Options for bulkhead plumbing to pump?

[Triggerfish]

1 1/2" bulkhead to 3/4" pump input.
pump will be running parallel to sump so would need couple of 45's to make the turn.
anyone have an idea on the best option for this setup?
much appreciated....

 

[JohnK]

How much space do you have to work with?

 

[Tstone]

What kind of options are you looking for? Pumps?

Do you have any spaflex? That would elimnate the 45.

 

[Triggerfish]

plenty of room i believe as it will be running parallel along the stand as shown in pic.

basically looking for options on what fittings to use from bulkhead to pump.
should i make the turn 1 1/2" or reduce to 3/4" to come right into the input?
i'll be using the union ball valve unit from lowes.

just got done drilling the tank...whew. no issues..

 

[Tstone]

Keep it 1 1/2 as far as you can. reduce right at the pump for the most pressure

 

[Triggerfish]

ok,,thanks man..that's the info i was interested in..

 

[Tstone]

is this going into the basement? Sweet sump

 

[Triggerfish]

yes,,basement sump setup
can't wait to get this thing going...

 

[Tstone]

Which Iwaki is that?

 

[Triggerfish]

it's actually a blueline 1100
picked it up from testhead last night for a Seio, 99 gift card and some cash.

 

[marco67]

I would come out of the bulkhead with a 1 1/2" male adaptor to a 1 1/2" DWV street 90 then a Ball valve then a union (or a true union ball), use ~2" of spaflex between each to reduce pump noise, your final fitting would be a 3/4" fem adaptor. This would keep the intake flooded, give you a shut off and an easy removal for service (don't forget the union on the out side too).

 

[Tstone]

now your talkin.

 

[penguinsix]

I think the nut is on backwards.

 

[mloebl]

I just did a 1" all the way to a 3/4" reducer at the union ball valve that was 3/4" to the input of the mak4. I did use 1" clear tubing (I know it does narrow a bit on either end of the adapters), however after having an airbubble issue in the crappy little giant pump I have on another tank, I got paranoid and wanted to see what was going on.

For the return I immediately went to 1" at the output, then a 1" gate valve. I then used some of the flexible pvc for the rest as suggested and it's dead silent. The mag7 I was using to stir up the water as I was adding freshly mixed salt water to the sump was considerably louder. Flow seems to be fine as I still had to reduce it quite a bit so the 1.5" drain could keep up.

-Mike

 

[Scuba_Dave]

I bought some of the union ball valves from Lowes
Maybe I got a "bad" one, but it did not shut off properly - still allowed air to be drawn in when shut off

 

[Triggerfish]

sweet..thanks to all....

 

[nichols]

I bought some of the union ball valves from Lowes
Maybe I got a "bad" one, but it did not shut off properly - still allowed air to be drawn in when shut off

You should spend a little more money and get Spears valves. The ones from Lowes and H.D. bind up and are very hard to open and close in saltwater use.
You can get them at plumbing supply houses, pool/spa places or online. I have both valves on my system. Wish I had used all Spears.

 

[Triggerfish]

i also noticed they become hard to move after awhile.

 

[mloebl]

I bought some of the union ball valves from Lowes
Maybe I got a "bad" one, but it did not shut off properly - still allowed air to be drawn in when shut off

I bought all my union valves thru Savko, probably 7 or 8 between all the tanks and sumps, and no problems so far. I tried using valves from HD, and they are impossible to turn 1/2 the time.

-Mike

 

[Triggerfish]

the one i have on my return pump now from HD cannot be turned to shut off all the way. if it's forced the entire knob pops off..