounted to the back, wouldn't the flow be towards the tank front? Don't you want it coming from the sides?
corrected it erratic flow is good you do not want a flow never changing. I also use VCA random flow generators on my returns too.
 
I highly recommend finding someone else to do your install and service. It clearly sounds like they are a Fish tank company, not reef aquarists. And stuck about 25 years behind where the hobby is. Unfortunately most install/service companies do not have the experience or knowledge to do reef tanks like you are looking for.

And oh yeah, there are only two kinds of acrylic tanks. Ones with scratches and ones that don't have scratches yet.

We will only do acrylic when the application 100% calls for it. And NEVER in a reef.

♂️
I never understand how companies that have no clue get SO much business.
 
Just for a reference on flow, my 40 Breeder has a tunze 6095, 6055 at 60% and a icecap 4K gyre at 70%
 
Ok! I had a really good meeting with my installer this morning. I also talked to forum sponsor Kevin from All Things Aquatic, who will come out next week and also propose on the job.

There were a couple things he told me that were different from what I thought I'd do. I'm not questioning his experience, this guy knows his stuff. But what surprised me was:

* He rarely uses power heads for generating current, Instead, he uses two return lines from the sump to the tank, and positions those to generate the current in the tank.

* I thought if I had SPS corals I'd want a calcium reactor/doser (if that's what it's called...). He said they just manually add calcium.

* He doesn't believe in dipping coral, says it's bad for the coral. Instead, he is careful about where it comes from, and visually inspects it before using.

* They only use acrylic tanks. I said I was concerned about scratches when cleaning, but he said that if you stay on top of your cleaning that you won't get anything that requires the kind of scrubbing that could cause a scratch.

Thoughts?
I have an acrylic tank. Of course you have to scrub it. There are tools that do the job, but I’ve had bits of sand get under the magnetic scrubber and scratch the inside. When I bought it second hand I had to buff out tons of scratches.

Also, super glue is a common adhesive for corals onto rocks. Guess what happens when a drop of it accidentally touches the acrylic? It becomes one with the tank. They are both acrylic. Yay. Can’t scrape that stuff off.
Automation is a fun aspect to the hobby. It’s also critical for stability. You might not need it at first, but as the corals grow, it’s essential.
As far as flow goes… he’s not wrong. I’ve heard of that before, but it also requires a larger pump that is potentially more expensive and noisy. It would also require larger returns to move more water. It can be done, but you also limit yourself. Power heads and gyre pumps are tools, why not use them to make the system better?
If you agree with his philosophy, he might be your guy, but you should know that he seems closed minded, or at least stuck in his ways and not taking advantage of all the hobby has to offer
 
I highly recommend finding someone else to do your install and service. It clearly sounds like they are a Fish tank company, not reef aquarists. And stuck about 25 years behind where the hobby is. Unfortunately most install/service companies do not have the experience or knowledge to do reef tanks like you are looking for.

And oh yeah, there are only two kinds of acrylic tanks. Ones with scratches and ones that don't have scratches yet.

We will only do acrylic when the application 100% calls for it. And NEVER in a reef.

♂️
I never understand how companies that have no clue get SO much business.
I tried an emoji once too and got the same symbol.
 
Ok! I had a really good meeting with my installer this morning. I also talked to forum sponsor Kevin from All Things Aquatic, who will come out next week and also propose on the job.

There were a couple things he told me that were different from what I thought I'd do. I'm not questioning his experience, this guy knows his stuff. But what surprised me was:

* He rarely uses power heads for generating current, Instead, he uses two return lines from the sump to the tank, and positions those to generate the current in the tank.

* I thought if I had SPS corals I'd want a calcium reactor/doser (if that's what it's called...). He said they just manually add calcium.

* He doesn't believe in dipping coral, says it's bad for the coral. Instead, he is careful about where it comes from, and visually inspects it before using.

* They only use acrylic tanks. I said I was concerned about scratches when cleaning, but he said that if you stay on top of your cleaning that you won't get anything that requires the kind of scrubbing that could cause a scratch.

Thoughts?
Just for the record, as quite a few people have read this wrong, myself included. The bullet points are from the installer that came to his house, NOT Kevin from @All Things Aquatic
 
Something to think about which many do not the power consumption of a system if this size. 150G with A SUMP (NOT SURE IF THE SIZE), based on distance from the tank you could have (2-4) heaters a return pump, lighting, Skimmer, reactors, ect.. A tank of this size with equipment is going to be a substantial increase to your monthly electric bill. in top of your possibly hired maintenance contract so keep this in mind. You will also need A RODI system for making top off your system which I would recommend a higher end 1:1 or a 2:1 ratio unit to minimize system waste water you are dumping down the drain. (since you are committing to a high end installation) If the installer recommends topping off with conditioned tap water run away quickly! Just another thought I had.
 
