5 weeks in Hypo and I think I still have Ich

mvallee

Non-member
5 weeks into Hypo to treat for ich in a 29g Hospital tank maintaining 1.008 to 1.009 and my yellow tang develops what looks like a pimple on it's side, I am thinking ich is still alive ARGHH. I immediately rechecked my refractometer calibration with RO water and it is still right on so looks like I may have a more resistant strain or it could just be something else?
I will keep an eye on it but might just return to regular salinity and do the cupramine treatment at this point, I still have time as my DT is 6 out of 12 weeks running fallow to rid it of ich.
So disappointed and disgusted after the wipeout of all my fish but two, all the work of daily water testing and twice weekly water changes and 6 weeks later possibly right back to square one, I sure hope 12 weeks of running my DT fallow is going to be enough if the ich or whatever has survived this long in Hypo.
 
Good luck with that bro. I have gone through all that and gave up on getting rid of Ich (fallow tank for 3 months, Hypo and Cuprimine... :() in my tank... Just my opnion though.


Higor
 
Last edited:
Sometimes it's just a bubble or a grain of sand. What do you have for light on that QT tank? Sometimes a bright light can make all the difference in observing the fish.

If it turns out it's still infected I'd consider tank transfer before copper.
 
I have a decent LED light on it and definitely looked to be a bump in the skin not on it but keeping an eye on it to be sure.
I have read about tank transfer and have 2 40B tanks I was thinking about using just for tank transfer and when l want to add more fish once everything is ready again seems to be the best to get through QT and rid ich but I don't know between Ich and the Flukes I had seems like meds are the only sure fire way to introduce new fish at this point, I know I am just being negative just a bad day I guess looking at that big 180 running empty but a few inverts and now maybe Ich still, has me down.
 
My tank was devastated by ich and I took the "Tank Transfer Method" and could not be happier! Simple, easy and proven a far more effective means than hypo (due to different strains).
2 months in with a few extra TT's and no signs of anything in QT. Finishing my double round of Prazi Pro then 4 weeks of Cupramine. Display Tank June 22nd!!
 
My tank was devastated by ich and I took the "Tank Transfer Method" and could not be happier! Simple, easy and proven a far more effective means than hypo (due to different strains).
2 months in with a few extra TT's and no signs of anything in QT. Finishing my double round of Prazi Pro then 4 weeks of Cupramine. Display Tank June 22nd!!

If I read you right after TT and no signs of ich you are still going with Cupramine, taking no chances which is how I am feeling. I did the recommended two doses of Prazi while in Hypo, poor tang seemed to be darting around and really bothered and guessed correctly he had Flukes or something that Prazi took care of. I guess I will start setting up the tank transfer setup, ugh more water changes and no real way to setup sponges to get beneficial bacteria, can't seed them in the DT and the current QT may still have ICH how did you handle getting the beneficial bacteria in the tanks you were transferring to.
 
5 weeks into Hypo to treat for ich in a 29g Hospital tank maintaining 1.008 to 1.009 and my yellow tang develops what looks like a pimple on it's side, I am thinking ich is still alive ARGHH. I immediately rechecked my refractometer calibration with RO water and it is still right on so looks like I may have a more resistant strain or it could just be something else?
I will keep an eye on it but might just return to regular salinity and do the cupramine treatment at this point, I still have time as my DT is 6 out of 12 weeks running fallow to rid it of ich.
So disappointed and disgusted after the wipeout of all my fish but two, all the work of daily water testing and twice weekly water changes and 6 weeks later possibly right back to square one, I sure hope 12 weeks of running my DT fallow is going to be enough if the ich or whatever has survived this long in Hypo.


Keep an eye on that current spot. Either it will be there for a few days, then disappear (probably ick), or it won't disappear in a predictable time frame and you'll know it's NOT ick.
 
If I read you right after TT and no signs of ich you are still going with Cupramine, taking no chances which is how I am feeling. I did the recommended two doses of Prazi while in Hypo, poor tang seemed to be darting around and really bothered and guessed correctly he had Flukes or something that Prazi took care of. I guess I will start setting up the tank transfer setup, ugh more water changes and no real way to setup sponges to get beneficial bacteria, can't seed them in the DT and the current QT may still have ICH how did you handle getting the beneficial bacteria in the tanks you were transferring to.

With tank transfer you really don't have to worry about filtration since you only use the water for 3 days. It the same as doing a 100% water change every three days. You can use an ammonia neutralizer (Amquel or similar) if you want extra assurance that conditions are safe.
 
