Need a second (or third or fourth) set of eyes

[nickyblase]

Just finished dry-fitting my drains and returns.

Pls see pics and let me know if I should change anything.

Here are the specs:

125G Perfecto w/corner overflows (1" openings for drain & return bulkheads)
plumbing: combination of 1" PVC and 1" Spaflex

There are two things that I'm uncertain of (related to the return line)-

First, the ball valve is close to the pump itself, but I wonder if I should have another one after the tee that goes to the far end (would that make for really uneven flow since the pump is almost directly below one (even though it has more elbows)?

Also, The pump is technically below the bulkhead, but the plumbing is horizontal until the input of the pump. Is this bad? I'm not sure how else I can configure it without raising the sump higher (which isn't impossible, but will make access into the sump kind of a pain).

Any insight is appreciated.

 

[rbike1331]

one pipe cooomig from the return that should be stright hes a bend to it from the tank this may put extra presure on the bulk head fitting and in time it may leak other than that looks great thiis is in pic 1 first pipe

 

[Aquadiva]

Laurie... if I am understanding the pics correctly:

1. you won't be able to remove the pump to clean it without draining at least the return section of the pump. I don't see a ball valve between the pump and the sump.

2. you won't be able to adjust the return flow to each of the, well, returns. If you place a ball valve on the right return between the two elbows, you can adjust the flow better. It may make for some turbulence in the return lines, though.

3. I wouldn't use a 'T' to split the return lines, I would use a 'y'. A lot less turbulance.

4. Finally, I learned the hard way to put unions right after the returns. If you screw up the plumbing, you can always redo it really easily.

 

[customclimates]

Nice advice aquadiva, I just deleted my post because apparently you can type a lot faster than me!

 

[nickyblase]

Awesome advice Linda. Thanks.

 

[delta]

I think you might want to change the plumbing on the pump you have the intake plumbed to the tank and the return to your sump.

The intake for the pump is on the front and the output is the one on the top

Edit adding
You might also want to make the plumbing attached to the pump spaflex to cut down on noise

I will take a pic of mine and post it if you would like

 

[delta]

Here is a pic of my skimmer pump, the intake has the ball valve on it.

If that is the MAk4 (PCX-40) the Tee in the return won't matter you will need the added head pressure to the pump. You definitely have more pump than you need there, I run a Mak4 from my basement to my 135

 

[nickyblase]

Awesome - thanks Greg. The pic helps. I have some of the clear flexible tubing. It's a lot more flexible IMO thank Spaflex.

Looks like I've got some work to do!

 

[delta]

I only use the flexible tubing for my skimmer due to the input fitting. If you have spa flex, I would recommend using that.

I also flood the intake of the pump using 1-1\2 plumbing. On the return I use 1" or 3\4"

 

[maurod]

I'd add in a ballvalve with a union before this pump. It will allow you to detach the pump without emptying the sump.

M.

 

[Dave McReeferson]

Awesome - thanks Greg. The pic helps. I have some of the clear flexible tubing. It's a lot more flexible IMO thank Spaflex.

Looks like I've got some work to do!

Bringing a large pot of water to just below boiling on the stove and using it to heat the spaflex allows you to shape it more easily, you can't be too crazy, but it certainly helps. I find holding it in the desired shape and running it under cold water after heating and shaping speeds the process along as well.

 

[nickyblase]

I'd add in a ballvalve with a union before this pump. It will allow you to detach the pump without emptying the sump.

M.

You're right Mauro - I was thinking about that too. I just need to go to NH to find some true union ball valves. I have yet to find a place in Maine that sells them (and the space is too tight to fit both separately).

What about the height of the sump as it relates to the pump plumbing? Will I need to raise the sump up, or will it work okay? The plumbing from sump to pump is horizontal until the elbow that brings it to the pump intake, which goes down. Should I be worried about that?

 

[nickyblase]

Bringing a large pot of water to just below boiling on the stove and using it to heat the spaflex allows you to shape it more easily, you can't be too crazy, but it certainly helps. I find holding it in the desired shape and running it under cold water after heating and shaping speeds the process along as well.

Thanks Dave -

I was thinking I might try to use a hairdryer, but hot water is a really good idea. Brings me back to my school days and fitting mouth guards!

 

[Scott]

What about the height of the sump as it relates to the pump plumbing? Will I need to raise the sump up, or will it work okay? The plumbing from sump to pump is horizontal until the elbow that brings it to the pump intake, which goes down. Should I be worried about that?

It looks ok, as long as water flows all the way to the pump, it should prime.

Worth noting again before you plug this thing in, as Greg said, it looks like you've got the pump in backwards.

You want the sump to go into the end of the pump and the part that aims up goes to the return lines.

When you do that, it'll actually simplify your plumbing drmatically. you'll eliminat what looks like 4 elbow connectors if you can turn the pump to give it a straight shot from the sump. Plus in that config, it'll be a downhill run from the sump to the pump as well.

 

[Salty Dog]

A carpeted stand - nice touch

 

[nickyblase]

It looks ok, as long as water flows all the way to the pump, it should prime.

Worth noting again before you plug this thing in, as Greg said, it looks like you've got the pump in backwards.

You want the sump to go into the end of the pump and the part that aims up goes to the return lines.

When you do that, it'll actually simplify your plumbing drmatically. you'll eliminat what looks like 4 elbow connectors if you can turn the pump to give it a straight shot from the sump. Plus in that config, it'll be a downhill run from the sump to the pump as well.

Doh!! I completely missed that Greg said that!

Thanks for the reminder.

 

[Aquaman_68]

sorry I'm late at reading this...