Something to think about which many do not the power consumption of a system if this size. 150G with A SUMP (NOT SURE IF THE SIZE), based on distance from the tank you could have (2-4) heaters a return pump, lighting, Skimmer, reactors, ect.. A tank of this size with equipment is going to be a substantial increase to your monthly electric bill. in top of your possibly hired maintenance contract so keep this in mind. You will also need A RODI system for making top off your system which I would recommend a higher end 1:1 or a 2:1 ratio unit to minimize system waste water you are dumping down the drain. (since you are committing to a high end installation) If the installer recommends topping off with conditioned tap water run away quickly! Just another thought I had.
Yes, definitely an RODI system. That is what he recommended also.
 
Today, forum member @Zirky generously invited me into his home for a 3 hour tour of his reef tank, and an enlightening discussion of all things aquarical. His system is young, but very cool. One highlight is an iPad displaying the status of the Apex controller, which lifted up out of a table on an electrical motor, coming up under a model ship!

Thanks Joe, I learned a lot!
 
An additional suggestion: think about it in terms of setting up a computer. You have hardware and software. Right now, you need to get the right hardware—tank (I am a big fan of glass over acrylic), stand, pipes, sump, ATO, skimmer, lights, controller… Once that is all in place, then you move on to the software—rock, sand, corals, fish… You don’t need to use the same people for both. But you do probably need one source for the hardware, unless you are experienced enough to put it together for yourself.
 
Today, forum member @Zirky generously invited me into his home for a 3 hour tour of his reef tank, and an enlightening discussion of all things aquarical. His system is young, but very cool. One highlight is an iPad displaying the status of the Apex controller, which lifted up out of a table on an electrical motor, coming up under a model ship!
To hell with Covid!....PARTY AT @Zirky's place!....lol

I've got to ask, what kind of model ship? I'm building the San Juan Nepumuceno. Going blind/insane building cannons....hahaha!
 
Something to think about which many do not the power consumption of a system if this size. 150G with A SUMP (NOT SURE IF THE SIZE), based on distance from the tank you could have (2-4) heaters a return pump, lighting, Skimmer, reactors, ect.. A tank of this size with equipment is going to be a substantial increase to your monthly electric bill.
Not if done right.
Abyzz pumps push a long distance and don't use much electricity at all. And have the best warranty on any pump in this hobby.
If the temperature in the house stays stable at 75, heaters or chillers will hardley ever turn on.
LED lights dont cost that much to run compared to old school lighting.
Skimmers use DC motors now, so extremely low consumption there.
Any reactors or a sterilizer can be run off the return pump for efficiency.

I'm not saying its going to be cheap, but it costs drastically less to run a reef, especially a larger one now compared to 20 years ago.
If done right, you buy the right equipment to save you time and money, while giving you the results you aee looking for.
 
Not if done right.
Abyzz pumps push a long distance and don't use much electricity at all. And have the best warranty on any pump in this hobby.
If the temperature in the house stays stable at 75, heaters or chillers will hardley ever turn on.
LED lights dont cost that much to run compared to old school lighting.
Skimmers use DC motors now, so extremely low consumption there.
Any reactors or a sterilizer can be run off the return pump for efficiency.

I'm not saying its going to be cheap, but it costs drastically less to run a reef, especially a larger one now compared to 20 years ago.
If done right, you buy the right equipment to save you time and money, while giving you the results you aee looking for.
I agree B. Heaters turning on and off are the biggest electricity hog due to this is a resistive load. It is defiantly cheaper than 20 years ago That Abyzz pump you speak of is big $$ reefers dream return pump
 
That Abyzz pump you speak of is big $$ reefers dream return pump
Its the pump I sell the most. *and its the one I make the absolute least mark up on, unfortunately.
It cost up front, but the savings in electricity, and the peace of mind are literally priceless.
And it is the most silent pump I have ever used.

Well worth EVERY penny.
 
Not if done right.
Abyzz pumps push a long distance and don't use much electricity at all. And have the best warranty on any pump in this hobby.
If the temperature in the house stays stable at 75, heaters or chillers will hardley ever turn on.
LED lights dont cost that much to run compared to old school lighting.
Skimmers use DC motors now, so extremely low consumption there.
Any reactors or a sterilizer can be run off the return pump for efficiency.

I'm not saying its going to be cheap, but it costs drastically less to run a reef, especially a larger one now compared to 20 years ago.
If done right, you buy the right equipment to save you time and money, while giving you the results you aee looking for.
Dave didnt mention if his basement where the sump will be is heated and size of potential sump. This will be a big determining factor in heating. Can try to insulate the sump to help retain heat but I know in my system my basement stays about 58 degrees in the winter months so is a heat sink with about half my systems water down there.

And I would love to have an Abyzz return but just cant make myself pull the trigger on that yet.
 
The sump will be in a little room off my furnace room, so plenty warm in the winter. And pretty cool in the summer. That said, I will probably get a chiller and redundant heating. I don’t want to mess around with something, the failure of which could lead to a tank crash.
 
Back
Top