Pump Size For Sump?

I can't comment on a brand of good one because I fabricated my own because of my setup.a lifter pump aka dosing pump.its basically a vacuum pump that will take the air out of your u tube to prevent loss of syphon.you drill a small hole in the top of the u tube and install an air line which goes to the pump
 
I have a 90G RR tank with drilled overflow and a 45G bow front w/HOB overflow box with 30G refugium (sump), and 30G closed loop deep sand bed. The 45G tank is built into the wall (flat side facing viewing room). I agree 100% that the drilled tank is best but I also believe only three items are required for a failsafe operation of the overflow box (and a good night's sleep).

Must have;
1. Sufficient volume in sump to handle back flow from tank when pump shuts off (or backflow preventer),
2, a lifter pump, and
3. a HC3000 High Water Shut-Off made by STAK Enterprises, Inc. (www.washerwatcher.com)

I have had many failures where the overflow box lost prime but I have never once had any water spill onto the floor.

If interested I can give you more details.
 
I went to the website http://www.glass-holes.com/ as suggested by another member and if my 45G HOB overflow tank wasn't setup for over a year and full of water I would use one of the "Glass-Holes.com" overflow systems. Wish I knew about them back when I set up my tank; however, I am still confident my current sytem is unlikely to fail due to the high water shut off switch that the circulation pump is plugged into but the "Glass-Holes.com" system would be much cheaper, less maintenance, and is a better way to go.
 
I have a 90G RR tank with drilled overflow and a 45G bow front w/HOB overflow box with 30G refugium (sump), and 30G closed loop deep sand bed. The 45G tank is built into the wall (flat side facing viewing room). I agree 100% that the drilled tank is best but I also believe only three items are required for a failsafe operation of the overflow box (and a good night's sleep).

Must have;
1. Sufficient volume in sump to handle back flow from tank when pump shuts off (or backflow preventer),
2, a lifter pump, and
3. a HC3000 High Water Shut-Off made by STAK Enterprises, Inc. (www.washerwatcher.com)

I have had many failures where the overflow box lost prime but I have never once had any water spill onto the floor.

If interested I can give you more details.
Thanks for the info i appreciate it. So if i were to buy a kit from glass holes dot com and have my tank drilled so its reef ready i wouldnt need to do any of these things correct? I might just do that lol its a tough decision but drilling the tank seems like the best idea now
 
Would still need #1 to handle the back flow that would syphon from the main tank into the sump during a power failure which would be determined by the placement of the dischage outlet in the main tank. Should only need a couple inches of headspace in the sump at most, just don't place the discharge in the main tank too deep. Make sure the glass is not tempered, I believe "Glass-Holes.com" identifies which panel may be tempered for various tank makers and sizes on their website. Good Luck
 
Would still need #1 to handle the back flow that would syphon from the main tank into the sump during a power failure which would be determined by the placement of the dischage outlet in the main tank. Should only need a couple inches of headspace in the sump at most, just don't place the discharge in the main tank too deep. Make sure the glass is not tempered, I believe "Glass-Holes.com" identifies which panel may be tempered for various tank makers and sizes on their website. Good Luck
Ok thanks ya i know its not tempered
 
Does the type of powerhead matter? I have two Korlia 750 (which is 20x the gallons in the tank) and it seems like the fish get pushed around by the powerheads when they get close to it. Do some powerheads distribute the water more so it isn't unidirectional?
 
Does the type of powerhead matter? I have two Korlia 750 (which is 20x the gallons in the tank) and it seems like the fish get pushed around by the powerheads when they get close to it. Do some powerheads distribute the water more so it isn't unidirectional?

Thats a little bit off topic but yeah i've seen powerheads that do that, im pretty sure lots of them do, and can be adjusted.
 
So i just called my LFS (tropical Isle Aquarium in framingham, MA) and they said a whopping $30 to drill the whole... i am not cool with that lol. I am going to grab a kit from glass-holes and do it myself, i have a drill with a clutch for adjustable speeds and their site does a great job with instructions. I would honestly take a 75% chance of me breaking my tank and a 25% chance of success than pay that, just based on the fact that its rediculously and unjustifiably expensive, plus i have to lug my tank all the way their and back. Wish me luck guys!
 
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