Looking for help with my 220G build

[Royal]

I wanted to reach out to the community, to find a vendor who sells a brace I can replace my marine land 220G. I’ve reached out to Custom aquariums and looked online for a company who might still be manufacturing a brace but so far no luck.

I was considering euro bracing the tank or even just ordering a whole new tank but for now I would like to try replacing the brace if possible. Any help would be appreciated. I was hoping maybe a company outside the states might still have a few options but I haven’t found any.

I know the marineland 220 was notorious for braces cracking, I already epoxy the cracks but in the back of my mind I have day/nightmares of the tank exploding.

Thanks in advance,
Jay

 

[NeverlosT]

So you have an existing full tank and want to brace it with an aftermarket brace? Is the current brace already failing?

 

[Royal]

So you have an existing full tank and want to brace it with an aftermarket brace? Is the current brace already failing?

It’s empty I’m interested in looking at all options the brace is cracking but i added epoxy

 

[NeverlosT]

hmmm, yeah I think the plastic gets brittle. Would be tough to epoxy it and just have it crack elsewhere. One option might be to remove the plastic rim and replace with a powdercoated stainless rim with brace. Any metal shop could fab one up. Or just have them make the brace (would just have to be made quite accurate to be effective).

You could remove existing rim and then eurobrace the tank, that is not rocket science and all you would need is a glass place to cut several pieces for you then silicone them in place and wait two weeks

 

[Royal]

hmmm, yeah I think the plastic gets brittle. Would be tough to epoxy it and just have it crack elsewhere. One option might be to remove the plastic rim and replace with a powdercoated stainless rim with brace. Any metal shop could fab one up. Or just have them make the brace (would just have to be made quite accurate to be effective).

You could remove existing rim and then eurobrace the tank, that is not rocket science and all you would need is a glass place to cut several pieces for you then silicone them in place and wait two weeks

I didn’t think about a metal shop, that’s worth looking into thank you. I don’t mind euro bracing it looks nicer IMO. I was hoping there might a link with replacement trims available. Euro brace it is

 

[NeverlosT]

I think if it was me I'd go the glass eurobrace route. Lots more strength that way. If you do, post pics so we can see the progress!
good luck!

 

[Royal]

Yeah good point

 

[Reefried]

I would also go with a glass euro brace

 

[WetPets]

Let me start by saying I am not trying to sell you a tank. I personally would not set up a Marineland tank. I have seen so many leak from bad silicone and they all eventually brake the braces like you have going on. If up do still want to use it check that the bottom seal is not changing color that is normally an indicator that the silicone is going bad.

As far as buying a new top brace aqueon(all glass) did sell them and someone cut themselves replacing it and sued them so it’s no longer available I have reached out to try to get them a few times since.

 

[Royal]

I appreciate that I’m not in a huge rush to set it up. I’m getting all the pieces together. I was gonna euro brace it and reseal it but i seen the horror stories lol talk about scared straight. I was getting quotes on a different tank I got the tank free so no loses there but loved the stand and canopy so I’ll probably just get a replacement tank for the stand 72x24x30 would be my preferred size tank glass or acrylic with a external overflow.

 

[WetPets]

I appreciate that I’m not in a huge rush to set it up. I’m getting all the pieces together. I was gonna euro brace it and reseal it but i seen the horror stories lol talk about scared straight. I was getting quotes on a different tank I got the tank free so no loses there but loved the stand and canopy so I’ll probably just get a replacement tank for the stand 72x24x30 would be my preferred size tank glass or acrylic with a external overflow.

You could get seapora with corner overflows or aqueon with the overflows that are set in a little bit. Or if you go custom you could do external overflow or centered. I was not trying to scare you but the tank is less expensive than the stand so if you keep the stand and get a new tank you are in good shape for a good price and you don’t have to do all that work on it.

 

[Royal]

You could get seapora with corner overflows or aqueon with the overflows that are set in a little bit. Or if you go custom you could do external overflow or centered. I was not trying to scare you but the tank is less expensive than the stand so if you keep the stand and get a new tank you are in good shape for a good price and you don’t have to do all that work on it.

Oh know I completely Understand the original owner had the same impression on the brace and I knew what I was signing up for with marine land.

Unfortunately they lost trust on bigger tanks in the hobby using perfecto tanks to build half a** tanks, Looks like both the tank and stand were built in 2013 with the manufacture date sticker still on it.

I believe it was a store display for a while the brace isn’t faded but the crack is noticeable the bottom corner cracked too . The seals look fresh still I believe it was just filled to test if it held water but since it’s so old and the brace not holding it is possible it could fail.

I would want an external overflow not a fan of the older overflows in the tank or corner overflows. I want my first big tank to be successful so I’m open to options I could always have a professional down the road euro and metal frame the tank and use it in my future fish room. For now I’m equipment focused.