^ Agreed!
I never once detected any ammonia and I was using 2-20g tanks
 
Just read up on TT and sounds promising and looks like I am going to need to get some smaller tanks, 40b's would be too big for the amount of water changes, the salt would be quite costly and what I have left for fish is a small 2" longhorn cow fish and a small yellow tang so 40 gallons would be so overkill I have some cichlids growing out in a 20 gallon so I think I will move them to one of the 40's and use the 29 they are in now and the 20 for TT unless I can come across a cheap 20 gallon to just have 2, 20's :).

Sad part of all this is not sure I will be able to keep the yellow tang, I have heard they need to be the last fish added to a tank and he would basically be the first when this is all done. I will either need to maintain him in a separate tank for months while I populate my tank or rehome until ready to add tangs back in.
I am in the planning stages of moving my 55 Sump into basement and adding a 90 gallon tank inline for LiveRock and extra volume plus thinking being in the basement will help with keeping the 180DT cool in the summer so maybe I will just put the yellow tang in there we'll see. Just means I need to step up my game and get this going sooner rather than later.
 
Just read up on TT and sounds promising and looks like I am going to need to get some smaller tanks, 40b's would be too big for the amount of water changes, the salt would be quite costly and what I have left for fish is a small 2" longhorn cow fish and a small yellow tang so 40 gallons would be so overkill I have some cichlids growing out in a 20 gallon so I think I will move them to one of the 40's and use the 29 they are in now and the 20 for TT unless I can come across a cheap 20 gallon to just have 2, 20's :).

Sad part of all this is not sure I will be able to keep the yellow tang, I have heard they need to be the last fish added to a tank and he would basically be the first when this is all done. I will either need to maintain him in a separate tank for months while I populate my tank or rehome until ready to add tangs back in.
I am in the planning stages of moving my 55 Sump into basement and adding a 90 gallon tank inline for LiveRock and extra volume plus thinking being in the basement will help with keeping the 180DT cool in the summer so maybe I will just put the yellow tang in there we'll see. Just means I need to step up my game and get this going sooner rather than later.

I'm a newbie at this, so take my experience/advice with a grain of salt (or grain of ich! ha ha). However, I'm a voracious reader, and mostly lurk, but find there is a tremendous amount of great info on this and other boards. You often have to sort through the clutter, but generally can find a consenus of what will have the best chance of working for you from experienced fellow hobbyists.

I went through an ich outbreak and chose to go the hyposalinity route. I don't have the dates in front of me, but I recall I started in early January and my easy goal that my DT would be fully stocked by Easter so I could proudly display my new venture at Easter as I was hosting the family get together. Didn't make it! It was so disappointing every time I thought I could start the final count down clock and then a few days later I'd see one of my fish with a single or only a couple of white spots. Took a couple of months to where I was ich free and could start raising the salinity level back to normal.

Research has shown that of the many varieties of ich, several have been found resistant to hyposalinity. However, I believe these were specifically found off the coast of Taiwan, and the chances or having one of these probably remote.

My theory (and this is only my theory) is that the ich seems to survive longer than expected because in practice hyposalinity is not killing the all the ich every time the tomites hatch. When I dropped my salinity, for the first couple of days I noticed the SG would slightly increase the next day. I assumed this was because it took the several gallons of high SG water in the sand bed a while to equilibrate with hypo conditions. LR is also highly porous, and it would also take a while for this to equilibrate, I think much longer than the sand. For example, I've read you shouldn't use copper in a DT with LR, as the LR will continue to leach copper for a long, long time.

My theory (again only a theory) is that as the fish sleep in, or next to the LR (mine did), when the tomites hatch near where the fish sleep; 1) right at the rock the SG may be slightly higher as the LR is 'oozing' higher SG water; 2) the theront finds a host right away to attach to, so it is not exposed to hyposalinity long enough to kill it.

Bottom line is hypo treatment is probably going to work, it just is going to take longer than you expect. My DT includes a blue hippo (often referred to as an ich-magnet), but I have been ich free since I ended hypo. Like many things in this hobby, you might just need to give it more time.
 
Just read up on TT and sounds promising and looks like I am going to need to get some smaller tanks, 40b's would be too big for the amount of water changes, the salt would be quite costly and what I have left for fish is a small 2" longhorn cow fish and a small yellow tang so 40 gallons would be so overkill I have some cichlids growing out in a 20 gallon so I think I will move them to one of the 40's and use the 29 they are in now and the 20 for TT unless I can come across a cheap 20 gallon to just have 2, 20's :).

Sad part of all this is not sure I will be able to keep the yellow tang, I have heard they need to be the last fish added to a tank and he would basically be the first when this is all done. I will either need to maintain him in a separate tank for months while I populate my tank or rehome until ready to add tangs back in.
I am in the planning stages of moving my 55 Sump into basement and adding a 90 gallon tank inline for LiveRock and extra volume plus thinking being in the basement will help with keeping the 180DT cool in the summer so maybe I will just put the yellow tang in there we'll see. Just means I need to step up my game and get this going sooner rather than later.

