Reverse durso... Doing it wrong?

[afboundguy]

As many of you prob know I'm having problems quieting the tank since I put in a fuge/sump (thanks for everbodies advice for the overflow it's "quieter" but haven't had enough time to tinker with it)

Anyways someone told me about a reverse durso to help with the sounds in the fuge and I tried installing one but I'm still getting tons of water bubbles and gurgling in the fuge where the water empties from the over flow. I don't know if it's because I have a few 45 elbows in there that is hurting the operation of the reverse durso. So I whipped up a quick diagram in paint but heres the descriptions....

Overflow to a 45 elbow straight pipe to 45 elbow to straight to the reverse durso with a T in it and a pipe up and out. I have the water line halfway up the T pipe like the diagrams I've seen but it's not working...

If I changed it around so that right after the first 45 elbow I went into another 45 elbow so it's a straight shot down to a T with a pipe down and a 90 elbow where the air could vent out would that work better? Thanks again for all the help...

 

[rusty18]

The only times I have had issues with "flushing noises" and water level movement (is you water level changing in your overflow and or sump) it has been because of the hole in the durso cap (reverse or standard in overflow).
How big of a hole did you drill on the caps, is the hole the same size on both the in overflow and reverse durso?
The number of 90's and 45's shouldn't be much issue as long as the pipe diameter is ample for your flow.
Also is the y fitting you are using with the reverse a larger diameter than the pipe flowing from the tank?

If set up correctly I see no need for the addition of the T and extra air vent you mention in the last comment.

P.S. the pics you posted are blocked out by my firewall at work so sorry if you note any of this in the diagram.

 

[JohnK]

I agree with what Rusty said.

To me it sounds like you need to upsize the end parts of the reverse duroso. The pipe coming from the overflow, and the 45's should be fine. From there, you want it to go into the Side of a T fitting, with one end going straight down, and the other end striaght up. That T should be at least a size larger than the drain pipe. I usually run a 1" drain into 1.5 or 2" when using a reverse duroso.

Also, your correct that the T should be right near the water level in the sump, but the pipe going into the sump water shouldn't be submerged very far. I usually go for about 2-3" into the water.

You want the flow to get to that oversized T and then get to slow/settle down in the oversized parts. This allows the air to seperate and the water to flow relatively gently into the sump.

It also helps to put a cap on the top of the pipe coming up from the T (the air outlet), just drill a small hole in the top of it so the air can still get out easily. This will help to contain the noise inside the reverse duroso.

 

[afboundguy]

The only times I have had issues with "flushing noises" and water level movement (is you water level changing in your overflow and or sump) it has been because of the hole in the durso cap (reverse or standard in overflow).
QUOTE]

I got the level in the HOB overflow to stay level on the second construction of the stockman pipe. The main problem is in the sump...

To me it sounds like you need to upsize the end parts of the reverse duroso. The pipe coming from the overflow, and the 45's should be fine. From there, you want it to go into the Side of a T fitting, with one end going straight down, and the other end striaght up. That T should be at least a size larger than the drain pipe. I usually run a 1" drain into 1.5 or 2" when using a reverse duroso.

Also, your correct that the T should be right near the water level in the sump, but the pipe going into the sump water shouldn't be submerged very far. I usually go for about 2-3" into the water.

Just to clarify you're talking about the part after the T that goes into the water not the pipe from the overflow to the T correct?

You want the flow to get to that oversized T and then get to slow/settle down in the oversized parts. This allows the air to seperate and the water to flow relatively gently into the sump.

I will def try this out. I did get some 1.5" piping when I was going to try a durso before I realized no way it would fit in the HOB overflow

It also helps to put a cap on the top of the pipe coming up from the T (the air outlet), just drill a small hole in the top of it so the air can still get out easily. This will help to contain the noise inside the reverse duroso.

I didn't leave a cap on because it was overflowing some times but this is prob due to the small piping. I can def see how this would make a huge difference if the piping was larger. I'm going to try to do it with 1.5" piping tonight or tomorrow night....

Again thanks Rusty and John...

 

[rusty18]

Can you post a pic of your current reverse durso/sump set up?
What size return pump are you running?

If you use this http://www.reefcentral.com/calc/hlc2.php It will give you a good idea of the real gph and then this to get the min drain size http://www.reefcentral.com/calc/drain.php

Good luck, keep us posted. Let us know if you hit any other snags.

 

[afboundguy]

I'm using a quiet one 4000 (663gph) but I have a valve on it so it's throttled back much more because of the humming. I'd say I'm doing about 300-400 gph if I had to guess...

I'll see about snapping some pics tonight...

 

[rusty18]

With that return pump you should be ok with 1" pipe and 1.5" durso. I prefer the "sink plumbing" y's instead of a T but both will work. I feel that the Y gets less back flow and is less restrictive on the water going into the sump and in turn is easier to quiet.

 

[rusty18]

Side note, to stop the humming you can put the pump on a plastic sandwich baggie filed with sand in the sump to help dampen the noise.
If you have it throttled back that much have you considered a smaller pump that consumes less energy but will give you that same 300-400 gph run with no restriction? (Just a thought, I am always looking for ways to reduce the cost of my tanks)

 

[JohnK]

I agree with Rusty about the Y being better (but either a Y or a T will work fine).

Here's a quick drawing, does this answer your question?
("Just to clarify you're talking about the part after the T that goes into the water not the pipe from the overflow to the T correct?") The pipe I was talking about is a little long in the drawing and has the 45 deg end. I don't think the length of this makes a big difference, but it's something to experiment with if things aren't working smoothly.

 

[Behrmon]

Here is my old one, I had about 12 1/8" holes drilled on the top, I covered that with a large plastic fish bag to protect against spray.

 

[Behrmon]

I also cut a V wedge into the bottom just incase.

 

[mikenjo]

i had a 1in drain into a 1.5in durso and it still was noisy i changed it to a 2in
with a y instead of a t and it is silent here is a picture its the one on the left

 

[JohnK]

.........

 

[afboundguy]

Sweet thanks again everybody. I actually replaced the T to a 1.5 inch T and plumbing and the few mins I ran it it was much much quieter (was a leak somewhere else so I had to shut it off:shocked. If it's not better in the long run I'll have to swap out the T for a Y... I'll keep everybody updated and attempt to get pics... It's been a hectic week

 

[delta]

The bigger the reverse durso the better you want the air to be able to escape. Also I find thet have the Tee above the water line works best.