yet another build thread (180 inwall)

[GaryDN]

looking good Chris

 

[cilyjr]

so i got the electrical box built

i am using 2 dedicated circuits 20 amp gfi

this is real temporary that wall will be gone in a couple weeks. so excuse the cords everywhere

 

[cilyjr]

they did not have face plates at lowes so i will need to get them somewhere else.

also i quick question. when i plugged the skimmer in to the new electrical the mag 5 pump did not start up. it made a few of the lights in the house flicker. wierd as this is on a brand new circuit. when i put my hand on the pump that was not running i got a little shock. the question is 1 why would the lights flicker 2 why did the gfi not pop (they tested properly)?

 

[cilyjr]

Looking good chris, can't wait to see this baby running, oh and i could take one of those nem's from ya as well, just set up a 33 long for softies and stuff so i got some room.

mike, when do ya wanna come get it?...sooner the better

 

[cilyjr]

Hey if you need help, I'm without a phone right now, if you PM me on here I should get it quick. Just remember to give me your number again because my phone is in pieces.

ok james i wont be doing anything until thursday. i would like to get the nem tank and the 10gallon off line to get some working room over there...

 

[ffsteve]

the pump impeller shaft may be stuck and produced a recurrent flow of electricity in to it's case(direct short) or a seal is leaking. and your breaker didn't reach enough resistace to trip. the reason why the lights flicker is because the draw of power from the unit your using, and the placement of the breaker. if the new breaker is on the same side as the light breaker and you have a big draw on that side your lights will dim. good luck.

 

[cilyjr]

i split the 2 breakers to the left and right of the pannel .i have a 200 amp service.

 

[Mr. Leemr]

Also have to make sure that the neutrals assosiated with those gfi loads are tied directly into the gfi breaker and not the common neutral bar inside the panel.

 

[cilyjr]

mike that are...neutral in the slot for neutral on the breaker then the line that was on the breaker goes to the neutral bar.

also the pumps seem to be running much quieter...is that me being crazy or could it be that having direct power is helping them run more efficient?

 

[GaryDN]

the way that cord was getting warm that means you were losing voltage to the pumps

 

[theone]

Do I see you using 15A receptacles with 20 A circuits?

If so, maybe thats why they are not working correctly.

 

[Mr. Leemr]

Chris you could have had some voltage drop from the cord, only because of legnth only would be able to tell with a meter. And 15A recepticals have nothing to do with anything at all use them all you want.

 

[cilyjr]

yes theone...i asked an electrician buddy before i bought (lizard fairy...inside joke for mr. leemr)

 

[cilyjr]

i would like to say that it is working fine...it was just one initial time when i plugged in the faulty pump that i had the problem

 

[cilyjr]

i have been thinking alot about the track for the lights. i want them to be able to slide both backward and forward. for ease of access from both the front and back. the back is not a problem as i can mount them on c rails for garage doors. the front however opens into the finished room so the rails are not an option. what i had thought about was mounting heavy duty 24 inch drawer sliders (these are able to carry alot of weight) to the wheels on the c rail. this would allow the entire lighting carriage to slide back in the rails but when the needed to come forward the drawer sliders would be able to extend....
what do you all think?

 

[cilyjr]

busy day today.
i took down the 20gallon long tank and 10 gallon fuge that was connected to the system (thanks to the members how stopped by and got stuff). i took the 20l and set it up independent so i can use it as a storage for some live rock...

i also put the new skimmer on the 90 just for kicks asm g3

and i got the stand built. i used this thread more or less but added some extra legs and center braces..

 

[theone]

Sounds like it should be OK. I wish I had made an opening for the front of my in-wall tank. I can only access it from 1 room.

I think you will need to think about what will happen to the slack of wire from the lights you will need to leave in order for it to slide. Maybe only a foot or so of wire, but where does it go, or how it will affect the opening and closing of the system.

i have been thinking alot about the track for the lights. i want them to be able to slide both backward and forward. for ease of access from both the front and back. the back is not a problem as i can mount them on c rails for garage doors. the front however opens into the finished room so the rails are not an option. what i had thought about was mounting heavy duty 24 inch drawer sliders (these are able to carry alot of weight) to the wheels on the c rail. this would allow the entire lighting carriage to slide back in the rails but when the needed to come forward the drawer sliders would be able to extend....
what do you all think?

 

[cilyjr]

good point theone about the wire... i will need to see where i will have room to mount the ballasts to figure that out i think and i will need to take down the wall before i can find a place for them

 

[theone]

Since I can only access it from one room, I changed my canopy so that I can lift the lights up, then lock in place, to have full access to the tank. The wires simply go up and down, with the slack following, running alongside the tank.

The lights are mounted to 1/8" face finished plywood. I used small machine screws with hex nuts and rubber spacers to secure the halides.

Granted, working on the front of the tank can be a little more difficult, but when looking at the tank, the only thing I see is the tank. No canopy or stand to take away from it. I have seen in-wall tanks with front openings for access. Unless you take the time to make sure the front opening is not too overbearing, it will look unbalanced.

 

[cilyjr]

up and down is not an option for me as the main duct for the forced hot air for the house is above the tank that is what is limiting height for me...its ben a bit of a PITA actually. the entire display will be lower then i want it.