I have the same concern about how I stock my tank, as my plans (flame angel last) have been affected by my whole ich treatment deal. However, there is good information on techniques on how to do this and break the territorial issues that leads to the advice of stocking certain fish last. I 've read about using mirrors, rearranging your layout, or moving the territorial fish to the sump for a time-out, so that you can add livestock to your tank and have everyone get along.
 
Just read up on TT and sounds promising and looks like I am going to need to get some smaller tanks, 40b's would be too big for the amount of water changes, the salt would be quite costly and what I have left for fish is a small 2" longhorn cow fish and a small yellow tang so 40 gallons would be so overkill I have some cichlids growing out in a 20 gallon so I think I will move them to one of the 40's and use the 29 they are in now and the 20 for TT unless I can come across a cheap 20 gallon to just have 2, 20's :).

Sad part of all this is not sure I will be able to keep the yellow tang, I have heard they need to be the last fish added to a tank and he would basically be the first when this is all done. I will either need to maintain him in a separate tank for months while I populate my tank or rehome until ready to add tangs back in.
I am in the planning stages of moving my 55 Sump into basement and adding a 90 gallon tank inline for LiveRock and extra volume plus thinking being in the basement will help with keeping the 180DT cool in the summer so maybe I will just put the yellow tang in there we'll see. Just means I need to step up my game and get this going sooner rather than later.

You can always just fill the 40breeders half way. Also it's not really that much expense in water, figure one 200G bucket of IO goes for as little as @ $35. Compare that to the cost of a bottle of cupramine and a fresh Copper test kit, plus an ammonia badge - and your in the same ballpark of cost for either treatment.
 
Still hoping not Ich, the lights were out this morning so I could not see but anxious to check it out tonight when lights are on.
I am running Hypo in a bare bottom Hospital tank other than some PVC and a few ceramic BIO rings I had pulled from the DT for BB when I first started them in Hypo. Tank did cycle but was fairly quick and daily water changes were enough to keep things under control.

I do think Tangs did me in, I should say adding tangs and not following proper procedure did me in, I added in a 3 day period a powder blue, yellow and Hawaii Naso Tang, yup crazy and that Naso Tang was by far the best fish I ever owned, unbelievable personality not shy at all super eater for the 2 weeks I had it then one day it did not come out and when it did it had little white dots almost a discoloration of skin like liver spots on a person with sort of a slime and died within 12 hours. I do plan on adding 2-3 tangs to my DT but this time TT and proper QT will be strictly followed.

I have read on some of the larger forums that Hypo is dropping out of favor due to the length of time and high failure rate either due to not maintaining proper SG, resistant strains or other unknown factors and reefers are favoring the TT method and finding higher levels of success.
I hope to be adding fish in small groups so plan on utilizing the TT and 4 week QT for a total of 6 weeks and feel good about this with everything I have read.

I really want to take this opportunity to add some soft corals to my DT while it is sitting here running empty but am not sure how I would go about that because it seems like I would need to follow the same QT/Fallow period to be safe, an anemone is my other REALLY WANT to have and would love to add one with no fish present so it could become well established but how could I qt one to be sure it did not have the tomont cysts on whatever it was attached to or even on it? so much to think about but the life that is coming out in the DT with no fish has me rethinking keeping it a FOWLR.
 
If you treat with Cupramine and go fallow for 12 weeks AND DO IT PROPERLY, this will work and you will have zero ich. I did this a year ago and have not had any recurrence. People that have recurrence either didn't do the procedure properly, or used cross-contaminated equipment. You need to have two completely different sets of equipment to have an effective quarantine system. Nothing should be shared.

People that worry about Cupramine have old information...old style copper sulfate was very poisonous and dangerous to use on fish, as the balance of the medicinal dose and lethal dose was quite delicate. It also shortened the life span of the fish even when used properly. Cupramine is a new formulation that has much wider latitude for error, and is much less harmful to the fish. You must use the SeaChem copper test when using Cupramine, as other kits test for other types of copper.

I personally thought my method was quite easy, with the hardest part being the waiting to re-stock the display tank. I have never tried the tank transfer method...it seems like a fairly safe method, but a lot of work, with a high degree of cross contamination risk, i.e. potentially unsuccessful.

The bottom-line is that you can UNEQUIVOCALLY have an ich-free tank. Anyone that says otherwise is just plain wrong...and that is a FACT :)
 
Back
Top