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RODI 0ppm but poor water quality

diverbh4

Swimmin With The Fishies
Hi all!

I have been running my RODI filters for around 1yr now and my TDS meter is still showing 0ppm. The issue here is I have been having algae issues in my tank for the past couple months and nothing has died or been introduced. (GHA and some cyano)

I have decreased the photo-period but that didn't take it all out. I have decreased feeding to a couple of times a week with no positive results. I have also moved the TDS meter to the pre-filter hose and it shows an actual number other than 0ppm so I think the instrument is still working.

Any ideas? Or should I just go ahead and change the filters?
 
What do your water parameters look like?
What test kit are you using?
What are you feeding?
 
I'll add,

How old are MH bulbs?
 
Phosphates are not part of your TDS. If you haven't changed your filters in a year I would say that is the problem. Your membrane is good for like 2 years but your other filters should be replaced every 6 months at least. Your DI resin should be changed when it changes color unless you are not using color changing DI resin then you should be changing it every 6 months or less. If you are making large amounts of water then you should change them more often.
 
What do your water parameters look like?
What test kit are you using?
What are you feeding?

I'll check on my parameters.
Using ELOS testers.
I am feeding pellets or frozen brine a 3-4 times a week (switch on/off with the two)

I'll add,

How old are MH bulbs?

About 9 months with a 4 hr photo period (was longer for a couple of months) - although I am replacing these in the next couple of weeks
 
All filters are 1yr old including sediment and carbon? I have had a couple of experiences with coral decline that I have traced back to my RODI even though my TDS readings are good. Could just be an issue with me or my water so I replace independent of TDS readings. Sediment gets replaced every 2 months, Matrix Carbon every 4, DI every 6 no matter the color (change) amount of the resin. RO is still up in the air. I will change every 2 years at least, maybe every 1 1/2 just for piece of mind. Filters are cheap.
 
I think ro prefilter and di changes are really dictated by how bad you well/town water is.
 
Phosphates are not part of your TDS. If you haven't changed your filters in a year I would say that is the problem. Your membrane is good for like 2 years but your other filters should be replaced every 6 months at least. Your DI resin should be changed when it changes color unless you are not using color changing DI resin then you should be changing it every 6 months or less. If you are making large amounts of water then you should change them more often.

I am not sure this is correct. Phosphates have lower conductivity, so low phosphates may read zero, but high phosphates would not.

Just test the water with a Hanna checker several times to cover the degree of error. And do the test correctly, because it is very easy to get false results if you don't do it right.

Nobody here has mentioned the rocks. Certain rocks can leach phosphate into the water...this is well known.

BRS pukani being the poster-child.
 
Get more snails.

I had the same problem and that solved the problem. No question asked.
 
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Nobody here has mentioned the rocks. Certain rocks can leach phosphate into the water...this is well known.

BRS pukani being the poster-child.

I was thinking that too but how long would they leach for? Seems like his tank running for a while.
 
I was thinking that too but how long would they leach for? Seems like his tank running for a while.

To quote someone else:

"It will continue to leech out until the concentration in the rock is less than the concentration in the water. The short answer is that there is no answer. It depends entirely on the particulars of the situation."
 
I had not changed my membrane in 3 years, sediment and carbon block in a year and DI in six months. My TDS started to drift up to 15-20. I started to get some algae. I bit the bullet and just bought everything. The algae is starting to go away. It is probably going to take a bit for the TDS that I was dumping into my tank to go away via water changes, carbon, etc.
 
I had not changed my membrane in 3 years, sediment and carbon block in a year and DI in six months. My TDS started to drift up to 15-20. I started to get some algae. I bit the bullet and just bought everything. The algae is starting to go away. It is probably going to take a bit for the TDS that I was dumping into my tank to go away via water changes, carbon, etc.

I am pretty sure my tank is in the same boat...everything was going great until I started to get algae problems a couple of months ago after about 1yr being fully setup. I've tried no lights, but the algae comes back after a while and nothing has died in 6 months (a wrasse died a couple weeks after introduction).
I had not changed any of the filters in my RODI since I got it about a yr ago...didn't know some of the membranes had shorter lifes. I thought that you could just change them all after 9-12 months.
 
carbon filters and sediment filters should be changed every 6 mths depending on usage. DI resin will color shift to inform you. These all protect the RO membrane and give the membrane longer life. If you use cheap higher micron prefilters then the particles make it through to the RO and deplete your RO and DI quicker then in-turn give you junk for water.
 
carbon filters and sediment filters should be changed every 6 mths depending on usage. DI resin will color shift to inform you. These all protect the RO membrane and give the membrane longer life. If you use cheap higher micron prefilters then the particles make it through to the RO and deplete your RO and DI quicker then in-turn give you junk for water.

Yup, learned my lesson. I issue is not that bad so I chalk it up to experience.
 
A good rule of thumb is to replace your sediment filter and carbon block after six months. A more precise way to maximize the usable life of these two filters is to use a pressure gauge to identify when pressure reaching the membrane starts to decline. This is your indication one or both of the filters is beginning to clog.

Also be cognizant of the chlorine capacity of the carbon block. A good 0.5 micron carbon block for example will remove much of the chlorine from 20,000 gallons of tap water presented at 1 gpm. Some original equipment suppliers commonly provide carbon cartridges rated at 2,000 to 6,000 gallons. Remember that all the water you process, both waste water and purified water, go through the carbon block.

Regarding your RO membrane and DI resin, use your total dissolved solids (TDS) meter to measure, record, and track the TDS (expressed in parts per million [ppm]) in three places: 1) tap water, 2) after the RO but before the DI, and 3) after the DI.

The TDS in your tap water will likely range from about 50 ppm to upwards of 1,000 ppm. Common readings are 100 to 400 ppm. So for sake of discussion, let's say your tap water reads 400 ppm. That means that for every million parts of water, you have 400 parts of dissolved solids. How do we go about getting that TDS reading down to somewhere near zero?

If you do some experimenting with your TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block (collectively called “prefilters” because the treat the water before it reaches the membrane) do very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm, you can measure the water at the “in” port on your RO housing and you'll see it is still approximately 400 ppm.

The RO membrane is really the workhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to a greater extent than others. For instance, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes have a rejection rate of 90% (i.e., they reject 90% of the dissolved solids in the feed water). So the purified water coming from your 100 gpd membrane would be about 40 ppm (a 90% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce purified water (a.k.a. “permeate”) more slowly, but have a higher rejection rate (96 to 98%). The lifespan of a RO membrane is dependent upon how much water you run through it, and how dirty the water is. Membranes can function well for a year, two years, or more. To test the membrane, measure the TDS in the water coming in to the membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane. Compare that to the membrane’s advertised rejection rate, and to the same reading you recorded when the membrane was new. Membranes also commonly produce purified water more slowly as their function declines.

After the RO membrane, water will flow to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the TDS in the RO water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or 1 ppm, you know that your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes people complain that their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is a malfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin “dirty” water. This will exhaust the resin quicker than would otherwise have been the case. Sometimes the problem is poor quality resin – remember that all resins are not created equal.

Additionally, don’t forget to sanitize the entire system at least once per year, and wash and lube your housing o-rings with food-grade silicone grease every filter change.

Russ
 
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