Acrylic Sealent Weld On 3

Leroy

Leroy

Pres. NE Matchcover Club
The refugium, being built, is in the adhesive stage, using Weld On 3 in the workshop. But for some reason Murphy's law says it's going to spring a tiny pinhole leak here or there or both. Would it be advisable to run a bead of silicone at the seams just for a little extra precaution. I know silicone does not adhere acrylic as it would for glass, but I don't need any surprises right now, I've got enough on my plate. The build time would be slowed by a day or two. Also........ When it is up and running the lighting I'd need is one of the spiral bulbs from HD, 65 watt...........right. Overall it's 30 gallons and the inhabitable area is approx 20 gallons. I would need to consider depth, 17 inches. So up the wattage or a heavier duty bulb and clamp the light fixture further from the fuge?
 
If you are not confident with the seams, I would go back with weldon 16 not silicone. This is much thicker than the watery stuff you are using and can fill small gaps.
 
You will definately see if the seams are filled properly. The real dealio is the proper cut in the acrylic. If they are neat and true, the #3 or 4 will literally "wick" into the seam. You will see it go from light/white/almost opaque, to darker and crystal clear.

Okay.. I may be doing my site/podcast an injustice, but let me leak a little "snippet" of an upcoming podcast that shows this clearly...

BRB


Dave
 
In that video, you see, half way through the outside application, a "bubble" left behind. In this case (Liams Sump) Gustavo simply applied a second application from the inside of the seam. It's not on tape, but that bubble filled right up.

True cuts, proper application, good clamps (lightly applied) for good contact, and a proper contact time and curing, and you should be all set.

Dave
 
The weld-on #3 really makes a great looking joint when done properly but if you are more worried about being water tight than having a great looking sump then the weld-on 16 is the way to go. It might not have the flawless look of the #3 but it is great at filling any holes you may have left behind. I generally run a very thin fillet type bead after i have completed the weld-on #3 for the outer walls. The inner baffles I usually just use the #3 cause I am not too worried about a leak on those.
 
Just remember that the thicker the weld-on, the "harder" the cure. #16 really shrinks up quite a bit during the cure and that itself could cause problems with bubbling, stressing etc.

I used it in my tiny sump... but did as lawrant said, used it on the outside seam, and in a thin skin bead. Again, in a sump. I'd not use the stuff for display purposes unless it was a BIG honkin' tank that needed that much stronger a seam.

D
 
*L* okay... All I do is drink the beer and keep the camera as steady as possible (tougher as the beer drinking goes on). Gustavo and other folks have the talent...I'm just the Hobby Sociologist, preserving the historical practices of the salt heads :)

BUT... thanks for the kind words. This podcast will be out within a month. THOUGH.. Gustavo is starring in another that we may just post today... he's demonstrating the Sedra Pump Mesh Wheel Mod for the Euroreef Skimmer. I'll let you know when we get that one on the air.

Dave
 
OK..........now to go find some Weld On 16 to seal up the pinholes. #3 I found it on ebay. I'm not concerned about how pretty it looks, I want it to work
 
There are at least 2 places in boston that sell it - altec and Jfreeman IIRC. Check the DIY supplies sticky at the top of this fourm.

IME, if you cut and clamp the acrylic properly in the first place you'll never need the #16 at all. And as was said before, it's pretty obvious when you have flaws in the seams - then you can crack out the #16 if needed.

Use good materials (not that junk they sell at HD/Lowes), use a router for good cuts (table saw works, but the router is a better bet IMO) and be careful, you shouldn't have any problems.

Check out the info on this link if you haven't already seen it. Great walk through of acrylic basics.
http://www.melevsreef.com/


Edit, added;
Oh yea, if you do end up needing to touch up with the #16, don't over do it. The stuff shrinks a lot and ends up with a ton of bubbling. Big globs of it may be a bad thing.
 
there you go!

044295916608_3.jpg


Gustavo
 
Yeah....that'd be his clamps, his weld-on, his hands in the video :) Again...I just drink beer, commentate..and keep the camera rolling.

D
 
BTW... Sedra Pump Mod video (Staring your BRS Neo) has been posted on the Talking Reef. In case you are interested.

Dave
 
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