 

[EddieG]

Jay,
I have done this before and it worked like magic. I have fixed two Aqueon/All-Glass tanks and they are still up and running with no issues. With Aqueon they use an upper and lower matching plastic frame. With Aquenon, the bottom frame is purely cosmetic and provides no structural stability. Aqueon silicones the side panels on top of the bottom panel, not sure how other brands construct their tanks, so be sure your brand glues the side panels on top of the bottom panel.
Plastic frames are a major Pain in the A$$ to get off, but worth the effort. Pretty sure top brace gets brittle from the UV rays and heat from aquarium lights.
Again, be sure of how your tank is constructed prior to starting this project!
Here is how I did it:

Flip tank over, bottom up. I first used a box cutter and slipped it between tank and frame to cut the silicone from the top as well as bottom edge of the frame.

Then I took a super thin flexible paint scraper/putty knife and kept digging blade up and down in a sawing motion until i could feel it hitting the plastic frame.

Keep wedging scraper from different angles while carefully lifting frame. Once it starts to release, you have won the battle

Now for the super difficult top frame.
What makes it difficult is that besides being brittle, the frame has a channel which the glass panels and silicone slide into, so it is glued on all three sides of the channel.
I tried the same method as bottom frame, however, because of the sides of the channel sit flush against glass could not get to the silicone bead in top of the channel.
I used a Fein tool with a plastic blade and actually cut the plastic frame in to two pieces. I started my cut where the middle support had broken off. I cut along the inside glass around the tank, With the inside part of the frame removed I was able to razor blade the silicone bead which made removal of frame easy. It was risky, but it worked out.
Because the bottom frame is decorative and no cross brace is needed, I was able to use surviving outer half of the top frame and it looks perfect.
A dremel tool could work, however, in my opinion, the Fein tool with its wider blade was a much safer option.
Contact me if you have any questions
Good luck

 

[Royal]

Jay,
I have done this before and it worked like magic. I have fixed two Aqueon/All-Glass tanks and they are still up and running with no issues. With Aqueon they use an upper and lower matching plastic frame. With Aquenon, the bottom frame is purely cosmetic and provides no structural stability. Aqueon silicones the side panels on top of the bottom panel, not sure how other brands construct their tanks, so be sure your brand glues the side panels on top of the bottom panel.
Plastic frames are a major Pain in the A$$ to get off, but worth the effort. Pretty sure top brace gets brittle from the UV rays and heat from aquarium lights.
Again, be sure of how your tank is constructed prior to starting this project!
Here is how I did it:

Flip tank over, bottom up. I first used a box cutter and slipped it between tank and frame to cut the silicone from the top as well as bottom edge of the frame.

Then I took a super thin flexible paint scraper/putty knife and kept digging blade up and down in a sawing motion until i could feel it hitting the plastic frame.

Keep wedging scraper from different angles while carefully lifting frame. Once it starts to release, you have won the battle

Now for the super difficult top frame.
What makes it difficult is that besides being brittle, the frame has a channel which the glass panels and silicone slide into, so it is glued on all three sides of the channel.
I tried the same method as bottom frame, however, because of the sides of the channel sit flush against glass could not get to the silicone bead in top of the channel.
I used a Fein tool with a plastic blade and actually cut the plastic frame in to two pieces. I started my cut where the middle support had broken off. I cut along the inside glass around the tank, With the inside part of the frame removed I was able to razor blade the silicone bead which made removal of frame easy. It was risky, but it worked out.
Because the bottom frame is decorative and no cross brace is needed, I was able to use surviving outer half of the top frame and it looks perfect.
A dremel tool could work, however, in my opinion, the Fein tool with its wider blade was a much safer option.
Contact me if you have any questions
Good luck

Thank you @EddieG that’s actually super helpful. I was considering adding a euro brace along with the brace itself figured it wouldn’t hurt redundancy the details on how to remove the frame are very helpful gives me hope I can actually do it within a reasonable timeframe .

Truthfully the build was gonna be on hold for at least until Feb I think I’ll have my house by then so setting up a big tank isn’t a priority but I want to get all the bells and whistles that should give me time to start the resealing and euro.

I’ll use the tank one way or another but I do think I’ll keep my options open for a replacement tank kinda liking the acrylic options

 

[EddieG]

Jay,
If you are converting to Eurobrace support frame, I would have your glass company design a center brace or two as part of the Eurobrace design upgrade. Would save you the PITA job of swapping your plastic frames and it will have the modern look

 

[Royal]

Jay,
If you are converting to Eurobrace support frame, I would have your glass company design a center brace or two as part of the Eurobrace design upgrade. Would save you the PITA job of swapping your plastic frames and it will have the modern look

I’m looking for a glass company in central mass I’m sure there’s at least one with a reputation nearby

 

[Royal]

Quick update figured I do a leak test on the trigger systems sump so far so good.

 

[EddieG]

Nice!!